[miso soup]

Probably, it's not as if the setters were noobs.  Sounds like a bit of a shambles all round.  People are also saying it was someone in the crowd rather than a judge who called the dab.  Only on Twitter and Youtube comments thus far though, that one's yet to be confirmed by a reliable source.

[r-man]

It's pretty crap but a dabs a dab

Not in a comp it's not unless the rules have changed. It has to be seen to have helped you hold a swing or similar, so minor, even audible scuffs can be let go.

The rules seem pretty clear:

7.9.5
An attempt on a boulder shall be considered unsuccessful if the competitor...

e)Touches the ground with any part of the body

[rodma]

Good find. Don't really know if it has changed or not.

I just know from being a frustrated competitor(6 plus years ago so easily will have changed ) that I had stepped off when dabbing on a low traverse start on 3 successive attempts and others carried on without penalty. When I questioned the powers that be they said it's was at the judge's (or chief judge's) discretion.

I don't think I've ever read the full rules. I guess Tim hatch would know. You soul be told to stop if you have done Something wrong at the start of the problem, rather than bring allowed to carry on and then told.

I didn't watch the comp so have no idea, but it wouldn't really be a sporting event without someone feeling hard done by.


Sent from my C6833 using Tapatalk

[Fiend]

Just rewatched that section several times. Very hard to see from the angle, the only thing that indicates a dab is that she flicks her foot up very quickly just after she cut loose - maybe it was the tiniest of dabs and that was her trying to prevent it. It's a pity because although the quoted rules are clear that is the minimum of dabs I've seen.

[jwi]

Looked like a dab to me. Bad luck.

[Sasquatch]

The reaction makes it look like a dab on the first go, but her next go she does almost the exact same thing.  It's hard to say.  If she doesn't get another gold, she'll have every right to feel pretty hard done by.....

[jwi]

Why are there so few female setters? For bouldering the setters seems to struggle with getting the level just right for the women. Separating the first three on 4/4, 4/5 and 4/5 is hardly ideal (and sometimes the opposite happens : people win with just 2 tops). Female setters would maybe not struggle so much with getting the level right?

[GraemeA]

Why are there so few female setters? For bouldering the setters seems to struggle with getting the level just right for the women. Separating the first three on 4/4, 4/5 and 4/5 is hardly ideal (and sometimes the opposite happens : people win with just 2 tops). Female setters would maybe not struggle so much with getting the level right?

Q1 agreed. But the rest ignores the fact that Shauna says quals in China was the best setting she has ever seen in a WC.

Female setters would struggle because there are no female setters at the required level. I don't know why this is and whilst at the BMC I certainly tried to encourage it but they just don't exist in the UK.

[miso soup]

That La Sportiva Legends Only comp that Mellisa la Neve set was one of the better comps I've watched, and I pondered this a bit while watching it.  Jimmy Webb said he thought one of the problems was 8B+ and unless I'm mistaken I'm fairly sure Melissa has never climbed 8B+.  Could Jacky actually climb all these problems nowadays?  Or is that not what you meant by 'level?'

[iwasmexican]

That La Sportiva Legends Only comp that Mellisa la Neve set was one of the better comps I've watched, and I pondered this a bit while watching it.  Jimmy Webb said he thought one of the problems was 8B+ and unless I'm mistaken I'm fairly sure Melissa has never climbed 8B+.  Could Jacky actually climb all these problems nowadays?  Or is that not what you meant by 'level?'

Good setting can have surprisingly little to do with how strong (more so strong than actually good at climbing) the setter is. I briefly climbed with this guy *namedrop* once before one of the world cups and we were both struggling on the same 7Aish problem. I think good setting has more to do with having as large as possible experience of different styles and movements, and also knowing the appropriate difficulty for the situation, maybe more so than actually being able to do every move.

[miso soup]

That was my thinking.  Evie Cotrulia and Jackie Sequeira both set pretty good.  That's two...

(edit: spelt Evie's name wrong.)

[GraemeA]

That La Sportiva Legends Only comp that Mellisa la Neve set was one of the better comps I've watched, and I pondered this a bit while watching it.  Jimmy Webb said he thought one of the problems was 8B+ and unless I'm mistaken I'm fairly sure Melissa has never climbed 8B+.  Could Jacky actually climb all these problems nowadays?  Or is that not what you meant by 'level?'

Melissa didn't actually set all of the problems at the Legends. Boulders in World Cups are no where near as hard as in the Legends which is a worked comp.

[r-man]

I just tried to look at the world rankings on the ifsc website. Doesn't seem to be working. Can I get to them some other way?

I tried here:
https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/rankings

[turnipturned]

That Website does my head in, its awful. I can't seem to get the Full Results list link working either?!?

[Duma]

https://www.thebmc.co.uk/shauna-coxsey-within-sight-of-gold-in-azerbaijan

[peewee]

Try the old website here https://egw.ifsc-climbing.org/?page_name=ranglist

[miso soup]

Boulders in World Cups are no where near as hard as in the Legends which is a worked comp.

I know, that was part of my point/question.  Given that climbing world cup level problems is not a requirement for setting them were you saying that in your opinion none of the female setters in the UK (/world) set well enough for world cups?

(I'm not necessarily arguing with this if it is what you're saying, I know what I like climbing but don't consider myself any kind of authority on setting or world cups.  Just not sure I understood your post.)

[r-man]

Try the old website here https://egw.ifsc-climbing.org/?page_name=ranglist

Thanks!

[highrepute]

Boulders in World Cups are no where near as hard as in the Legends which is a worked comp.

I know, that was part of my point/question.  Given that climbing world cup level problems is not a requirement for setting them were you saying that in your opinion none of the female setters in the UK (/world) set well enough for world cups?

(I'm not necessarily arguing with this if it is what you're saying, I know what I like climbing but don't consider myself any kind of authority on setting or world cups.  Just not sure I understood your post.)

I believe graeme was trying to say; there are qualifications required to set a WC and currently no women have these qualifications. This is what he meant when he said level.

[a dense loner]

i'll go one further and say he meant they were shit at setting. for instance for one of the comps at the works the guest setter was none other than alex puchio, the few guys involved threw problems up all day while alex contemplated zen or some shit. in other words she did absolutely nothing, it took her all day to basically do one problem which matt ended up putting all the holds on after the number 2 with her stood there saying "no further, bigger pinch, i'm tired now after all that stress". so in my humble opinion she may be one of the strongest climbers in the world but couldn't set jelly. i've not seen any other women set a problem. the point people make about women setting for women is absurd.

[a dense loner]

the other point i was going to make but didn't in the above should have included setting is basically a full time job for people to get good at. you know the difference immediately when even a good setter decided he needed a break and just threw the last couple of holds up. the women that are at the world cups are too busy climbing/training/competing to route set. i don't think many men of that standard set either do they?

[miso soup]

I believe graeme was trying to say; there are qualifications required to set a WC and currently no women have these qualifications. This is what he meant when he said level.

Thanks, I had no idea you need needed a ticket to bolt holds to a wall.  That's pretty stupid but explains a lot.

[a dense loner]

You don't need a ticket to bolt holds to a wall. You need a ticket to prove to all the other people that have got the ticket that you can do the same work under the same conditions in the same environment. Anyone can bolt holds to a wall not anyone can set a good boulder/route.

[Durbs]

So aside from Dabgate, which no-one wanted to see (even Anna) still think it was a bit of a weak comp.

I really don't want to grumble about something I've not paid to see, but in terms of constructive criticism, there was a lot of room for improvement.

Plus points:
James co-commentating. I really like Dan's commentary, but always find it more interesting with a co-commentator, especially when it's a competitor. Top-stuff, keep it up.

Video feed quality - not the camera-work (obvs) - but having just downloaded it in HD from YouTube, the actual picture quality is great.

Room for improvement:
Camera-work - Not sure what they were filming on, but needed either a wider lens, a couple of steps back, or a filming platform.  They seem to be shying away from split-screen so far this season, which is frustrating as when done well it works.

Spectators - Harking back to my earlier question about "Why Azerbaijan?". Obviously you can't dis-regard the funding, but a crowd of 80 people, most of which were probably the competitors ain't great. I gather there's not an indoor wall in Baku, nor apparently any local climbing, so probably not much of a scene there to draw a crowd. Odd. Just felt for the competitors.

Anyhoo - back in Europe this weekend, so hopefully will be back on track. Think a lot of the Youtube comments were overly harsh (as always). Keep up the great job Team IFSC - and come on Shauna!

[GraemeA]

The internet was the one stand out amazing thing in Baku, it was 147 Mb upload, Johnny (the Horizon desk johnny) was coming in his pants when he was doing the speed tests. "Better than Korea" was all he could say - apparently Korean internet is the benchmark.

They did build platforms for the cameras as per the requirements, but then they put the boulders on a stage that was higher than the platforms.

The cameramen were a bug problem. They spoke no English so it was impossible to direct them. And then 2 of them disappeared half way through the finals.