[Duma]

replays up on Wed according to IFSC on FB

[Duma]

little write up and some pics here:
http://news.climbing.de/ifsc-boulderworldcup-2014-in-chongqing-jule-wurm-and-jan-hojer-win/

[Lund]

R.e. Finding results; it is always weirdly in the calendar section as opposed to the results section until the event is complete (afaik). That's how I found the qualifiers and semi results before the final started this morning.

You can use the app - search for "IFSC boulder 2014" on the iphone store.  Pretty good, results in real time, free.

[iwasmexican]

dmitrii was super impressive, seemed a level above everyone else, just unlucky on the jumpy problem.

He is just about the only climber that is makes it to every finals of world cups, his consistency is unreal... My moneys on him, Hojer got lucky the dividing problem was his style

[highrepute]

[jwi]

Nice! Dimitri looked strong, but Hojer topped all problems, what more can you ask? 4 tops in 26 attempts is a bizarre score though...

The germans look strong on weird problems.

[Muenchener]

The germans look strong on weird problems.

They are coached by Udo Neuman

[Durbs]

Good comp, but strangely un-atmospheric in some way... (perhaps that was just me?). Maybe it's the outdoors just sucks all the sound away apart from the god-awful music.

Personally not a fan of the dyno for M1 - means everyone racked up lots of attempts on the first problem.

But OMG - Anna not on a podium?! Madness.

Question for Graeme (or anyone else who knows) - 2 comps in China, 1 in Azerbaijan (despite the lack of top climbers from these countries), yet no World Cup rounds in the UK. Why are these destinations chosen? Are they trying to spread the IFSC gospel or is that where the funding is? Just seems strange not to have any rounds here (except the pre-season CWIF), but 2 in China which isn't greatly known for it's bouldering...

[GraemeA]

If you don't apply then you don't get chosen. Simples 

But you are correct, it is where the money is. China has stacks of cash and has cities bidding to the CMA to host events. Azerbaijan has oil (and it appears the President of the Climbing Federation is the Oil Minister). Sheffield is stoney broke which is why the BBC is at The Works this year.

There was no atmosphere because the Chinese crowds behave differently. When Anna and Akiyo try to rally the crowd the crowd responds for 5 seconds. When someone tops the applause last 5 seconds. It's strange but the athletes are sort of used to it now, it felt really strange 3 years back with 10,000-15,000 people making no noise.

[flyguy]

Is today's final on at 1, it says +5 gmt time it starts at 17:00
 I always miss it because of my inability to grasp this simple concept

[fried]

I have the same fundamental problem but luckily there's now a timer on the Youtube IFSC page. Starts in 45mins.

[flyguy]

Excellent cheers.

[miso soup]

Commentators basically admitting that M2 is morpho as shit and short-arses are fucked...

[dontfollowme]

Didn't realised Pucio had switched to Scarpa.

[Duma]

What the fucking fuck ??

[miso soup]

Shauna just lost first place for a dab.  Total bullshit.

[miso soup]

They can't even say for sure if she did dab because the cameras are so shit, there's been at least two complaints about loose holds and the clock doesn't work.

[flyguy]

It's pretty crap but a dabs a dab. I usually enjoy these live streams but had to endure today's.

[tomtom]

I thought the commentary was better than the last one I saw - but the event looked a bit Heath Robinson..

[flyguy]

I don't mind the commentary just found the camera work a bit frustrating and felt for the climbers with all the mess ups with the timings.

[tommytwotone]

Dabgate from 1hr 42mins-ish here:

[rodma]

It's pretty crap but a dabs a dab

Not in a comp it's not unless the rules have changed. It has to be seen to have helped you hold a swing or similar, so minor, even audible scuffs can be let go.

[flyguy]

Not aware of comp rules. If it was outside and I wanted the tick it would be back around. Guess it is pretty harsh when such a minor thing can cause such a difference in results, the rules need to be clear and possibly the setting needs to do its best to eliminate this?

[miso soup]

The commentator seemed to think it wouldn't count as an attempt.  It was the first move, it's not like it gave her any advantage.  And if the setting had been better it wouldn't have happened, and if the filming had been better we'd at least know for sure if it had happened or not.

[dontfollowme]

One interview said the matting arrived late which may have impacted on setting.