[mark]

Bill, the local ranger, collared me a few years ago as I walked in to Carrhead with some friends. Apparently there's a decent badger population there and he asked that we didn't go so that the badgers weren't disturbed, as they have been at the main edges. Seemed reasonable to us and I haven't been since.

Truth is that it's a very minor venue with not much of interest.

[webbo]

if you've been disapointed with a visit to crookstones. please dont go to the wainstones.if you do i promise you will want to kill yourself as the thought that someone has bothered to write it up is more than any self respecting boulderer can contemplate. :puke02: it was only the  long years working in mental health that saved me  :wink:

[dave]

cant do technical master

word Gz

got tech-masta iced today, thought i'd drop the knowledge for the benefit of 18wheela...

basically start with left foot, and trying it one-handed (almost) is the key. i finally realised it was bringing my right arm over layback style lowdown that fucks me up. somehow it just puts me to cock on the feet, can't trust shit in this position, instead just keep working L hand up arete with RH just on whatever little balance holds in the crack, only bring RH over if you want when you're stood on the top foothold when its straightforward. funny thing.

for the record i don't think this is one of the best problems in the peak - if it was then my boots and mat would be on ebay tomorrow. certainly the most pollished problem outside minus ten. its quite good though, in a gay kinda way. harder than WSS so at least 7b+. :wink:

P.S. any of the footwork brigade got the SCIENCE on masta chef? :huh:

[Bubba]

I've been meaning to go back and redo T.M. - not done it for years, but used to have it dialled, though not in trainers like the Dawes in Stone Monkey...class problem though. Anyone on here done the direct start to Green Death (apart from SamT - I know you've done it you technical beast you)? I've spent a lot of time getting nowhere on that one...

[dave]

think johnny footwork has done it.

on that sublect, theres some small fresh rock scars around the base of that problem (one positive one under the starting foothold), and on one of the footholds on green death - dunno if its rocks falling/thrown off top or summert else.

[account_inactive]

Technical master is also cool on the left hand side.  Way more burly though.

I've been burnt off really badly by a certain Mr X on Master Chef.  Was there about 4 years ago with no motivation and Mr X had been falling off Masters Edge all day and was obviously in a funny mood.  He came over, had a chat and asked if we could spot him on TM.  He managed to wobble himself up to the top and then started to look at MC.  We had been fucking around on it and so he started to get us motivated by telling us 'doesn't get many repeat this youth'.  After a while he's getting to the same point as us and we start to get bored and ready to fuck off.  Out of absolutly fucking nowhere he ices this problem perfectly :shock:   and we leave the crag in awe at how he pulled it out of the bag.  A week later I'm telling this story to a friend in Sheff  and he tells me that Mr X has this problem wired and did the same thing to him.  A while later I'm back at Millstone and who do I see gibbering up TM and falling off MC........... :roll:
The man in question is well known short sheff guy.

Beta for the tall: grab the crimp with both hands bridging between the block and a small foot hold (not the obvious high ones), bounce start and go up with right hand to the blank side pull.  Rock left foot onto obvious foot hold and stand up to glory.

Beta for small:  Step up with left foot to the highest of the footholds, not the big on.  Lock down with left arm and pad up with right unitl you can pinch the blank side-pull.  Same deal, stand up to glory.

Alternatively you can dyno to the top hold like Pete Oxley  :eek3:
The sitter of Mo's is pretty cool too, though I can't do it

[Bonjoy]

on that subject, theres some small fresh rock scars around the base of that problem (one positive one under the starting foothold), and on one of the footholds on green death - dunno if its rocks falling/thrown off top or summert else.

 These have been there a while now and are crampon scars from fuckwits trying to do it as a winter route  :cuss:  

[dave]

These have been there a while now and are crampon scars from fuckwits trying to do it as a winter route  :cuss:  

well theres certialy some fresh shit since i was last there at the end of june, cos i was trying the direct then and at least one of them is new.

crampon scars - when will people learn?

Beta for the tall: grab the crimp with both hands bridging between the block and a small foot hold (not the obvious high ones), bounce start and go up with right hand to the blank side pull. Rock left foot onto obvious foot hold and stand up to glory.

cheers. i had a brief go trying to pull str8 off the floor, didn't know if the block was kosher.

[account_inactive]

I think the block is kosher but if you want to do the sitter afterwards it doesn't help.  Sit start bits ok, top bits ok but getting into the starting position is shit ard