[Fingers of a Martyr]

how many people on here can do a 1 arm pull up. if so how did u train up to doin it. performing negs and locks at the moment but it still feels a long way away. also any tips on how to get better locks at 90 and 120 wud be appreciated. can hold for about 4 seconds with no assistance and with other arm on bicep can go on forever. cheerz.

[unclesomebody]

just climb steep stuff, on jugs, and do some pull ups every now and then.  Then just do lock offs and slowly slowly it will happen.  The first time I saw a one armer done was when I went to one of those Neil Gresham sessions (back in the day) and he wsa blabbing on, then all of a sudden ripped a one armer.  I decided that day that I will be able to do one.  6 months later, I was suddently able to.  Just through lots of steep, powerful climbing.  However, they are totally pointless and only a good party piece...

the question is how many can you do?

[Fingers of a Martyr]

i would disagree with the 'totally useless' part but cheerz.

[unclesomebody]

hmmm... do you know of a route/problem I could put these strengths to use?  as far as I have seen, there is no problem that REQUIRES a one armer... you can always use your other arm, or your feet.... but if you find one that necessitates a one armer let me know

[dave]

i think being strong enough to do them is useful. actually doing them probably isn't useful per se at all.

the famous point in case (wether its true or not) is the old "dave graham can't do a one armer" thing.

[Stu Littlefair]

Body strength in climbing is useful, but I reckon most climbers biceps are strong enough already. On a big lock you're more likely to be let down by your back or shoulders or stomach muscles than yer biceps.

It therefore follows that one-armers are as useless as climbing exercises come.

[Fingers of a Martyr]

i think that being strong enough to do them is very important but they are the ultimate test of the strength to weight ratio. if they're useless then why do top climbers such as parry, earl, moon and smith train them? however i totally agree that they're usless without the finger strength to back them up. think of it this way. if u can 1 arm dead hang first joint cimps and open hand then one amrers are totally neccesary.

as for the dave graham thing he don't need to do them cos he's clued to rock with his fingers so he can just slap and dyno for every small edge but a lot of people need to reach them statically or under a degree of control.

[Carnage]

Always struck me as a bit of a party trick. Or useful for showing the meatheads up in the gym. But thats about it. Never come across a problem with a move that can only be done through the use of a 1- armer.

Fingers are where its at.

[a dense loner]

after about 30 seconds locking off i get bored, mate sam n his mate paul used to lock off until they passed out in their heady trainin days. i did curls n negative one-armers to practice for one armers. i didn't do this for long tho, 3wks-a month. nowadays i find i can do one very easily or struggle to do one, there appears to be no rhyme or reason behind the two :?  i personally don't think they help at all, but i find them ok so who knows?

[cofe]

after about 30 seconds locking off i get bored, mate sam n his mate paul used to lock off until they passed out in their heady trainin days.

  stop it dense i'm crying    

i would have loved to see westie pass out though.........can it be arranged - kim could film it and sticj it on't net :up:

[clm]

i dont think they are important.  i am massively,hugely, enormously and obscenelystrong yet cant do a one armer.  itsall hype.  you guys are all thugs, all strength and no technique.

[dobbin]

I did a one armer in font once. Some people laughed at me. I haven't been back.

[Fingers of a Martyr]

hi guys, thought i'd just let u no that i , god knows how, managed to crank of my first one armer from 120 lock to full lock and back down. i was so surprised as i'd been bouldering for the previous two hours then had a two hours rest. i couldn't believe it . i did  it static as each centimetre seemed like an eternity when pulling up. can any of u do them on crimps? now that wud be useful to climbing, no?

[a dense loner]

stop it dense i'm crying  

i would have loved to see westie pass out though.........can it be arranged

i'm sure it can be arranged, i will take bets at what stage he stops laughin before goin under.  
not tried a one-armer off a crimp, doubt it very much tho

[Fingers of a Martyr]

do u them static or dynamic dense. as in one swift pull and you're up or does it takle while to get to full lock?

[a dense loner]

pretty slow, but you didn't see me climb today. don't matter if u can do em if you're toss at the crag. i was toss at the crag :cry:
doin em fast (i don't mean jerkin) n comin down real slow is also good, i should remember that i don't take my own advice tho :wink:

[a dense loner]

ps there are people on here who can do them a lot easier than me, but i've never liked them much anyway

[Fingers of a Martyr]

you're the only one replyin though :D  if u think u were bad at the crag u shud have seen me. simple 7b lip/roof. i've never been more angry in my life. fell off at the last move (not the crux) about 10 ten times then landed in sum sheep shit (brand new scarpa vision ruined ahhh:evil:  ). lol. good job there was ne one else around other wise wud have been reported or summit. scared all the sheep away with some loud obscenities though. lol

[Bonjoy]

If you really need to know about one armers check this link http://www.planetfear.com/climbing/forum/t.html?t=1183, be warned though don't blame me if your brain has turned to a rotten mush after wading thru 800+ postings of tedious muscle freak bullshit. I did like this one though:
[581/811] From KONG - Posted on Wed, May 26, 2004 at 9:52am hi my name is KONG, i am poor but warm-hearted. give me a moment and i will show you how to live a better life. can you help me i need to find a turkish tortoise, any kind will do but preferably one with a booofont wig and clicky claws and droopy eyes and cracky tough shell, with eyes like fire on water when oil is burned in a ring around my boat, on the pond, in the park, while you stood laughing on the bank throwing breadcrumbs and gravel;-(.
 :D

[T.H.]

I was keeping an eye on that thread too, but after the 500th post I gave up.  What a bunch of w*ankers.

Anyway, Blondie, it appears that one armers are decidedly uncool, but personally I've found them to be very good training.  I agree with most people that no climbing involves a one-arm pull-up, but that is not why people train them.  I do them as part of a whole training package designed to get stronger, and therefore make things easier.

I'd suggest you've got two ways of improving.  The eccentric contraction training method where you pull up with two arms, and then remove one hand and as slowly as possible lower yourself down, adding weight as it gets easier.  Or the complicated method where you put up a pulley system to remove some of your weight so that you can do a few one armers, reducing the weight as you get stronger.  Either way is going to get you stronger and in no time you should have a great party trick.

Remember, you only need to train a muscle group in this way two or three times a week, any more and you won't improve, and you'll be heading towards a good dose of tendonitis.

[Doylo]

that planetfear one armer thread had a right load of hommes on it, fucking scary it was.

[Fingers of a Martyr]

the thread is interesting. two very different opinions from vince and samson both claiming they get the best results. going to failure or not is the big thing they disagree on. both seem to know their stuff. i'd go with samson failure isn't the way to go. aaaaah stop calling them a party trick they're pretty much the ultimate strength test which WILL :!:  translate into (with the finger strength to back it up) being a better boulderer.

[T.H.]

Sorry Blondie, I was only joking when I called it a party trick.  Keep training.

I agree with you about front levers aswell, the owen.  http://www.ukbouldering.com/media/images/timFrontLever.jpg   :

[Fingers of a Martyr]

impressive. is that u?

[dave]

less impressive when you notice his knees are archored to the roof - CHEAT.