I emailed Steve - he specialises in movement and technique....
Once I have done the session with Szymon I will repost here again and outline what went on - maybe it might be useful to somebody? Hopefully later on in the week?
I'm guessing that's a London rate Nibs, rather than a UK one. It's more like £30 an hour round here...
Why would a client send a coach a proposed training plan?
There's no point closing the stable door now the horse has bolted maybe you should have asked these questions first?Tho I must say having a coach for one session is just bizarre, you're wanting to be coached you're not going to come out of the session with an elixir. That's not a go at you either jfdm
It sounds like you had a shit coach.Most people will have some basic flaws in technique (mine is I'm fat and weak) standing behind them watching should, for an experienced and able coach allow them to identify the weakness and explain them to the client, and show via a series of short video clips what they're doing poorly and then when they get it right.Once the client understands one flaw they can go away and practice this on their own for review at the next session.It sounds like your 'coach' has shit technique himself.
The other thing is what kind of training do coaches have?Is there a nationally recognised programme for coach development?The BMC or some other organisation, that coaches could be affiliated to?If not anybody could set themselves up as a climbing coach?Maybe I could set myself up as a coach?
I didn't want to be too honest with my feedback incase he got the hump.It may be that we didn't click? Sometimes with the best will in the world an all!
Coaching in climbing is relatively new. There has been a proliferation of late, clearly they aren't all equal.
If you're looking for more of a physical training plan, may I suggest:Team of 2 training They're not local but they are well respected coaches, and generally know thier stuff.Otehrwise, pick up Gimme Craft, Self Coached Climber, 9 out 10, and Rock Climbers Training Manual and read them all.
I had a group coaching session with about 50 other people for about an hour. It was free, it was more beneficial than the session I had yesterday, even though I was one of fifty.
jfdm, sorry to read you had a disappointing session. For the future, bear in mind that for 60 Pounds a day you can come to my house, stay in my spare room, get training sessions at my board and if you do well also some free pizza for dinner...