[webbo]

i went there yesterday :x  the new guide says problems to test both the beginer and the expert .
its a30 minute walk ,its chipped to fuck .lots of big pointy blocks to land on and after walking round every boulder for about an hour.i pissed off with out even getting my shoes out of my bag
i've climbed on some obscure shitty bits of rock in my time but this takes some beating

[dave]

big up yourself niggaz.

a crew of ballerz hit the wainstones yesterday. I'd only been there once before ona  uni freshers trip which i didn't really climb at, so didn't know if it was going to be dope or wack. lets just say i was pleasantly surprised.

despite beign about 30deg climbing was ok since it was catching the most awsome gale going.we'd been to brimham the day before and this place knocked it into a cocked hat in terms of being pleasant to climb there in heat. theres loadsof good routes to solo when its a bit less hot and sweaty, and the boulders are fairly good. yes theres some chips, but most things can be done without them and its nowhere near as bad a caley. the rock is pretty good, and is interesting for those unique iron desposits. most landings are very good.

theres also what looks like a very hard (my guess 7c or more) problem on an undercu  green wall with a low edge, good low sidepul and a little-finger mono. anyone any ideas?

I'll post some photos up tonite hopefully. the views from this crag go for miles, and the walk in is only like 20mins if you take the low path through the woods, flat until you'r beneathe hte crag, then 2 mins uphill and you're there. theres also a good steep slope for matsurfing which is excellent fun, and safe with thick summer bracken to stop you.

also at the top of the woods 100m below the broughton face of the crag theres a jumble of blocks, mainly shit, but with this one superb leaning grit-style prow (like wharncliffe rock) from sitting, excellent involved climbing, probably in the V6 range. not in the guide but i'm gonna try and find out what it is. that problem is worth the walk alone.

word.

[Bubba]

Well there's two slightly contrasting reports or what?

[Bonjoy]

theres also what looks like a very hard (my guess 7c or more) problem on an undercut  green wall with a low edge, good low sidepul and a little-finger mono. anyone any ideas?

 Strangley coincidentally this sounds like a prob mention to me just the other day. Apparantly Steve McStamina did it the other day (Thurs/Fri) whilst up there researching for an article. I think 7c was the mentioned grade, not sure if this was an FA or a repeat tho.

[dave]

yeah there was chalk on it already when we were there. just like ben mon said, you don't have to climb something to say how hard it is!

[Fiend]

I'll post some photos up tonite hopefully. the views from this crag go for miles,

Nice one Dave, I've been up a couple of times and enjoyed the routes up there but might try to drag a friend up for some boulderage...

However since both times I've walked in the old way i.e. bloody steep from the valley floor, so is that...

and the walk in is only like 20mins if you take the low path through the woods, flat until you'r beneathe hte crag, then 2 mins uphill and you're there.

...that walk-in that's described in the guide and is it pretty obvious to find??

[dave]

well after you leave great broughton the road goes up a hill and theres a carpark on the left and a layby on your right a little further. just after this layby a flaggstoned path goes uphill right for a couple of minutes then you come out at a clearing with a bench and a stile. you can either cross the stile left and go up onto the top of the moor, and descend at the end to the crag, or do what we did and walk right from the bench along a flat wide track along the top of the forest. this takes you beneath other crags on the way (ravenscar + landslip) untill you are beneath the broughton face of the crag, then blast uphill for a minute up the mat-surfing slope to the crag.

i have seen one guide describe a zigzag straight up through the woods but thats just plain wrong. :shock:

[webbo]

[Fiend]

Cheers D

i have seen one guide describe a zigzag straight up through the woods but thats just plain wrong.

Yup that's the one I've take, proper mountaineering business  :roll:

[dave]

some photos:

some of the main boulders:


bo slab:


nice rampline:


excellent prow:


different view:


nother view:


matsurfing:

[jonP]

Looks good - particularly the mat surfing!

[AndyR]

- particularly the mat surfing!

The sport of Kings.

[webbo]

i guess i'm gonna have to go back :evil: .fooking hell!!!! more walking.
dave i did look at the prow but thought you'd just grab the top after a move.where did you finish it.

[dave]

well where the right hand is in this photo is a massive hold, match that, go up right for the bit of rock just out of shot (sloper) then rock onto where my left hand was (in the photo) for the top, be it either the apex of the boulder or just left.  


from the big hold you could rock all the way left for the top without using the right sloper, but i've not got enough lock for this and the other boys tried it and didn't manage it.  it does look liekthe top is within reach all the way but when you're on it its just not the case - don't recon you could top out any earlier cos of rick of hitting the block on the left hand side. it started from sitting anall, its a natural line innit.

[SA Chris]

Looks like a top spot. Webbo, I guess you have been spoiled in the past.

Dave, your resemblance to hong kong stuey is uncanny.

[dave]

some people call me "the thinking man's hong kong stuey".
some call me the gangster of love.......

[hongkongstuey]

Dave, your resemblance to hong kong stuey is uncanny.

although i'd never be seen dead in a sweat band like that!

[dave]

shame on you

[webbo]

went back for another look on saturday.did few things before going down to try the prow.as the landing is a bit  dodgy, i did it from standing then sussed out the sit start.as i was on my own i was a bit anxious about falling off and missing the mat.so when i went for the jug i did'nt have full commitment, so i missed it and the fooking mat.still its not a long way to limp :cry:

[dave]

bad luck! what did you think to that prow? i recon its a good un. how did you do the sitter? word

[webbo]

i thought it was pretty good[apart from the landing].althogh the boulder on the left encroaches when you go for the jug.
for the sitter.i used a pocket for my Lh.a small diagonal flat hold for my Rh,Rfoot on a smear near the arete. go with my R for agood finger jug,heel hook with my Lfoot.Lh to slopey hold Rh to under cut pocket  Lh to finger hold round arete. go again to big slopey hold .pivot round slap for jug.fumble, fall off. swear alot tape up rapidly swelling ankle,hobble back to the road,pretending to all the walkers that my behaviour is perfectley normal  :shock:

[dave]

sounds similar to what i did. mine was start with LH on good flake next to arete, RH gaston in right wall. LF smear on arete. go up RH to fingerjug on arete, RF high on ramp thing on right wall, flag LF, cross under for big slopey hold with LH. get pocket/layaway with RH, then sort feet and slap left round arete for a sloper (my redpoint failure point!), adjust RH into undercuting pocket - now in the position you can pull into for the standing, then left toe on fingerjug on arete then fall onto decent hold with LH, then dropknee RF on top of ramp to get the massivel hold, then finishing moves.

we had like half 4 mats down for the landing, so was ok. but like you say you need to be careful to not crack your head on the left block on the lowermoves! any thought on grades? goot problem, and a good physical change from the technical stuff on the main boulders.

[webbo]

i was putting my right foot on the finger hold on the arete. i could've put my left on the boulder at this point. i'm not sure i did it this way from standing though. i was rushing a bit as it was getting very warm and it was coming in to the sun.i thought v6/ v7 but that might be cos i was gripped.

[Fiend]

Went up there to boulder yesterday, was fun. Pretty windy (no shit) but still warm (unfortunately too warm to do a couple of routes which was a pity). Did a nice gentle easy circuit  and it was good although lacking in really awesome stuff (apart from the 6a arete). Had a look at the UKB arete on the way back down, looks great, will come back for that.


Found a few more problems that provided a fair bit of fun:


Sitter to the 4c arete on the slab off a small notch - surprisingly cool, manages to pack a lot in 1m of climbing.

Wall to the right of the ramp in Dave's photo off low and high edge - again, only a couple of moves but a good problem.

Right hand version of 5c shelf problem on A/B boulder - very good, low start off vertical seam and break, dyno to sloping R-end of shelf, up to jugs and excellent rockover finish. 2nd best thing we did after the 6a rib.

[Steve R]

dredging quite a way back here but did any info about the amazing prow problem get discovered?  asked on the other side too, no kowledge beyond what's on this thread though yet.