Sorry, self indulgent thread but.... if you were trying the following route:
-average angle ~50degrees
- 6 clips and ~ 17 hand moves
-mainly compression, heels, pinches.
- very resistant with no definite crux but no shakes either
and you:
- could climb deck to clip 3 and clip to clip the rest reliably (but not a huge amount more than that)
-have access to a 45 degree board
What training would you do?
I know it's difficult trying to speculate with these things just over the net and obviously I've got some ideas but thought there's no harm in asking....
Biggest uncertainties for me are, despite being strong enough to do all moves relatively ok in isolation, how much focus should I shift away from strength onto training PE (or more specifically An Pow and/or An Cap)? And what length and difficulty circuit I should I devise for it to be efficient?
Going on the route at the moment (early days) feels great for familiarisation but more like a bouldering session as my links are so small. So not much training effect by going on it at the moment?
cheers