[dave]

the UK's answer to Yosemite. Majestic valley surrounded by soaring alabasters of finest gritstone. contains the full gamete of climbing, from the hardest of boulder problems to the hardest trad routes, multi-pitch, aid routes and easy bumbl-a-thons. Classic test peices aboud, climbing possible all year and most weathers. Well served by both icecream vans and air ambulances this is the prime venue to either push yourself beyond your limit, or kick back with yo' niggaz. Steady tide of walkers and families mean you need never be without an audience. Only 5 minutes drive from the nearest chalk, tape and ibuprofen shops.

Perfection.

[squeek]

Perfection.

But I thought it was Gritstone?!    :hidesofa:  

[cofe]

Perfection.

But I thought it was Gritstone?!    :hidesofa:  

we WILL send the boys round - plus we know what you look like now....and we might 'run into' you this weekend..... :wink:

[Fiend]

from the hardest of boulder problems to the hardest trad routes, multi-pitch, aid routes and easy bumbl-a-thons

LOL    That would be 3 multi-pitch (Silent Spring, Simpering Savage, Higgar Girdle), and 1 aid route (underside of the Cioch if there's any bolts left), then....hardly El Cap is it  :D


P.S. I haven't really kicked back with ma niggaz there, am I doing something wrong??

[Sloper]

contains the full gamete of climbing  :shock:

I've heard burbage south called wank, but ..... :?

[fatboySlimfast]

ahem!

Gametes—also known as sex cells, germ cells, or spores—are the specialized cells that come together during fertilization (conception) in organisms that reproduce sexually. In those species that produce two morphologically distinct types of gametes, and in which a particular individual produces only one type, "females" of the species produce the larger gamete called an ovum (or egg) and "males" produce the smaller gamete termed (in animals) a spermatozoon (or sperm). The equivalent "male" structure in higher plants is called a pollen grain. Organs that produce gametes are called gonads in animals, and archegonia or antheridia in plants.

Gametes are haploid cells; that is, they contain one complete set of chromosomes (the actual number varies from species to species). When two gametes unite (typically in animals, involving a sperm and an egg), they form a zygote—a cell having two complete sets of chromosomes and therefore diploid. The zygote cell receives one set of chromosomes from each of the two gametes involved in the union. After fusion of the two gamete nuclei, and after multiple cell divisions and cellular differentiation, a zygote develops, first into an embryo, and ultimately into a mature individual capable of producing gametes. Gametes from a mature diploid individual will be produced in the gonadal tissue through meiosis—a process of cellular division that reduces the number of sets of chromosomes from two to one (i.e., produces haploid gametes).

The diploid somatic cells of an individual will contain one copy of the chromosome set from the sperm and one copy of the chromosome set from the egg—that is, the cells of the offspring will have genes expressing characteristics of both the "father" and the "mother". A gamete's chromosomes are not exact duplicates of either of the sets of chromosomes carried in the somatic cells of the individual that produced the gametes. They can be "hybrids" produced through genetic recombination or "crossing over" of chromosomes, something that takes place in meiosis. This hybridization has a random element and the chromosomes tend to be a little different in every gamete an individual produces. This recombination, and the fact that the two chromosome sets ultimately have come from either a grandmother or a grandfather on each parental side, account for the genetic dissimilarity of siblings.

so now you know........what this has to do with Burbage valley i dont know?

[dave]

isn't it obvious?

[Paz]

I know that's a nice definition, but I bet you at some point in time, some one has also used Gamete to refer to the complete set of chromosones itself....

Dave on 9/7/2004 for a start

[KH]

Looking to spend some time here over the weekend.

Anyone got a list of around 10-15 classic B5-B7 problems worth getting on?

[Scouse D]

Up on the edge theres
B5 arete above 1st quarry
B5 overlap thing about 20 metres away
B5 10m left of pebble mill
B7 "mini 8 ball" sitstart prow
B6 next to this up arete
B8 Attitude inspector (more like B6)
B6 (V5) sit start roof Left of attitude ispector
B5 Aret next to recurring nightmare

On the boulders
that B3 up the pock marks on pock block
B6 The Sheep-quality
B6 Variation on the Sheep (RH in crack)
B4 Sheep arete
B6 Tiger

Up near the edge (further along)
B6 triangular boulder- sit start up front face

Good ticklist that

[tommytwotone]

release yo delf on:

Burbage North:

Banana finger plus all the various eliminates and ting, esp the direct
Remergence, plus the shizzle ont' arete thing to the left

Burbage South Boulders:

Pac Man (the slab thing on the pock block)
Arete ont rabbit boulder
Scoop/slab on useful boulder
Tiger
Panzer (think that's the traverse of the bit near Tiger)

Burbage South Edge:

That B7 slopey arete thing in the guide
Various aretes near the quarries

[dave]

I'll add Pock Man sans chips, B5


Burbage North/Bridge:

Arete at bridge B5
Wall right of this B6
Wobble block B6
Banana Finger B4
Banana Finger Direct B5
Reverse Banana B7
Left arete of Remergance block (from low break) B6
the 2-sloper version of this B8
Remergence B6
Arete right of jasons B7
Enthusiast B5
Niccotine Stain B6

then over to west for:

arete R of westworld B6 (harder on right)
Undercut thing there B6
Nose B8 (anyone done this?)
Dyno left of crowman (B7 with RH in undercut, harder version with LH in UC)
Breakfast B6

[tommytwotone]

I'll add Pock Man sans chips, B5

word.

did that a while back, also came soooo close to getting with chips but one handed...

[dave k]

I have climbed the nose- what you want to know? B8 is about right.

[dave]

is it any good? might go and have  acrack this weekend. anyone fancy it? dense?  :wink:

[Jim]

:321:

[ian h]

where abouts on the edge is the b7 mini 8 ball on scouses list ? :?:

[Pantontino]

Kind of a central area of free standing boulders - halfway between Pebble Mill and the Attitude Inspector area.

There is a cool looking project line here just up and left from Jason's mantel: obvious sds from a side pull into problem 16 on page 92 of the Rockfax guide. Also: Impossible Groove, sds to Little Rascal, low start to Intense, slopey trav across lip of Def 5.11 boulder, etc...

Burbage South Edge - it's the place to be, I ain't shittin ya!

[ian h]

cheers simon gonna attempt to get up there tomorrow although weather looks a bit hit and miss on the forecast i checked

will try and seek out the mini 8 ball, like the sound of it

[Fiend]

It's fun....and easy, more like V4 than B7. Definitely a cool little problem though.

[dave]

the trick wi that 7-ball thing is to work up the groove, only going for the arete righ near the top. loads of people make life hard for themselves by going really low on the arete which is unneceesry, and probably making it feel like 8b.

[LJ]

Yeah Dave i do that and could be the reason why i cant do it! i get the arete right at the bottom before slapping up the groove with the right, then i think i slap up arete before bear hugging (havent been on it in a while, hence sketchy memory), then i think i fall off. Whats the easier flava with this then?

[dave]

just basically layback up the groove, right foot on the ledge on the right.

[tommytwotone]

word. this is one of my most frustrating projects fo' sho'...

here's my raky beta, sure I'm making it hard for myself:

sit start
left hand on crimpy/slopey thing
right foot up
cross over, right hand on bottom sloper of groove
left hand slaps round arete
slap up again with right to poor sloper
slap up again with right to decentish sloper
attempt to slap left hand up
try and get right foot on...fall off
rub my bad arm a bit and mutter about 'painful body position'

am i better sacking the arete off completely then?

sorry Dave, you got in first - I'll take that as a yes then  

[dave]

yhea sack the arete off. i can't remember my exact sequence, but its some thing like start on the good holds, swing left hand gastoning the sloper at bottom of groove, match it. then bring left had up to next sloper, againa  bit of a gaston, then right foot on starting hold, then press it out for RH up on the next groove hold. then you've one move away froma  "jug" groove hold, so either pull through for it with left, or snatch again with right, then you're on the B3 bit. jobzaguddun.

[Fiend]

Agreed (as a punter for whom this reasonably challenging), it's all about gastoning up the groove a way until your established.

P.S. 7 Ball, nice name  :wink:

[LJ]

Tommytwotone thats exactly how i have been trying it, i get to the position u get in then pop me right toe on the crimpy edge and then bear hug and bring my left foot around t'other side of the arete. Then keep squeezin and pressin, however at this point i fall off and start hyperventalatin! Seen it done this way but did think it felt far too hard! Will be tryin this new beta mayb tomorro

[tommytwotone]

word to yo moms LJ. My beta is indeed wack, sure D-Note's certainly sounds easier.

It's me last day at work today, got 2 weeks off before I start new job so will be aiming to tick it by then, along with BF direct and Remergence!

[Teaboy]

Is the sheep really only B6, feels impossible.

[dave]

its another one of those peak soft-touches we here so much about!

[Teaboy]

What's the opposite of grade creep? I think us crap boulderers are being shafted by it anyway, what with the publication of north Wales bouldering and all.

[dave]

don't think there can be an opposite to creep, unless its uncreep. i mean creep doesn't have a direction implicitly associated with it does it?

with that Sheep thing youve got to press really hard with your foot in the crack, hit the flared grove at the top, not at the bottom, but higher up alsmot as slopey gaston, and maintain the foot pressure between right gaston hand and left foot (can do some good oposing toe-elavator-dooring) to get the best bit and match up, then its OK.

is that possible from a sitter, jamming out of the crack? i recon it'd be savage.

[jonP]

don't think there can be an opposite to creep, unless its uncreep. i mean creep doesn't have a direction implicitly associated with it does it?

I think we need to do something about the insidious effects of grade uncreep.  I mean, take Right Unconquerable at Stanage for example - it's been HVS for years.  At this rate it's never going to be VS or E1.  We can't let this situation continue.

[dave]

don't worry, i think ?ockfax have already got grade-uncreep-prevention covered.

[jonP]

Perhaps a voting system where you can't vote for the current grade would help.

[webbo]

i always thought the grade of a problem[or route] was the highest published one you could find.that is unless you feel it's under graded. :wink:

[Fiend]

Perhaps a voting system where you can't vote for the current grade would help.

ROFLMAO!!!    :lool:  

[BoulderHog]

The sheep would get 7A in Font I'm sure, but then Font has some criminal grading going on so probably isn't the best comparison.

I think some kind of a phone in vote show, perhaps on BBC 1, hosted by Philip 'the grey' Schofield, each week they could concentrate on a new area, with a game show sideline where contestants from the audience could do a high / low bet for each problem to see how it will move. Now that's entertainment

[dave]

I'd like to see Kate "whythefuckissheonthetelly" thornton gushing about why she just loves gritstone, and robbie williams.

[BoulderHog]

I wasn't sure who she is, obviously I would need to see some of her work to swap Philip, but judging by the pictures I just found with a search, she gets the job  

Although Phil (as I call him, buddies you see) is a great guy, a little known fact is that his middle name is actually 'Saturdaynightblandentertainmentmaestro' bit of a mouth full which is why he doesn't tell many people, but an awesome foresight from his parents I think you'll agree. Anyway, maybe have them both hosting the show? Kate could do the field work and repeat some of the harder lines in a thong.

[Bubba]

Perhaps a voting system where you can't vote for the current grade would help.

We've already not got a voting system - does that count?

[Bubba]

Kate "whythefuckissheonthetelly" thornton

I think she's yummy. And not doing a bad job on the hilarious X-Factor

[a dense loner]

am busy this wkend but may go n have to have a look some time. :D

[KH]

Thanks for the lists.

Got to the peaks this weekend, but the weather wasn't great!  Only managed to get an hour in between the rain, at Burbage South this afternoon.

After a quick look at the problems, I quickly got the Tiger problem done and  then had look at doing the Sheep problem.  What a difference in B6's, just getting onto the sheep problem seemed like B6, let alone getting to the groove.  I didn't get anywhere near doing it!

What's the beta on this?  Was laying off the crack with left hand, right hand in the pocket, left foot pushing in the crack and then kicking my right foot on to a small foothold.  The next move to the grove felt desperate!

[a dense loner]

Got to the peaks this weekend

where is this mythical place? do you mean "the peak" :wink:

[KH]

Yeah, yeah, whatever!

[dave]

What's the beta on this?  Was laying off the crack with left hand, right hand in the pocket, left foot pushing in the crack and then kicking my right foot on to a small foothold.  The next move to the grove felt desperate!

thats basically it.

[Ru]

Re Sheep problems:

is that possible from a sitter, jamming out of the crack? i recon it'd be savage.

Bin done. 7a+/7b I thought, mostly due to the pain of the jam.

[Bubba]

What a difference in B6's, just getting onto the sheep problem seemed like B6, let alone getting to the groove.  I didn't get anywhere near doing it!

it's undergraded at b6 imho.

does anyone else know this problem as "Sickle Crack"? not sure if that's it's real name or just one that me and the boys adopted.

[dave]

Re Sheep problems:

is that possible from a sitter, jamming out of the crack? i recon it'd be savage.

Bin done. 7a+/7b I thought, mostly due to the pain of the jam.

word!

[ian h]

What's the beta on this?  Was laying off the crack with left hand, right hand in the pocket, left foot pushing in the crack and then kicking my right foot on to a small foothold.  The next move to the grove felt desperate!

thats basically it.

i found the easiest way to do it from being in the position of having left hand in crack and left foot pushing on the side of crack, right hand on sloper at bottom of groove .

was to then bring my right foot under and pull on the opposite side of the crack to what the left foot is pushing

i then found it easy to match my left hand next to my right and then move up

hope that is vaguely understanable :?

[dave]

was to then bring my right foot under and pull on the opposite side of the crack to what the left foot is pushing

yeah that exactly what i did, like elavator-door-ing but with your toes.

[ian h]

yeah is such a smart move.

hi on the slick move factor :

[Johnny Brown]

Wu wote:

Re Sheep problems:

Quote:
is that possible from a sitter, jamming out of the crack? i recon it'd be savage.


Bin done. 7a+/7b I thought, mostly due to the pain of the jam.

The only sitter I did here didn't finish the same way - instead you layback facing right and getting slopers with left hand. Really good, n no jammin. Similar grade - easy 7b.

[a dense loner]

yeah blubbs "sickle crack" is the name

[Jim]

yeah man
(sorry couldn't resist, what with all these yeah's going around))

[Mr.Fontainebleau!]

[
i found the easiest way to do it from being in the position of having left hand in crack and left foot pushing on the side of crack, right hand on sloper at bottom of groove .

was to then bring my right foot under and pull on the opposite side of the crack to what the left foot is pushing

i then found it easy to match my left hand next to my right and then move up

hope that is vaguely understanable :?[/quote]

Thats cool I did it with two fingers in the right pocket, hand in the left crack feet up and then a slap for the hold, don't know if thats harder or easier, probaly easier maybe