[SamT]

Old kit removed from TOTBB and 3 resins put in on Tribes. rop bolt on the roof of tribe is stainless and good so didn't bother replacing that one.  need to remove the old bolts from tribe now. Couldn't get up to the belay ledge to replace the belays so that needs doing.

[SamT]

Anyone got any thoughts about replacing the bolt in Jezabel.  I thought if I had a rope down Dragon Flight to replace the belay on that, I could do the bolt on Jezabel at the same time. 

I know hardly anyone ever does some of these routes ever.  If they do, do they just highball to the break above pads.

Should the old manky bolt(s - there are two - just one without a hanger) be removed and the route left as a highball. much like piranha - white bait etc.

Or should decent loweroffs be placed on all these routes so they can be done to the top by those that wish, without the need to thrash up through the undergrowth to top out.

Thoughts ??

[shark]

I didn't know there was a bolt belay on Dragonflight - there didn't used to be. If so makes sense that there's one on Jezebal as well and in general I would say that the upper walls should have lower offs as they get overgrown and dirty pretty quickly and usually the decent climbing is on the lower half of the routes.

Also when I attempted to clean Millers Tale a while back I noticed there was a peg or bolt belay in the upper wall that could do with replacing. Be great if you cleaned that up (no retro bolts on the route  though please).   

[Hydraulic Man]

Agree its a good deed to replace the belay on Dragonflight as it has been in there since around 91 when Jim Kelly installed it.

Replacing Jezebel bolt is not a bad idea either.

On another note I don't see many comments about the bolts that have gone in on Garage buttress that interfere with some of the older trad routes. Matrix and Flycatcher been the routes in question.......Perhaps worthy of a separate thread.

[slackline]

On another note I don't see many comments about the bolts that have gone in on Garage buttress that interfere with some of the older trad routes. Matrix and Flycatcher been the routes in question.......Perhaps worthy of a separate thread.

Depends, are they covered in this thread?

[shark]

On another note I don't see many comments about the bolts that have gone in on Garage buttress that interfere with some of the older trad routes. Matrix and Flycatcher been the routes in question.......Perhaps worthy of a separate thread.

The topos are on Gibson's site. Can you be specific about which bolts on which routes interfere

http://www.sportsclimbs.co.uk/mainpages/peak/Garage%20Buttress.htm

I recall Neil Foster has passed comment on some of the new bolts interfering with existing routes at one of the previous Peak Area meets and was considering whether to remove them.
 

[Bonjoy]

Another vote for replacing the Jez bolt and Dragonflight lower off. If you have a spare 12mm hangar+nut the first one on Salar needs replacing (currently missing).

[SamT]

Another vote for replacing the Jez bolt and Dragonflight lower off. If you have a spare 12mm hangar+nut the first one on Salar needs replacing (currently missing).

Can do - Are they stainless.. if not - I might get round to replacing with resins.  Isn't the belay some weird 1 bolt and a peg arrangement.

[kc]

If you have a spare 12mm hangar+nut the first one on Salar needs replacing (currently missing).

The first bolt was a 10mm SSteel that was high up above the faint break. If there is a 12mm stud below then that is new. The belay bolts are spaced apart as one was above the original direct finish 8a+ and the newer one is above the easy lefthand finish 7c+/8a?
I would put a new pair somewhere in between so both can be worked on top rope.
The routes to the right may have a bolt and peg arrangement for the belays. This may have already been altered. Not sure?

[Bonjoy]

It was stainless but I could be wrong about it being 12mm, best bring both if you can.

[SamT]

Got a 12 and 10 hangers but no stainless nuts.. kris? Have you.

[kc]

loads or if you are going to sort the belay take one from there. It will be 10mm.

[Bonjoy]

The maillon on it is tiny and will need an adjustable spanner to remove. Could do with swapping for something bigger.

[SamT]

Just to be clear - I'm not suggesting we retro anything at rubicon walls.

I'm just replacing bolts and belays at the moment.

There is a question mark as to whether or not to put some loweroffs at the top of some of the routes. things like jezabel.  Topping out at Rubicon I imagine is a deeply unpleasant experience and with a popular footpath below, seems like a sensible idea to me.

This is not an Eastern Grit crag 

[El Mocho]

I climbed Jezebel, Kingfisher, A Miller's Tale etc a few years back. They were all really good. The top sections were pretty dirty and I don't really remember the belays being that inspiring - sorting the belays out would be great. Can't remember much about the state of the gear on the routes - don't think it felt too gnarly but I can't see an issue with replacing any existing bolts. Might be worth taking a long clipstick to reach the belays from the break?

[kc]

As mentioned before.

Nettle Buttress

Not too familiar with this but Stung is particularly bad.

This has see a fair bit traffic recently and I am surprised that so many seem not to notice or care.

It would be great for you to help sort some stuff out as we are all equipped and ready to go.
But will you join the queue of all the others that have said the same thing???

[kc]

Posted in wrong bit. Stupid thing.

[Wood FT]

kc I guess you meant to reply to my post.

I do care, they look shit, so I'd love to learn how to bolt and re-equip them, i'll ask around those who know. For now you can just add me to the queue as the proof is in the pudding.

[iain]

But will you join the queue of all the others that have said the same thing???

I've meant to get in touch for a while kc, I'd like to help but I'd need to be shown how.

If you, or someone else, is able I've got the time to help.

Hi Guy, were you with Mal last night? If so  , I should've introduced myself.

[danm]

KC, I've got a box of glue and spare nozzles to drop round if you are about on Friday.

If there are 2 or 3 people interested, who are keen and are really going to get involved and do some rebolting, I could do a quick workshop one evening. It's better me doing it in BMC time than zapping any of KC's remaining enthusiasm. 

If you are keen pm me and I'll fire off a Doodle link to set up a date. Will go to Horseshoe as we own it and it's quick to get to from Sheff.

I'll need to get my drill back first though, it's still on loan.

[SamT]

I'd be happy to turn up and lend a hand dan if its on a monday or tuesday (or friday eve) - include me on a doodle.

[Johnny Brown]

I could bring a drill and a pull-tester if I'm free and it would help...

[danm]

OK, as there seems to be some interest, let's do an evening workshop.

Venue: Horseshoe Quarry

Time: 6pm to 9pm, followed by a quick BMC funded pint and de-brief in the Moon Inn

Kit to bring: any bolting gear, drills you have, pull tester if you can bring it JB, scruffy clothes. Gloves and eye protection if you have it, will provide anything you don't have.

Sign up using the Doodle link http://doodle.com/ipqf2qgxqc589kk6

I'll post which date we go for once I've had a few responses.

[Wood FT]

OK, as there seems to be some interest, let's do an evening workshop.

Venue: Horseshoe Quarry

Time: 6pm to 9pm, followed by a quick BMC funded pint and de-brief in the Moon Inn

Kit to bring: any bolting gear, drills you have, pull tester if you can bring it JB, scruffy clothes. Gloves and eye protection if you have it, will provide anything you don't have.

Sign up using the Doodle link http://doodle.com/ipqf2qgxqc589kk6

I'll post which date we go for once I've had a few responses.

Cheers Dan!

Hi Guy, were you with Mal last night? If so  , I should've introduced myself.

Hi Iain, yes I was, good to meet you

[iain]

Thanks Dan, I've put in times.