[Fiend]

Ramshaw rig looks well brown. Good update.

[Seb]

Went back and tried Sheep Shifter with the new sequence and its really good. Hopefully go back and finish it off soon. The move to the first crimp is really hard.

[Bonjoy]

Good work. You mean the one after the horizontal slot? That was the hardest move for me. Think I did it with LF in pocket and RF just flagging.

[Seb]

No the move with the left hand up from the big hole to the horizontal slot. I think ive got some different beta now so it should be ok hopefully.

[Bonjoy]

I found that bit fine using a pretty deep right facing Egyptian.

[Seb]

Cool I tried that briefly but focused on trying to do it from a stand. I think that would work especially if i the sidepull below the slot as an intermediate. The heel hook move to the pinch is brilliant.

[mark20]

I thought it was all desperate, at least the chippy round the corner is good. Nice find!

[dave]

Tried sheep shitter today. Nails for 7a+ to be honest, although that's coming from someone who's done no limestone at all this summer. Two overlapping halfs is the best I could muster. Warming up there is a massive issue.

Interestingly we seemed to conclude it was easier not to use the drilled(!) slot but to use the sidepull/pinch underneath it. Also we didn't use the big obvious pinch for RH but a better lower sidepull/pinch a bit down and right. Shame to miss it but it's a much better hold.

[The Runt]

No closed projects in the churnet never has been, you just have to be able to find them

[Bonjoy]

Tried sheep shitter today. Nails for 7a+ to be honest, although that's coming from someone who's done no limestone at all this summer. Two overlapping halfs is the best I could muster. Warming up there is a massive issue.

Interestingly we seemed to conclude it was easier not to use the drilled(!) slot but to use the sidepull/pinch underneath it. Also we didn't use the big obvious pinch for RH but a better lower sidepull/pinch a bit down and right. Shame to miss it but it's a much better hold.

Despite appearances I think the slot is natural. It had some crumbly crystal I cleaned out in part of it which would suggest a natural void. There's some tiny nails hammered into cracks further up though so who knows what random uses the rock has had in the past.
Hmm I didn't find the move off the big pinch hard relative to the other moves. I suspect it works well with the egyptian sequence. Horses for courses as per limestone. I'd have got a vid but the battery was low on my camera.
Warmup wise If I'd had more time I would have had a play on the pockety highballs further up on the left or done some stuff on the steep buttress just under the castle. Had a look at the latter a couple of years ago and it has nice rock and potential for four or five nice mid grade things.

[Oliver Hill]

Had a great session on Sheep Shifter with the Daves. Brilliant problem, maybe one of the best i have tried in the peak. Thanks for putting it up!  Fell of last move to the jug. Sidepull beta seemed lots easer . . . .  Again, maybe bit stiff for 7a+

[Bonjoy]

Cheers. Will deffo check out the sidepull beta next time. My first thought was 7b but I usually knock a grade off my first thought as a matter of course when grading, works ok most of the time, maybe not this time.

[dave]

Despite appearances I think the slot is natural. It had some crumbly crystal I cleaned out in part of it which would suggest a natural void. There's some tiny nails hammered into cracks further up though so who knows what random uses the rock has had in the past.

Pretty remarkable if its natural, looks very rockatrocity-esque! Will be back to kick that problem's back door in tout suite.

[Ru]

I usually knock a grade off my first thought as a matter of course when grading, works ok most of the time,

I generally do this on FAs. Also usually works.

[Bonjoy]

Despite appearances I think the slot is natural. It had some crumbly crystal I cleaned out in part of it which would suggest a natural void. There's some tiny nails hammered into cracks further up though so who knows what random uses the rock has had in the past.

Pretty remarkable if its natural, looks very rockatrocity-esque! Will be back to kick that problem's back door in tout suite.

Indeed.There are probably bits of crystal still in there I'd have thought, which make it remarkable as the first fossil evidence of power tool usage in the mesozoic era.

[r-man]

Just clocked your pics on pb. This looks brilliant. Is that really the beta?!

http://peakbouldering.info/areas/4-northern-grit/crags/183-seal-edge-stones/boulders/836-the-mushrooms/problems/4444-chicken-mushroom-scoop#.U_79VmPq11g

[Bonjoy]

It's the only way I could figure to do it. The tall might manage it without.

[Fiend]

Bonjoy at one with the mushrooms again!

[Three Nine]

Went to look at Sheep Shifter today. Good find!

I had a taped tip on my left index, which was a bit of a pain in the bum. Nonetheless I don't feel too silly saying that I think there are easier 7Cs on Peak lime, and certainly lots of far easier 7Bs. Maybe its a style thing - it felt much harder to 'gay' it than a lot of problems. Perhaps it would indeed be 7A+ on a Sheffield cellar board!

From big fat pinch with RH I was dropping my left knee, facing right, and going for the slotty edge with my left. Hard to get in it, so you have to be static. I think i did this move once. Hard foot moves, R heel on and up to poor little pinch with RH, LF in the hole, then trying to pull front on (RF on nothing) up to the small positive edge with my left. Couldnt do this move. Then LF on ramp out left, RF on high little foothold, dropping R knee and slapping really quickly to good edge with RH (felt will be nails on link). Then easy move up to edge with notch in it, then couldnt work out where I was going and was too scared on my own with one  pad to persevere. Will go back with step ladder and scope out where im going for.

Thought was well hard.

[Three Nine]

No the move with the left hand up from the big hole to the horizontal slot. I think ive got some different beta now so it should be ok hopefully.

I dont understand this? You start the problem with your LH in the big hole, so how can you be reaching up with your left hand from it?

[Bonjoy]

Cheers. That sounds much like my sequence. The last moves are fine once you know what you are reaching for. We had a ladder and it was useful for the top as it's quite high for blind slapping. From left on the notched edge get a similar sized hold with right, build feet and go again to a good hold where the arête cuts left, then glued jug with left.
Will change to 7b on pb.info

[Three Nine]

Is the good hold round on the top of the arete, or a sort of sidepul in a notch just down and left of the arete (if you can remember?)

[dave]

No the move with the left hand up from the big hole to the horizontal slot. I think ive got some different beta now so it should be ok hopefully.

I dont understand this? You start the problem with your LH in the big hole, so how can you be reaching up with your left hand from it?

He means your left hand is in the hole, then you let go of the hole to move that hand to the slot. Obviously the other hand is holding onto something while this is happening. Can't believe I just explained that.

[Bonjoy]

Is the good hold round on the top of the arete, or a sort of sidepul in a notch just down and left of the arete (if you can remember?)

It's over the arête where it cuts left on some brown looking rock. You can't really see the hold from below

[Three Nine]

Cheers Bonjoy. Cheers/fuck you Dave.