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Utopia traverse... (Read 1562 times)

Danny

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Utopia traverse...
July 17, 2004, 08:38:29 pm
Can anyone offer a sport grade for this one? Seems well despo for V7 avoiding the jugs in the two grooves then doing that V4/5 deadpoint affair on the left arete...
Also any handy hints for the pebble? Stuck on where to go after the two fingered crimp, and the top out seems a bit eliminate-ish with the flake on the left?
Cheers all...
D

Pantontino

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#1 Utopia traverse...
July 17, 2004, 09:43:40 pm
I think it is difficult to give a definitive grade - it is very height dependant. If you are 6ft or over it will feel about 7b, because it is possible to keep your toes in the low break at the end.

Shorter climbers can tick 7b+/7c.

The V7 link is similarly morpho, as ULH is very reachy. I would give a short climber 7c+ for this link, but probably only 7c for a tall climber.

You mention avoiding the jugs in both grooves. The only rule adopted for the classic link is to avoid the jugs higher up the first flake line. The big ledges on the V2 are 'in'.

I do recall working out a desperate low level eliminate - I think you stayed beneath all the conventional holds after the first crack. Never linked it though.

As for The Pebble, I've not actually done this ( :oops: ), but I have seen Pete Robins do it (I've got a photo somewhere). Then again, he climbed it so quickly (in his usual speeded up Harold Lloyd stylee) that I'd be hard pressed to say what his sequence was.

I guess I should go back and try it again (haven't been on it since the pebble fell off).

 

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