[Fiend]

Agreed (as a punter for whom this reasonably challenging), it's all about gastoning up the groove a way until your established.

P.S. 7 Ball, nice name  :wink:

[LJ]

Tommytwotone thats exactly how i have been trying it, i get to the position u get in then pop me right toe on the crimpy edge and then bear hug and bring my left foot around t'other side of the arete. Then keep squeezin and pressin, however at this point i fall off and start hyperventalatin! Seen it done this way but did think it felt far too hard! Will be tryin this new beta mayb tomorro

[tommytwotone]

word to yo moms LJ. My beta is indeed wack, sure D-Note's certainly sounds easier.

It's me last day at work today, got 2 weeks off before I start new job so will be aiming to tick it by then, along with BF direct and Remergence!

[Teaboy]

Is the sheep really only B6, feels impossible.

[dave]

its another one of those peak soft-touches we here so much about!

[Teaboy]

What's the opposite of grade creep? I think us crap boulderers are being shafted by it anyway, what with the publication of north Wales bouldering and all.

[dave]

don't think there can be an opposite to creep, unless its uncreep. i mean creep doesn't have a direction implicitly associated with it does it?

with that Sheep thing youve got to press really hard with your foot in the crack, hit the flared grove at the top, not at the bottom, but higher up alsmot as slopey gaston, and maintain the foot pressure between right gaston hand and left foot (can do some good oposing toe-elavator-dooring) to get the best bit and match up, then its OK.

is that possible from a sitter, jamming out of the crack? i recon it'd be savage.

[jonP]

don't think there can be an opposite to creep, unless its uncreep. i mean creep doesn't have a direction implicitly associated with it does it?

I think we need to do something about the insidious effects of grade uncreep.  I mean, take Right Unconquerable at Stanage for example - it's been HVS for years.  At this rate it's never going to be VS or E1.  We can't let this situation continue.

[dave]

don't worry, i think ?ockfax have already got grade-uncreep-prevention covered.

[jonP]

Perhaps a voting system where you can't vote for the current grade would help.

[webbo]

i always thought the grade of a problem[or route] was the highest published one you could find.that is unless you feel it's under graded. :wink:

[Fiend]

Perhaps a voting system where you can't vote for the current grade would help.

ROFLMAO!!!    :lool:  

[BoulderHog]

The sheep would get 7A in Font I'm sure, but then Font has some criminal grading going on so probably isn't the best comparison.

I think some kind of a phone in vote show, perhaps on BBC 1, hosted by Philip 'the grey' Schofield, each week they could concentrate on a new area, with a game show sideline where contestants from the audience could do a high / low bet for each problem to see how it will move. Now that's entertainment

[dave]

I'd like to see Kate "whythefuckissheonthetelly" thornton gushing about why she just loves gritstone, and robbie williams.

[BoulderHog]

I wasn't sure who she is, obviously I would need to see some of her work to swap Philip, but judging by the pictures I just found with a search, she gets the job  

Although Phil (as I call him, buddies you see) is a great guy, a little known fact is that his middle name is actually 'Saturdaynightblandentertainmentmaestro' bit of a mouth full which is why he doesn't tell many people, but an awesome foresight from his parents I think you'll agree. Anyway, maybe have them both hosting the show? Kate could do the field work and repeat some of the harder lines in a thong.

[Bubba]

Perhaps a voting system where you can't vote for the current grade would help.

We've already not got a voting system - does that count?

[Bubba]

Kate "whythefuckissheonthetelly" thornton

I think she's yummy. And not doing a bad job on the hilarious X-Factor

[a dense loner]

am busy this wkend but may go n have to have a look some time. :D

[KH]

Thanks for the lists.

Got to the peaks this weekend, but the weather wasn't great!  Only managed to get an hour in between the rain, at Burbage South this afternoon.

After a quick look at the problems, I quickly got the Tiger problem done and  then had look at doing the Sheep problem.  What a difference in B6's, just getting onto the sheep problem seemed like B6, let alone getting to the groove.  I didn't get anywhere near doing it!

What's the beta on this?  Was laying off the crack with left hand, right hand in the pocket, left foot pushing in the crack and then kicking my right foot on to a small foothold.  The next move to the grove felt desperate!

[a dense loner]

Got to the peaks this weekend

where is this mythical place? do you mean "the peak" :wink:

[KH]

Yeah, yeah, whatever!

[dave]

What's the beta on this?  Was laying off the crack with left hand, right hand in the pocket, left foot pushing in the crack and then kicking my right foot on to a small foothold.  The next move to the grove felt desperate!

thats basically it.

[Ru]

Re Sheep problems:

is that possible from a sitter, jamming out of the crack? i recon it'd be savage.

Bin done. 7a+/7b I thought, mostly due to the pain of the jam.

[Bubba]

What a difference in B6's, just getting onto the sheep problem seemed like B6, let alone getting to the groove.  I didn't get anywhere near doing it!

it's undergraded at b6 imho.

does anyone else know this problem as "Sickle Crack"? not sure if that's it's real name or just one that me and the boys adopted.

[dave]

Re Sheep problems:

is that possible from a sitter, jamming out of the crack? i recon it'd be savage.

Bin done. 7a+/7b I thought, mostly due to the pain of the jam.

word!