[andymarshll]

Due to an injury I'm having to lay off the steep bouldering I'd normally love doing and am having to stick to slabs for a few months so I've got myself a super thin slate project (The Medium) to be trying instead.

I'm trying to choose between anasazi whites and miuras, I'd go for the whites but I've got a source telling me that the whites get disappointingly soft after not too long, the miuras start softer but with the more aggressively asymmetrical shape I wonder if they'd be better than soft whites. The downside of the miuras is likely to be more stretch.

Anybody who's used either or both can tell me which they rate for edging and how they age, also how unsticky is XS edge? I've only used xs grip xs grip2 and various stealth rubbers.

[nai]

Not sure if it's relevant in this case but an interesting observation from Paul B re XS Edge rubber here:

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,24106.msg445245.html#msg445245

[andymarshll]

Ah cool i'd not seen that, sounds like i'd be better with the whites for the rubber at least, though TBH i was reckoning that anyway.

[Fultonius]

My last 2 pairs of whites went really soft,  really quick. Gave them away in good condition  for a bottle of wine.

[duncan]

My verdict: Size 43 Miuras for sale or swap for Blancos.

Longer version: mainly as per haberich. It depends on the fit of course, I have Anasazi shaped feet and I've tried alternatives but keep going back. This applies to vertical limestone at lower grades than you are operating at.

[Sasquatch]

Any thoughts on the comparison between these for Smith style vert edging?  Thinking about a certain 110 foot edgathon.  I'd assume most of the aforementioned applies....

[Sasquatch]

Anyone have any thoughts?  I guess I could just buy both....

[moose]

Any thoughts on the comparison between these for Smith style vert edging? 

As always, YMMV, but...... I would consider Miura VSs.  In my experience, Miura lace-ups feel brilliant initially but soften-up very rapidly.  They feel great after an admirably brief wearing-in period, but if you climb a lot on smalll edges (I live 20 miles from Malham, 'nuff said) they end up being relegated to smeary bouldering even when they appear outwardly still in good condition.  The Miura VSs have a bit more stiffness (presumably a result of their "P3" platform) and retain their shape for longer.  I've never tried "Smith style vert edging" but, for me, the VSs have been brilliant at Malham and on thin edging at Siurana. Re the Blancos, I've only ever "test driven" them at indoor walls - admirably stiff but too narrow yet not asymmetric enough for my tastes (like wearing a brick).

[Sasquatch]

Thanks!  That's helpful.  I've got a pair of VS's I love, but was concerned they'd be too downturned.  I'll give them a shot in the spring for mey first scoping trip. If they feel really off, maybe I'll make a change.

[Sasquatch]

Thanks for the links.  That helps alot. 

I'm hoping to head down for a bit in April to check it out, then the following October for the real seige
I'll keep you posted when I head down.

[Muenchener]

they love the Katana Lace-Up which has the same specs (XS Edge rubber and P3 platform) as the Miura VS.

They are rather wide though, which might be a factor. I had a pair and they always felt insecure, as if my foot was squirming about in them, whereas Miura Laces are a bit narrower and fit me perfectly. Can't compare directly with Miura VS, have only ever tried those on in the shop.