[tomtom]

M: Work

T: Work

W:  Grubes came by on his way back from Gloucester and we went to Harmers - then Helsby hill top. Lots of classic easier problems. Good work out until it started to get too hot by 12:30 ish..

Th: Popped over to to Helsby in the Woods as felt like getting an hours session in over the afternoon.. worked the reverse of Artful Dodging (7B) got nearly all the moves - felt much stronger on it that previous weeks/attempts

Fr: Weekend in a swanky hotel in Bowness.. got there about 2, quick hot tub - then left MrsTT to read a book in the sun and snuck off to Kentmere.. Really good little session in little font, Got frustrated by Middle Earth - really enjoyed Negative Reality Inversion despite the slopers being a little greasy in the sun... V.Soft touch for V6 - felt like 6B/+ to me.. still who cares, fantastic climbing.. Back to Hot Tub and dinner

Sa: Walk up near Hawkshead somewhere... 7 course taster menu :D

Su: Managed to persuade MrsTT that a little 'potter' up Kentmere would be nice - and set about Middle Earth etc.. again.. got close - but ran out of steam/skin.. Snatchy sit starts are not my speciality.. so good to work a weakness.. gave up after an hour and headed back...

[Muenchener]

STG (Autumn): 7a redpoint: Edelbitter, Konstein.
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl West Face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

M: Finished Beastmaker scaffolding project; a few test hangs
T: Inaugural home Beastmaker session. 10 sets of Barrows Protocol 5 x 5 on, 10 off. Warmed up as cautiously as possible with  sets of 20 x 20kg finger curls and a couple of sets really easy hangs on jugs.
W:
T: Wall, Thalkirchen. You win some, you lose some. An hour's desultory bouldering as warm up for a spectacularly weak campusing session.
F:
S: Sport climbing, Sudelfeld, Bavarian Alps. A pleasant and moderately successful day, the highlight of which was a 6b+ named "So Scary". There was a clue in the name, as I discovered when my first attempt ended with meeting my belayer about a metre from the ground. Having thus established that it was actually ok, I got it second go.
S. Sport climbing, Pleitewändl, Bavarian Alps. Much hiking about in the woods in the rain looking for dry rock; eventually found a very nice 6c that wasn't too damp. Tried it twice between showers, one-hanged it second go. Then it really rained. Bit of a yyfy day on several counts: decided to go out and look for dry rock despite a dismal weather forecast, when it would have been easy to have a lie-in then go to the wall. Close to success second go on an overhanging pumpy 6c, when power endurance is normally very much not my specialist subject. And first visit to a new crag that is closer to home than the 'jura and turns out to be excellent. Will definitely be going back there, and not just because I have a project.

[mindfull]

Lazy week. Not much energy.

MO:
- stretching
- bodyweight: planks-pullups-pushups-dips
- weight: biceps-triceps-wrists-shoulders-chest-squats

TU-FR:
Nothing altogether.

SA:
Some tai chi.

SU:
Climbing gym:
- 10 problems progressive more difficult to V5
- ARC: easy traverse

[kelvin]

Thanks tomtom

Good to see you have the frame completed Muench - those fingers will be strong for Wales next year!

Turns out that I had genuine food poisoning a couple of days before I went to Curbar. Combined with Horsefly bites and an allergic reaction to them, it's been a miserable week and a bit. The antibiotics have done their job the last few days mind and I finally made it into work today. It's been grim but looking back, I'm not surprised I climbed bad last week.

Report - Nothing. Zilch. For the first time in well over three years, I've done nothing. Not a brisk walk, no squats, nowt in fact. I'm not gonna beat myself up about it tho.

So. Gotta make a proper training plan this week as it's almost a year exactly till I head off to Spain for six months. I'm thinking power, power, power and weightloss mostly, with all round upper body strengthening as I'm naturally very weak. Any advice happily taken on board.

Firstly tho is Oct and I feel I need a month of endurance training, as I've hardly climbed the last few months and hopefully that will set me up for the grit season.

[Muenchener]

almost a year exactly till I head off to Spain for six months.

So that's definite now? Cool, congratulations. I'm sure the big boys will be along in due course with training advice.

[tomtom]

Sounds grim Kelvin... Glad the AB's hae sorted it out... I've had a couple of leg swelling up things from random bites and its not great...

[fried]

Mon - Nothing
Tues - Planned to climb but too tired, couldn't be bothered spending 2h crossing Paris.
Wed - Nothing
Thursday - Indoor, nice session, finger almost but not quite back to normal, avoid a few sharp pulls on the left hand. Do a lot of volume.
Fri - nowt
Saturday - I have a 50th birthday in the evening in some southern Parisian suburb, the missus plus friend are helping set stuff up. I have a pass to climb as long as I'm back by 6.30 . I drop the girls off at 3.30, then spend far too long stuck in traffic/ lost. Arrive at Roche aux Sabots at 4.30. Rush some yellows, repeat some blues, look at my watch, it's time to leave. Was it worth it? Hell, yes!

Sunday - Birthday turns into a barbecue which I cook. Noone complains about English cooking skills. A success. At some point I have to stop drinking, but then I'm going to have a really bad hangover, usual weekend do dilemma.

Nothing done on the pull-up front, see how the finger is next week.

[Muenchener]

I've had a couple of leg swelling up things from random bites and its not great...

Happened to my son last week too. Wasp sting on his toe on Saturday, foot like a rugby ball on Sunday. (Wasp stings have never bothered me much, I blame his mother)

[kelvin]

almost a year exactly till I head off to Spain for six months.

So that's definite now? Cool, congratulations. I'm sure the big boys will be along in due course with training advice.

As definite as can be - gotta rent the house but one of my lodgers is probably gonna take it on and the other lodger is coming to Spain 

Planning on taking 18 months out. Two stints in Spain and a summer in North Wales sandwiched in between.



First thing is to start looking for a MWB Fiat Ducato.

[shark]

11.8-10

M. Eve. Fingerboard. No gains. Again. Going to have a rest from this.
T. Day. Systems board. A few power moves then PE work. Better than last session but still a long way to go.
W.
T. Eve. Quick session on routes at Foundry with Tom. Failed on a 6c+.
F.
S. PM Chapel head Scar with Dave Turnball after BMC meeting. First time back for 20 years. Great place aqnd just us at the crag. Chose War Hero as a warm up which was given 6c. Bad choice - we both ended up having to redpoint it. Consensus seems to be stiff 7a looking at UKC logbook just now. Then managed to flash Route of all Evil 7a+ though grabbed the belay. Then fell near the top of Instellar Overdrive 6b which Id done in the past - so much for a gentle warm down
S PM Cornice with Tom. Flailed about on Clarion Call anmd Martial Music.

Was a busy week workwise. Got a month to get fit before Kalymnos. 
   

[nik at work]

STG - Local trad project
MTG - Margalef monstering
LTG - Cave sport projects/other trad project

M - Quick session outside. Planned on cleaning and working project but Doug was out trying a project a couple of lines to the right so I had a quick toppy on his line, very bouldery. Had a blast on my line, got to the crux move (two moves from the top) from the ground but greased off. Conditions were not great, a bit humid. Really fingery (both lines) skin trashed.
T - BM session with +20kg. Hard work, 80kg people must be pretty strong. Managed everything but it felt a bit too much, dangerously close to tweaky so am adjusting back down to +15kg for now I think.
W - BM session. +15kg.
T - Quick after work session. Batcave, 25 mins walk-in means you only get about 1.5 hours at the crag but Doug was very keen to get his project ticked off. He put clips in his route, then I tried to do his other new route there putting the clips in, dropped the last hard move (I'm playing the damp hold card). Doug then failed to redpoint his route despite an impressive effort. In honesty the clagg was very bad with several visibly wet patches on the crag and lots of toothpaste chalk. Just to prove how poor conditions were I got my route on the second attempt.
F - Nothing
S - D I Y oh why oh why...
S - D I Y again but popped out for a brush and play on the trad project. Cleared some earth off the top-out, a sign that things might be coming to a head... Also looked at the RP placement, it's not great, in snappy rock, blind and tricky to place. But it is just before the crux, and the other gear is a half-ish height pretty poor peg. Hmmm... Couldn't really try and link the whole route as the headwall was in the sun which means the thin sharp quartzy holds are greasy skin trashers.

Trad line is coming together but conditions are tricky, needs to be a bit cooler but autumn rain could ruin the wall until next year, and the evenings are drawing in. Sticking with 15kg for the next week then planning on stepping back up to 20kg for a final burn before Margalef (SYKED!). Fuck fit, I want to get strong

[csl]

Sept Goals
Book October Spain Trip - done
Stick to training plan - better
RP Tennessee
More trad - more E3-5

Mon - Rest
Tue - Fingerboard + Max Bouldering + Core
Wed -
Thu -
Fri -  AnCap + Continuity + Core
Sat -
Sun - Pullups + Locks + Core

Ok week. Booked trip to Northern spain for the end of October which should keep psyche high. missed Campus + some supplementary sessions this week. Off trad climbing next weekend so hopefully get some good stuff done!

[TobyD]

T. Eve. Quick session on routes at Foundry with Tom. Failed on a 6c+.
 

Was that the black one with the tufas on the new RH wall by any chance?

[JackAus]

STG: Another V7 and more development.
MTG: DWS Project.
LTG: V11

In Sydney all week doing rope access course. So every day (besides weekend) was climbing ropes for 8 hrs a day... Just a bit sweaty....

M: Ropes.... Went for an indoor boulder afterwards. Pretty small wall but literally around the corner from where I was staying. First time on a halfway decent campus board in a looong time (over 18 months). 1-4 both hands, 1-3-5 both hands, couldn't do 1-5. Smashed out a bunch of problems that were given V6/V7. Pretty rubbish setting. Wasn't that happy with it.
T: Ropes.
W: Ropes.
T: Ropes.
F: Ropes. Passed course no probs....
S: Crumbly. Warmed up campusing around. Got on Syd classic: Sushi Train V8. Haven't been here in over a year. Quickly got back to high point, then not too far off sticking big crux bump (pic at bottom). Also had a few goes at Nasty V6, bled everywhere.... Went for big ride.
S: 3hr ride home. Knackered. Was in bed at like 830pm...

Crux of Sushi Train is catching this move:

[Sasquatch]

STG- 3 local projects 8A, 8A+, and 8B projects.  All the moves have been done on all three. 
MTG- Mandala
LTG- find, bolt, and clean local 8b+ to 8c project / To Bolt or Not to Be

M-Campus Session - new PR
T-Rest
W-Max Boulder outside- Shit wet conditions, ripped hole in finger, but managed to stick crux of 8B project, and worked out and linked new 8A in two overlapping sections.
Th-Rest
F-Rest -drank too much
S-Max boulder at home, good session, but got worn out quickly.
S-Rest

kind of rough week motivationally.....

[shark]

T. Eve. Quick session on routes at Foundry with Tom. Failed on a 6c+.
 

Was that the black one with the tufas on the new RH wall by any chance?

No - the right hand one up the Troll Wall - cant remember colour but spotty I think. Was pumped by time I got to crux pulls on to headwall.

[Luke Owens]

Trying to do plenty of stretching and massaging of my mega tight forearms, seems to be working a bit but still getting "pins an needles".

Monday: Rest

Tuesday: Work gym session:

15 Wide Grip Pull Ups
10 Dips
10 Front Shoulder Raises (10kg)
10 Side Shoulder Raises (10kg)
10 Hanging Leg Raises
10 Upright Shoulder Rotation (5kg)
Side Star Plank both sides (1min each)

Repeat the above then:

1 Min Dish
1 Min Alternating Supermans

Wednesday: Rest

Thursday: Dinbren - Very humid greasy conditions. Got reaquiented with Flowers are for the Dead (7c). Actually made progress despite not being on it for a couple of months, better beta for the start and lead through the middle section. Need to finish this off ASAP, feels very close now. Massively powered out after a few goes then had to work hard on ~5 laps of a 6c.

Friday: Rest

Saturday: Rest

Sunday: Back at The Diamond, so psyched for this place, it's like a dream climbing there!

Warmed up trying to "go for it" on Rub a Dub-Dub (7a) fell on the crux, did it next go but it felt like a fight, happy with my recovery on the top section post crux despite near terminal pump.

Went for a no expectation onsight attempt on Calimero (7a+), did it and it felt pretty easy. Completely unexpected, hardest onsight to date and on my favorite crag too. Really psyched!

Seem to be getting plenty of good progress in the endurance game. Time to step it up a bit?

[T_B]

83.9Kg 

M - Foundry Lunch - About 20 problems on the Wave, mostly flashing up to 7A+. Felt kind of strongish but a bit lacking in core?
T -
W - School lunch. 3 x 4 AnPow with less rest than previously. AeroPow - 4 x 28 moves with 1 min 30 secs rest, 11 mins rest then 3 x, failing on move 18 of rep 4. Sick of this!
T -
F - Foundry lunch. Warm up, a few problems on the board, then 1-4-7 twice on each arm, then trying harder wave problems. Felt well streng.
S - P.M. School. Mainly 50 degree, but did Red and Hard, Dope Black Slope on 30 degree. Linked first 3 moves of Schoolboy (PB since nu skool), getting closer on Total Recoil. Shut down on some ridiculous Zippy 7A.
S - 20 mins messing about at Burb bridge, did that little 7A, Mermaid.

Yay - the drudgery of timed circuits has finished and I can just boulder now until Spanish trip! Taper time 

[duncan]

STG: two sessions fingerboarding or bouldering a week. Lose 2kg. Don't get injured.
MTG: 7b RP this winter. E5 OS, something vertical, classic and not dangerous, next April.
LTG: Long hard (for me) rock routes in the Alps, Dolomites, Picos and Scotland.

Weight: 73.8kg

M -
T - Biscuit Factory - social visit and bouldering to ~V3
W -
T - Westway - Routes - two sets of 5x6b-6c. 3 mins. on/3 mins off. Splendidly pumped.
F -
S - Family stuff. Then
S - A's birthday party. Shoulder stability. Mini fingerboard session.


Decent training week. Two strength sessions and one Aerobic Power. Haven't done the latter for quite some while, time to put the Aerobic Capacity to use on shorter routes.

Several unmissable events, one of which ironically I ended up missing, meant I stayed at home for what sounds like a great weekend for climbing. Another social weekend coming up but it's in Devon and I might manage to sneak out for an afternoon.

Plan: 3 weeks of roughly the above: finger strength work for the long-term and power-endurance to get me up some routes in October.

[Stubbs]

T - BM session with +20kg. Hard work, 80kg people must be pretty strong. Managed everything but it felt a bit too much, dangerously close to tweaky so am adjusting back down to +15kg for now I think.

Nik can't you get your hands on a few 1 kg plates to work your way up to 20 kg? 5kg is a big jump when it's near your limit!

[tomtom]

T - BM session with +20kg. Hard work, 80kg people must be pretty strong. Managed everything but it felt a bit too much, dangerously close to tweaky so am adjusting back down to +15kg for now I think.

Nik can't you get your hands on a few 1 kg plates to work your way up to 20 kg? 5kg is a big jump when it's near your limit!

Especially when its c.8% of your weight!! thats a big jump!!

You could just drink 2l before hand

[tommytwotone]

Back in the game enough to warrant an update I guess.


STG: go bouldering
LTG: Font 7b


M: lunchtime gym session - 2.5 tonnes total of deadlifts, weights 50kg - 80kg
T: Depot session in eve on in-my-comfort zone crimpy wood circuit
W: nowt
T: nowt
F: lunchtime gym session - 3 tonnes total of deadlifts, weights 50kg - 80kg
S: nowt
S: Depot session with Una in tow, didn't get that much done but did at least a) climb and b) prove that she'd sit happily while I did

[nik at work]

T - BM session with +20kg. Hard work, 80kg people must be pretty strong. Managed everything but it felt a bit too much, dangerously close to tweaky so am adjusting back down to +15kg for now I think.

Nik can't you get your hands on a few 1 kg plates to work your way up to 20 kg? 5kg is a big jump when it's near your limit!

Especially when its c.8% of your weight!! thats a big jump!!

You could just drink 2l before hand

Fair observations but...

Well it's only 5kg innit??

Seriously though, yes building up gradually would be sensible.

[cheque]

STG- Normal middle fingers. Breakthrough this week. 

2014 goals- 20 14 E-points, back to 7th grade in sport and bouldering. As last week- none of these are likely to happen now- concentrating on my film.

LTG- 8a sport.

M- Pullups, pushups, shoulder presses.

T- Rest.

W- Black Rocks investigating ab-rope options to film routes. Quite a bit of jumaring.

T- Notts Depot. Circuit board warm-up and warm down surprised me as I clearly still have residual fitness from training to go to Pembroke! Bouldered the rest of the evening- just tried whatever I fancied regardless of what holds it had- got shut down on some stuff and lacking in power (unsurprising) but did quite well. Most important thing is that my fingers didn't hurt at all, during or after. Can't remember the last time I could say this. YYFY

F- Rest. Sore. Indoor climbing is quite hard.

S- Weekend at sister's with cold.

 S- Weekend at sister's with cold.

[webbo]

Mon. Nothing.
Tue. Board repeated a session from a year ago. Did everything plus a few other things.
Wed. Nothing.
Thu. Board struggled a bit. Bike 1 hour intervals.
Fri. Nothing. Grandson Cameron to stay.
Sat. Board managed my default mirror session 41 problems. Bike 1 hour intervals.
Sun. Bike 32 miles 8 different hills between 1 in 5 and 1 in 10 2 hrs 2 mins. 5 mins faster than the other times I've done this circuit.
First time I've climbed 3 times in a week for 3 months. Foot not too bad.