[Doddify]

Hi,

I knackered a tendon pulley in the index finger of my right hand a few months ago - very painful. Initially it didn't seem that bad so I tried to carry on climbing lightly (bad idea) and stepped up the boxing to keep my fitness up (even worse idea). Anyway, I made it far worse.

I seem to be able to boulder again now and am starting back a couple of times a week, I keep tape around it and it's still a bit painful but it doesn't feel like I have done it any more damage or that it's getting worse after bouldering sessions - in fact it feels like it's getting better although I am stopping when it starts to ache after an hour or so.

Is there anything I can do to a) protect it other than taping it and avoiding crimps and pinches on it and; b) encourage it to heal properly and quickly.

[mrjonathanr]

Historically I've taped it damn near rigid, started out open handing everything that's not a huge jug  and gently built up the level of stress when climbing progressively over many weeks.

There does come a point eventually when it needs actively pushing and a little post-activity soreness leaves it feeling stronger and less sore with that level of stress next session. I've found this to be about 3 months post injury, but that's just my experience.

Google Dave McLeod's warm water treatment (Lewis Reaction). Failing that ice it after exercise. Treat cold tissues gently, they are vulnerable while in that condition.

[Doddify]

Cheers, I have been trying to really avoid putting too much stress on it but at the same time getting back into bouldering - it's proper depressing being stuck at 6A+ though.

I went again last night with it just taped quite tightly in front of the top knuckle and it feels fine this morning. I have a decent grip with it now and I can just about click my fingers!

Just realised, in my first message I said it was my index finger, it's not - it's my middle finger. Such an inconvenient finger to damage - very hard to work around it and not use it. When I did my third finger last year it was pretty easy to find work arounds.

[Gritter]

I've found H taping beneficial on the two pulley injuries I've had, but knowing when to stop taping was the difficult thing for me. I taped for too long on the first injury I had and it took a lot longer to heal than my second. I  warmed up without tape on my second injury to gauge the progress before a session.

[HPclinic]

Hi, just to let you know we have a Q and A session regarding any climbing (or non climbing injuries) injuries on this site. We are experienced Physiotherpists at the Hallamshire Physiotherapy clinic in Sheffield. Every Friday we look at our link (click onto page 3 of the home page) and answer questions and give out advice.
You have been given some good advice. As you will probably know each finger has 5 pulleys and the A3-5 are the more common ones injured. As with any injury you look at potential causes and mechanisms of injury. Always monitor the amount as well as the intensity of your climbs. Usually injuries occur through cumulative stress and sudden changes in volume and intensity.
When recovering from pulley type injuries, initially back off the grades and sometimes (depending whether you have fully ruptured the pulley - normally hear a loud "pop") even stop. Start again with easy grades and jug type holds. If symptoms are just mild discomfort then slowly add crimping holds. Increase as symptoms allow. If it becomes too painful then back off and only increase when symptoms are controlled.
Some good specific type exercises are curling and uncurling your fingers against a resistance (see last response on page 10 of our Q and A. Go to home page and our link is on pg 3) making sure each joint is controlled and not snapping back too early.
Strapping fingers is debatable but I would always recommend it as it certainly will not harm you and climbers report that the "H" taping seems to help.
If you continue to have problems or you find that you are getting other finger problems then it is worth getting reviewed by a Physio as you may need your shoulder strength/stability looking at as well as your thoracic and trunk mobility.
Hope this helps.
regards
Matt

[Doddify]

Cheers, that's really helpful. I think it was quite a clear rupture as there was an audible pop that other guys in the bouldering room heard. Ouch.