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Who ruined your redpoint? (Read 7294 times)

shark

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Who ruined your redpoint?
October 15, 2014, 06:51:11 pm
Top blog post title ever goes to Jules Littlefair for Bear Grylls Ruined My Redpoint

I remember Squawk being Squawk ruined one of my attempts on Cry of Despair back in the day and Lucy Creamer questioning the third bolt being pre-clipped as I was about to set off on the Oak didn't help but I'm sure there are some better stories out there...

tomtom

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#1 Re: Who ruined your redpoint?
October 15, 2014, 06:59:58 pm
I don't do ropes so no-ones every ruined a redpoint of mine :)

However, whilst doing an alpine circuit in Font, I once ruined a couples coitus by topping out some horrible crack (fnarr fnarr) right next to them...

webbo

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#2 Re: Who ruined your redpoint?
October 15, 2014, 08:07:11 pm
I had one ruined by a belayer who said they could use a GriGri but when I went for a clip they jammed it and off I came.

fatdoc

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#3 Re: Who ruined your redpoint?
October 15, 2014, 08:17:14 pm
Did you legally pre clip the 3rd on the oak?

If so fair play!!

I was once asked to leave LPT when on bad bad boy... Jerry could see me out of the corner of his eye when tryin LA, he said I put him off...

Bizarrely... I obliged.

Doylo

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#4 Re: Who ruined your redpoint?
October 15, 2014, 08:19:32 pm
My old man has to clean off any vegetation he encounters on any route (even if it means sacrificing his clean ascent). He went to town on the route next to mine and a load of mud went onto my holds.  :chair:

Doylo

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#5 Re: Who ruined your redpoint?
October 15, 2014, 08:20:08 pm
Did you legally pre clip the 3rd on the oak?

If so fair play!!

I was once asked to leave LPT when on bad bad boy... Jerry could see me out of the corner of his eye when tryin LA, he said I put him off...

Bizarrely... I obliged.

You should oblige when your king issues a command  ;)

nai

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#6 Re: Who ruined your redpoint?
October 15, 2014, 08:24:37 pm
Moat earlier this year, mate sets off on Moatorhead redpoint, another party there are having a conversation at full volume which involves never pausing for breath.  He made it to the rest then waited for a lull that never came, went for it but got to the crux and just dropped off unable to concentrate, to be fair it was hard just belaying.

Same mate at Tor last week, having struggled with Indecent for a few sessions it all clicks into place and he finds himself at the belay whooping and screaming, Mina falls off Mecca Extension on a redpoint attempt.....

 :devangel:

Wood FT

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#7 Re: Who ruined your redpoint?
October 15, 2014, 09:45:15 pm
Did you legally pre clip the 3rd on the oak?

If so fair play!!

I was once asked to leave LPT when on bad bad boy... Jerry could see me out of the corner of his eye when tryin LA, he said I put him off...

Bizarrely... I obliged.

Course you obliged!

peewee

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#8 Re: Who ruined your redpoint?
October 15, 2014, 11:05:25 pm
I had one of my attempts on Pilgrim thwarted by a raft of supercars coming past the cave, the pinnacle was an F40 roaring past as i matched the flake falling off soon after, didn't even get to see it, heard it for the next 2 miles around the Orme though.

Paul B

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#9 Re: Who ruined your redpoint?
October 16, 2014, 07:19:21 am
The first time I got through the crux on RnP (which I was finding very stretched), I carried on up until the rising ramp line where the climbing eases and asked for slack to clip.

Nat misheard me (thinking take) and literally ripped me off the route. There was a momentary pause where I resisted.

This then happened again.

Luke Owens

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#10 Re: Who ruined your redpoint?
October 16, 2014, 07:59:21 am
My old man has to clean off any vegetation he encounters on any route (even if it means sacrificing his clean ascent). He went to town on the route next to mine and a load of mud went onto my holds.  :chair:

I remember holding the rope for your old man while he proceeded to garden some route for half an hour. Me and all my gear were covered in mud/plants/choss, haha.

:off:
« Last Edit: October 16, 2014, 08:04:42 am by Luke Owens »

cowboyhat

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#11 Re: Who ruined your redpoint?
October 16, 2014, 02:01:06 pm
Stone must have had hundreds of redpoints ruined by innocent bystanders accidentally offering encouragement.

tomtom

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#12 Re: Who ruined your redpoint?
October 16, 2014, 02:09:10 pm
Stone must have had hundreds of redpoints ruined by innocent bystanders accidentally offering encouragement.

:D

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#13 Re: Who ruined your redpoint?
October 16, 2014, 02:25:40 pm
A very mischievous house martin ruin a redpoint of Urgent Action for me once. It had a nest just above a crimp on the crux. To keep the hold clean I had stuffed a tissue in it, which would duly got shat on, I would then whip this away prior to doing the move. Except this time the little bastard stuck its back end out of the nest and crapped on the hold the instant I removed the tissue.  :shit:  :furious:

andy popp

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#14 Re: Who ruined your redpoint?
October 16, 2014, 02:40:12 pm
On a kind of related note I don't know how people do dangerous stuff with batteries of film crews and photographers. The cacophony of camera shutters going off as Sam Whittaker does Appointment with Death is ridiculous. As already reported here I told Neil Foster and Glenn Sutcliffe to 'fuck right off' when they appeared just as I was about to do Slab and Crack.

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#15 Re: Who ruined your redpoint?
October 16, 2014, 02:57:59 pm
You lot are all too attention sensitive. Try spending a bit of time climbing with a group of constantly heckling scousers to improve your inability to focus.


JohnM

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#16 Re: Who ruined your redpoint?
October 16, 2014, 03:05:58 pm
Fortunately only a nearly ruined redpoint but I was near the end of the run out top half of a headpoint of My Piano.  I had completely forgotten what I was supposed to be doing up there and had started to panic and get really sweaty.  Breathing heavily, I waited, trying to refocus and get my breathing under control.  Then this walker started shouting "Oi mate, are you resting on the rope?". I ignored he but him kept shouting "Mate, mate, mate!  You hanging on with your hands or resting on the rope?"  I just wanted him to go away but him kept blabbing on.  Eventually, I couldn't hang around any longer and sketched way to the top over gripping on everything!

Wood FT

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#17 Re: Who ruined your redpoint?
October 16, 2014, 03:25:06 pm
You lot are all too attention sensitive. Try spending a bit of time climbing with a group of constantly heckling scousers to improve your inability to focus.

If I don't get heckled then it makes me feel uneasy, like I'm in danger.

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#18 Re: Who ruined your redpoint?
October 16, 2014, 03:31:42 pm
Only a "nearly ruined" one, but on Voodoo at Claret I arrived at the big flake hold before the final section and crammed the fingers of both hands behind it ignoring the strange chirping sound. Only to nearly fall off when a baby bird pecked a fingertip, leaving a very neat triangular notch out of the hard skin.

I have no idea how the mother got behind there to lay an egg, as the crack around the flake is only a few cm wide.

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#19 Re: Who ruined your redpoint?
October 16, 2014, 07:33:09 pm
My mate was at the Tor once and this guy's kids were messing about at the base. They weren't really bothering anyone but when the Dad exhorted 'pleeease be quiet, Daddy's trying to climb!' my mate's redpoint ended in a fit of giggles.

Doylo

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#20 Re: Who ruined your redpoint?
October 16, 2014, 08:17:59 pm
My mate was at the Tor once and this guy's kids were messing about at the base. They weren't really bothering anyone but when the Dad exhorted 'pleeease be quiet, Daddy's trying to climb!' my mate's redpoint ended in a fit of giggles.

I've heard that story somewhere before. Think I know who 'daddy'  was.  :smart:

webbo

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#21 Re: Who ruined your redpoint?
October 16, 2014, 09:10:24 pm
Although it wasn't redpointing I had several failures to link problems at Brimham when my daughter was a toddler by her repeated cries of " dad will you buy me a sausage roll" usually mid crux.

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#22 Re: Who ruined your redpoint?
October 17, 2014, 11:03:40 pm
I had a personal best onsight ruined by a non-climber ex-gf. Got through the pumpy first half to a good rest before the obvious crux: a committing move off reasonable hands and a poor high foot. After extensive shaking out and positive self talk, at the exact moment that I commit to going for the move she yells up a full-of-concern "don't fall off!". In the ensuing lapse in concentration my foot blows off the hold; and of course I pull straight back on and send the rest of the route.


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Footwork

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#23 Re: Who ruined your redpoint?
October 18, 2014, 11:37:19 am
I'm very capable of ruining my own redpoints. However, I usually go bouldering with my mate Sam and he enjoys singing really shit tunes. He started singing 'Freeeeeee Nelson Mandela' when I was on the keel boulder. I had to tell him to shut up. Sometimes it's funny, but when you're trying really hard and focus is key it's incredibly frustrating!

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#24 Re: Who ruined your redpoint?
October 18, 2014, 12:13:07 pm
Good song that

 

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