In response to your comment on the other thread, the 'backward' Peak area comment came from Koscis, in reference to Wilton and other Lancs quarries where selected retro-ing and lower-offs had been mandated at a BMC area meet... though that has since blown up in their face with Phil Kelly resigning his membership of the BMC etc, and I believe many of the bolts are now being chopped.
The tat on the trees above Dead Banana/ Bitterfingers has been replaced with a triple 'P' bolt lower-off. Total overkill in my opinion and appears to have been placed by someone inexperienced - bolts sticking miles out, and why the third bolt? Why any bolts in fact? What's wrong with tat on the trees?The handline to approach the left routes on Garage buttress is rigged on new bolts which replace the old thread belay below Helicon, Gerremdown etc. This is rigged on alloy caving hangers with steel bolts, and judging by the dust underneath quite freshly installed. Given that these hangers are both weaker (15kN vs 25kN), more expensive (£3.50 vs £2) and shorter lived, I can only assume they were chosen to allow the bolter to use 8mm bolts instead of 10 or 12mm. Which presumably are cheaper and saved his drill bit. The handline is then badly rigged only illustrating the rigger doesn't understand what Bunny knots are for. I would have sorted this but the maillons needed a spanner. All quite irritating given there is a perfectly adequate thread two feet away and good natural gear placements.
RobinYou have completely missed the point. I was not only unhappy at the decision, but the way the decision was arrived at, and a whole range of other factors which were not discussed at the meeting.One of these factors was sufficient to see the resignation of the NW area chair, as you will be aware.All this of course in reference to placing bolt lower offs at a venue which has been proud to be an almost totally traditional venue for decades and which, now it is owned by the BMC, is in the first throes of being brought to its knees in the name of climbing.To me, that's shit.In future, please don't make assumptions about my actions. Speak to me first.Phil
the new guide