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I've been a bad bad boy - LPT (Read 1832 times)

groovedog

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I've been a bad bad boy - LPT
June 09, 2014, 04:31:47 pm
I had one go on this for the first time the other day... it all got a little busy with people trying to get on it so didn't get chance to try again.
It felt like most of the route will go but couldn't fathom the top from under-cuts to the belay.

Can it be done by reaching off the top highest undercut and spanning out to the lay away? Or are the two ratty crimps used inbetween or a combination. I'm about 5'9'' I tried but stuggled with the reach a bit.

Any knowledge or prefered sequence would be great as I was a bit baffled!

JohnM

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#1 Re: I've been a bad bad boy - LPT
June 09, 2014, 04:54:21 pm
At that height depending on your arm span you might have to arrange your hands so that you left hand is in the right hand undercut.  Take the crimp out right with your right hand and right foot up and drop the knee and span for the side pull.  It feels harder this way as the right hand undercut is poor and you have to twist your hand a bit to wrap it with the thumb. 

petejh

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#2 Re: I've been a bad bad boy - LPT
June 09, 2014, 04:55:33 pm
I'm 5.10 and can reach the layaway from the better, lefthand, undercut. Shorter folk might need to go from the poorer RH undercut. People who fit the acronym 'Disadvantaged, Won't be Able to Reach Far' may need to use the minging crimp inbetween the undercuts and the layaway. But most can reach. It's quite knacky getting the feet in the right places to make the reach and and then for the next move. Seem to remember two crucial dinks, one for right foot to make the reach then stepping the left foot through onto another dink and holding the barndoor. Best finishing move on the crag!

groovedog

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#3 Re: I've been a bad bad boy - LPT
June 10, 2014, 10:12:44 am
Many thanks, need to get back on it and put a bit of time in and try the span again.

Doylo

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#4 Re: I've been a bad bad boy - LPT
June 10, 2014, 12:12:31 pm
After all these years I only found the best foot sequence recently. Keep experimenting, it's a lot harder if you have to match on the rat crimps.

 

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