Peak Bolt Fund donation link?
Its rubbish climbing up a wide crack isnt it ? IIRCMy view would be to put the lower off at the break - that's where the climbing really ends.
Accept bolts, and more will appear nearby. Give me an example where this hasn't happened - I have had enough private conversations with pro-bolters to know that what they would like to see is american-style 'trad-lite' with bolted belays and lower-offs, and scary-but-safe tamed runouts. They won't admit to that on here, but it's already happened on most of our limestone, and is creeping on to grit through the quarries.
Quote from: Dolly on June 04, 2014, 05:31:34 pmIts rubbish climbing up a wide crack isnt it ? IIRCMy view would be to put the lower off at the break - that's where the climbing really ends.My view would be to leave it as is. Maybe it's slightly alarmist to post the following:QuoteAccept bolts, and more will appear nearby. Give me an example where this hasn't happened - I have had enough private conversations with pro-bolters to know that what they would like to see is american-style 'trad-lite' with bolted belays and lower-offs, and scary-but-safe tamed runouts. They won't admit to that on here, but it's already happened on most of our limestone, and is creeping on to grit through the quarries. and it may be scrappy, it may be crappy but we ARE in the UK. Does every point of difference in every sport route in the UK have to be removed/tamed? Run-out routes at Malham, high first bolts at Kilnsey, War Memorial etc. etc.
My view would be to leave it as is. Maybe it's slightly alarmist to post the following:QuoteAccept bolts, and more will appear nearby. Give me an example where this hasn't happened - I have had enough private conversations with pro-bolters to know that what they would like to see is american-style 'trad-lite' with bolted belays and lower-offs, and scary-but-safe tamed runouts. They won't admit to that on here, but it's already happened on most of our limestone, and is creeping on to grit through the quarries.
My view would be to leave it as is...and it may be scrappy, it may be crappy but we ARE in the UK. Does every point of difference in every sport route in the UK have to be removed/tamed? Run-out routes at Malham, high first bolts at Kilnsey, War Memorial etc. etc.
not entirely (I came over a little too UKC), but this is:Quote from: Paul B on June 04, 2014, 07:20:52 pmMy view would be to leave it as is...and it may be scrappy, it may be crappy but we ARE in the UK. Does every point of difference in every sport route in the UK have to be removed/tamed? Run-out routes at Malham, high first bolts at Kilnsey, War Memorial etc. etc.
I'd say either leave as is, or stick an extra bolt in.
Quote from: Paul B on June 04, 2014, 07:20:52 pmQuoteAccept bolts, and more will appear nearby. Give me an example where this hasn't happened - I have had enough private conversations with pro-bolters to know that what they would like to see is american-style 'trad-lite' with bolted belays and lower-offs, and scary-but-safe tamed runouts. They won't admit to that on here, but it's already happened on most of our limestone, and is creeping on to grit through the quarries.Whoever said that either has a very narrow view of who is a pro bolter or hasn't met very many. I've bolted routes and been involved in a bolt fund and this is far from my position. Doubt it's your's either.
QuoteAccept bolts, and more will appear nearby. Give me an example where this hasn't happened - I have had enough private conversations with pro-bolters to know that what they would like to see is american-style 'trad-lite' with bolted belays and lower-offs, and scary-but-safe tamed runouts. They won't admit to that on here, but it's already happened on most of our limestone, and is creeping on to grit through the quarries.