[dave]

Cheers/fuck you Dave.

Don't mention it.

[Seb]

From big fat pinch with RH I was dropping my left knee, facing right, and going for the slotty edge with my left. Hard to get in it, so you have to be static. I think i did this move once. Hard foot moves, R heel on and up to poor little pinch with RH, LF in the hole, then trying to pull front on (RF on nothing) up to the small positive edge with my left. Couldnt do this move. Then LF on ramp out left, RF on high little foothold, dropping R knee and slapping really quickly to good edge with RH (felt will be nails on link). Then easy move up to edge with notch in it, then couldnt work out where I was going and was too scared on my own with one  pad to persevere. Will go back with step ladder and scope out where im going for.

Thought was well hard.

I go to the pinch lower down and do the move to the RH pinch off that. Much easier.

Move to the second to last hold is still shutting me down totally. Cant make the distance.

[Three Nine]

What so big fat pinch with RH to slopey pinch below the slotty edge with LH then R heel and up to little pinch with RH?

Have you worked out which hold you're going to on the move that's shutting you down? I couldnt see the hold!

[Seb]

i used the lower sidepull for my right hand which set me up better but other than that yer. I know where the hold is but im miles away from touching it.

[Three Nine]

Hopefully some nice person will put a vid up soon.

[Bonjoy]

Soz, didn't get a vid (not suggesting i'm nice either). Might go back and do it again though and get one.

[Three Nine]

That would definitely be a nice thing to do!

[Bonjoy]

I’ve updated this update with some up to date additional bits at Blackwell and eatswood. See italics in OP

[Bonjoy]

[Bonjoy]

Here's the Sheep Shifter vid (or will be once vimeo's done processing). Shame I couldn't find anywhere to plonk the camera which showed the steepness, ee well. Had another play on the possible lefthand variant last night too, the top bit is easy (get the big sidepull/undercut off the crimp then span right into the finish of the normal) but I couldn't do the moves to get there, getting the crimp after the slot with your right seemed pretty hard. Might turn out to be worthwhile if it doesn't climb too close to the blocks on the left, but will be harder than the original I think.

[Fiend]

YGB looks a pimp line for lime.

[monkey boy]

Sheep Shifter looks good. Impressive piece of limestone!

On a side note I like the "pineapple" in related collections on the vimeo page 

[Bonjoy]

Fiend - Yeah it ticks all the boxes, great rock, climbs well, nice height, nice location, tops out. Shame lank boy beat me to it after I'd cleaned it up 

MB - well spotted

[monkey boy]

Where is the Black N Deckout Buttress in Blackwell? Past Mutton Busting?

Where do you park for Cave Dale? Will this stay dry in the rain as it looks like some might be on the way tomorrow.

[Bonjoy]

Yeah BnD buttress is the next buttress down from Mutton Busting on the same side. Not far, maybe 50m.

For Cave Dale turn left onto Back Street at the Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese in Castleton. Follow the road and bear left at the junction. Either park as soon after the pub as you find a space, or more likely at a weekend on the the road as it leaves the village in an easterly direction. There is a brown footpath sign next to a bend in the road with "Cave Dale" on it, SS is on the right almost straight after the gate. Should stay dry even in heavy rain

[dave]

That video is no good, you make it look piss!

I doubt the top jug on the arete would stay dry in heavy rain.

[dontfollowme]

Had a go on Ramification yesterday but didn't do it. Did you use a high left foot on the slopey shelf to top out?

[Bonjoy]

Yes, left foot over the lip first, rock over and match feet. I have vids of both probs on the block that I'll put up when I get a chance

[BAndy]

I did Sheep Shifter today. It's really good and 7b seemed about right.

I ended up jumping to the penultimate hold as it seemed easier (for those of lesser stature) than locking it out or using the little intermediate crimp below.

I also used a really good heel-toe on the big pinch instead of the drop knee (beta courtesy of Gritlad so I'd be grateful if someone would award him a wad point as I still haven't posted enough to be able to do this myself).

[BAndy]

Checked out Seal Stones and Edge today. Bit of a slog but some great problems and maybe room for a few more. I added a direct mantel finish to The Wanderer at a scary 6b+(ish). I couldn't do the chicken wing method on Chicken and Mushroom Scoop but managed a dyno method instead which was still good fun. Not sure if this was how the original problem (called Launch) was done or if it was originally done French style.

Went back to Cave Dale with 205Chris this evening. We highballed the start of an old E3 6a on the Rheinstor-esque wall at about 6b+ (can't remember the name but it's in the old Stoney guide) and also did a right-hand version at around 6c+. Worth checking out if you're in the neighbourhood.

[Bonjoy]

Nice one. Good to see Kinder getting a few visits. It’s hard to tell with Launch/CnM. The guide says something like “somehow jump to the scoop left of the unclimbed offwidth, eng 6b”, I didn’t spot the possibility of dynoing off the undercut so assumed this meant a French start. I’ll email PM and see if he remembers.
The blunt rib you guys did on Ring Bolt Buttress looked a really worthy addition. I can’t find any reference to it online or in any of the old guides/supplements. Give it a name and see if that doesn’t shake a retro claimer out of the woodwork, that’s my usual strategy. Tried to check the new route books on rockarchivist.co.uk but unfortunately the site is down in protest over the bolting of some Lancashire quarries. Whilst I’m also against the bolting, it seems a shame that climbers in another area who have little say in the bolting in question loose access to a useful resource. I’ve got some more stuff here to report but will start a new thread as this one is already a bit crowded for a new probs report.

[Three Nine]

I did Sheep Shifter today. It's really good and 7b seemed about right.

I ended up jumping to the penultimate hold as it seemed easier (for those of lesser stature) than locking it out or using the little intermediate crimp below.

I also used a really good heel-toe on the big pinch instead of the drop knee (beta courtesy of Gritlad so I'd be grateful if someone would award him a wad point as I still haven't posted enough to be able to do this myself).

Heel toe on the big pinch for which hand move?

[BAndy]

I did Sheep Shifter today. It's really good and 7b seemed about right.

I ended up jumping to the penultimate hold as it seemed easier (for those of lesser stature) than locking it out or using the little intermediate crimp below.

I also used a really good heel-toe on the big pinch instead of the drop knee (beta courtesy of Gritlad so I'd be grateful if someone would award him a wad point as I still haven't posted enough to be able to do this myself).

Heel toe on the big pinch for which hand move?

The move to the good glued right-hand crimp (the fifth hand move).

Neither I nor 205Chris used a drop knee for the move off the big pinch to the pocket either. Bizarrely we found it easier to go face-on and a bit dynamically.

[BAndy]

The blunt rib you guys did on Ring Bolt Buttress looked a really worthy addition. I can’t find any reference to it online or in any of the old guides/supplements. Give it a name and see if that doesn’t shake a retro claimer out of the woodwork, that’s my usual strategy.

I found a UKB thread from 2008 that mentions bouldering on Ring Bolt Buttress.

John Gillott:

I did a bit of bouldering and climbing there many years ago.

In addition to the traverse there are some nice fingery problems on the ringbolt buttress a bit higher up on the left. The blunt arete until the difficulties ease is about English 6b. Into the scoop to the left is about 6a (keep going to the top of the crag at about E2). A low left to right traverse is quite good as well, at around 6a/b.

I'll get the name of the scoop from Chris and add both of them to Peak Bouldering along with the traverse.

[cofe]

Here’s an update of Peak stuff from the last few months. In no particular order.

Millstone

June Whitfield 7A - Climb the overhanging groove left of April Arete start to join it near the top.

Me and Scouse did this yesterday. Nicely tech with nano-nubbins for the feet. Soloing off the ledge was fun in gale force winds...