[abarro81]

Couple of questions for those in the know:

- What is 'Batman'? Is this the thing left of Bizarre Ride?
- What are the rules on Spiderman (aka gaston problem) - does this start as for Sean's then go out L to big broken crimp thing, then up to little rh crimp and lh gaston, rh to crimp round lip, finish on jugs of Sean's? Are heel-toes kosher or not?
- What the hell am I doing wrong on In Bulk - everyone on 8a says it's easy but to me it feels miles harder than hulk? Magic foot beta??

Thanks,
Alex

[fatdoc]

All too hard / didn't exist in my hey day part from in bulk.. Which I i did various times over a few years. And it got f@ckin hard after the foothold collapse.. iirc the right start foothold kinda doesnt exist?? it was green a bit far back... Then totally shed..

[monkey boy]

Batman is the thing left of Bizarre Ride. Starts in an often wet slot. Good little climb when it's dry I remember.

Spiderman officially starts as for Sean's sit ie. under the roof and goes out to the broken crimp yes but a lot of people start on the broken crimp. I think sean's start gives you the warranted 7c+ and any higher is 7c. I campussed the bottom in keeping with normal sean's but not sure about heel/toe rule. Doubt you are supposed to as it is a Travs problem I think and he likes it basic.

For In Bulk I used a higher left foot than I do for the Hulk. It's a really obvious boot rubbered sloper. Looks like a tiny version of the Thing sloper!

Hope this helps. Alternatively let me know when you are next going and I will come and give you the beta. I love this place!!

[abarro81]

Cheers Dave. Hopefully going back this weekend, will let ya know. Have you ticked the crag?

I love this place!!

Too right, best bouldering wall in the Peak IMO

[fatdoc]

If you have the dynamic power it's the best limestone bouldering in the country... IMHO now too old and frail opnion.

Soo cool to do the easy 7s stand ups on the right.

Even more so to do the figure of eight variations around Zippys..

Then Sean's, then a few others....

Right. Stop reminiscing.

Basically,  it's bloody good.

[dave]

As far as I know Spiderman/gaston isn't an eliminate so heels etc should be all gravy. However like Dave says its definitely a sit start underneath. Great problem.

[travs]

Sit start as Sean's and no heel toes on spider man and no intermediates between the broken hold and the good horizontal crimp. I don't know about 7c+, I thought hard 7c when I did it.

As Dave said, left foot goes in an obvious scallop (just above the break?) on In bulk. I think the grade on this is really height specific, if your foot stays on then easy 8a, if your foot has to come off then really hard 8a.

Do I take it Crag X is in nick?

[abarro81]

Lordy I'm weak. So what do you do with feet for that big move off the broken crimp then?

Yesterday most of it was dry, though spiderman and Cherokee lane were both wet

[monkey boy]

Hmmmm Spiderman felt harder than Sean's to me, low end 7C+ I reckon. Am glad my Crag X knowledge was up to scratch though! Haha! For the broken crimp move you just put a right toe around Sean's starting holds I seem to remember and lock till you see God.

You are right about being able to keep your foot on on In Bulk but it is a very bunched up position to go from if you are taller. Swings and Roundabouts!

I haven't done Mr. Furious of Ned's or Superman Sit. Yeah let me know.

[travs]

Put your left toe in the obvious scoopy thing out left and right foot off and then throw for the edge.

[slackline]

Put your left toe in the obvious scoopy thing out left and right foot off and then throw for the edge.

In, out, in out you shake it all-about.

[dave]

I did spiderman with a heel toe and also a high marginal heel on the tiny Sean's crimp, and used an intermediate. So by the law of retrospectively drawn up rules I haven't done it. But what I have done is now called Dave's Problem aka Batman (I.e. better than Spiderman) 7c/7c+ ***. First ascent motherfuckers.

[kc]

Is Batman a sit start on the far left and makes a big span around the roof with feet on the side wall? If so when was it done?

[a dense loner]

thats not what dave's saying kristian. you can stay lay claim to that prob, really good. what did you call it, was it 7c? my memory is going!

[kc]

Well I also called that "Batman" you see! Going back a bit now 2000/1. I was more familiar with V grades but maybe not quite that hard. Certainly a lot easier than Seans.

[dave]

Yeah but I doubt anyone is really going to be confused between "Batman" and "Dave's Problem aka Batman (I.e. better than Spiderman)" though are they? In fact I think this is the first time this has ever happened.

[Mark Lloyd]

Are we paying homage to trigger of only an only fools and horses by keep referring to monkey boy as dave

[dave]

Nah we're paying homage to his name being Dave, otherwise we'd be calling him rodney. After Dave.

[Dolly]

So where does Bizarre ride start/go then ? (scratches head a lot)

[highrepute]

[Dolly]

Cheers

[abarro81]

That's actually peckitts problem, bizarre is slightly left. On phone so can't search easily, but there's info o here if you search

[a dense loner]

Fucking brilliant. This is why 8a accounts and people doing eliminates shouldn't mix.

[abarro81]

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=15529.0
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,6407.msg210895.html#msg210895
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,11768.msg202694.html#msg202694

These should clear up the bizarre ride/Peckitt's Prob confusion. You could argue that they're two sequences on the same problem, but this being peak lime they probably count as 2 separate problems...

[monkey boy]

I think they are the same problem but with two different sequences. Tom Newman and I did Bizarre Ride and then Nacho (I think?) showed Peckitt it as a project and he did it using different beta. He just basically repeated Bizarre Ride but thought it was an FA.

Although we gave Bizarre Ride an easier grade I think the beta is actually more difficult. Good movement whatever.