We're in danger of missing the real issue here; that Sloper mistook Sean Myles for Jason Myres.It's a fucking disgrace.
Gav - out of interest does everyone agree this is the crux of Hubble?
Where is this rule about 'friction' over 'mechanical', and what does it say about about hooking edges on knee-pads?
The stuff in the cave doesn't really bother me either, its pretty much a climbing wall anyway, but i just think it would be a great shame if what was perhaps the quintessential move on the quintessential route of the 90s was eliminated by a kneebar, especially as it would appear to be only possible by using a piece of equipment not available at the time. I am not saying you can do it but to me it just wouldn't be the same.I may be looking at it through rose tinted specs but that move and that route was the driving force behind a lot of peoples lives and has a special place in the minds of anyone climbing at the time. It would not be nice to see it reduced to something that a lot of people could do if they had strongish calves and a piece of rubber. That move should only be available for the people who have the strongest fingers. Simple as that.And Alex i gave up the crack some years ago and there is know way you will ever convince me that the crux of Hubble is a better, cooler move when it involves the use of knees. I was taught that you should never use them the very first day i climbed at scouts.Dont confuse easier and more efficient with better.
It's a damn shame the worlds first 9a may now not be so
QuoteIt's a damn shame the worlds first 9a may now not be soIt was 8c+ until last year, get a grip!!!
Anyways - who's next in line to try it in a haze of publicity? Dave Graham?
Quote from: gme on June 04, 2014, 02:02:02 pmThe stuff in the cave doesn't really bother me either, its pretty much a climbing wall anyway, but i just think it would be a great shame if what was perhaps the quintessential move on the quintessential route of the 90s was eliminated by a kneebar, especially as it would appear to be only possible by using a piece of equipment not available at the time. I am not saying you can do it but to me it just wouldn't be the same.I may be looking at it through rose tinted specs but that move and that route was the driving force behind a lot of peoples lives and has a special place in the minds of anyone climbing at the time. It would not be nice to see it reduced to something that a lot of people could do if they had strongish calves and a piece of rubber. That move should only be available for the people who have the strongest fingers. Simple as that.And Alex i gave up the crack some years ago and there is know way you will ever convince me that the crux of Hubble is a better, cooler move when it involves the use of knees. I was taught that you should never use them the very first day i climbed at scouts.Dont confuse easier and more efficient with better.Dismiss Parisella's as just a climbing wall if you like (as if Raven Tor was some grand crag and not just a similarly dusty, polished chunk of lime) but Pilgrimage is an historically important line too, perhaps not quite up there with Hubble, but certainly a very significant landmark in the history of Welsh climbing.Apart from this unfortunate sneer I agree with you. Pilgrimage hasn't changed, but the way people feel about it has. The same would happen to Hubble if its difficulty could be reduced by the use of a rubber pad.