[shark]

11.5-7

M.
T. Malham. Up with Paul, Steve and Dave Ides. Grey and drizzly but no wind and good conditions. We were the only ones at the crag. Group warmup with me Paul and Steve dragging a dead sheep away from the right side of the catwalk (Dave was too squeamish). 2x F&EE and 1xConsenting. Put draws in Oak and repeatedly practiced throw. First redpoint got the horn  had to readjust twice which got me tired and only just pulled through to the clip. Wasnt able to recover at horn so sketched right and fell setting up to go for sloper which equals previous best from 2012. Felt battered after this go. Had a long rest and walked round top of Cove. Hopeless goes from ground. Finished by reworking top section. Hopefully not a one-off getting to horn and alarmed by lack of redpoint stamina.
W.   
T.
F.  Malham. Drizzly. Lots of seepage. Oak wet. Almost a relief. Warmup Rose Coronaryx2 and Consentingx1. Sticked up to crux of Predator (had been on the first 7b+/c half once in 2012). Got some beta off Paul and once I understood it did what he thought is the crux. Two more goes back up it and got all the moves on the crux section. The moves really suit me and felt straightforward. Holds surprisingly good - much better than they look from Zoolook. . Got excited.
S.
S. Noon. Fingerboard session including intermittent hangs.

Had been run down all week and had assumed it was overtraining or plateauing or something especially the way I was wiped out after a single redpoint on tuesday. It wasnt till friday that the penny dropped (thanks Steve) that I had a low level cold. The sniffly nose should have given it away. Good to have got back to the previous highpoint on the Oak but currently more psyched for Predator now I've had a play. The crew won't let me off the hook so I'll be sticking with the Oak if it dries up next week. Been eating/drinking too much.   

[mindfull]

Whole week rest for wrist injury.

Sunday: easy climbing outdoors in Freyr (Belgium).

5a Infraction grave (lead)
5c Miss magie (lead)
6a+ Ceda el paso (second)
6c+ O' clock tick tock (redpoint attempt)

No significant repeats but the joy of feeling rock and having fun with friends :-)

[Muenchener]

STG (Easter): 6c+ redpoint
MTG (Summer) Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer)
    (Autumn) 7a redpoint.
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

M:   
T: Wall, Thalkirchen. Short, sharp finger training session. Half a dozen easy problems to warm up, four sets of one- and two finger exercises on system board, 40 minutes attempts on hard crimpy problems.
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Routes. Quickly became apparent that yesterday's little bouldering session left me without much by way of working fast twitch fibres, so moderate mileage session. 5c 5c 6a 6a+ 6a+ 6a+ 6a 5c 6a+ 5c.
T:
F: Wall, Thalkirchen. 3 rounds of boulder 4x4s. I suspect I'm doing these wrong: they are hard work, but more in a whole body / aerobic way; I'm not getting the advertised  crippling forearm pump. Problems too steep & juggy?
S: Wall, Boulderwelt. Another 3 rounds of boulder 4x4s. Tried to pick more fingery problems, but with much the same (wrong?) result as before: sweaty & breathing hard, but not especially pumped.
S: Hillwalking. Hohe Kisten UIIA Grade II redpoint campaign, day two. Backed off again fearing yet another deep snow epic. Avalanche debris on the path on the way down that wasn't there on the way up, so probably a good call. Think I'll steer clear of this one until the summer now.

[kelvin]

Need to set some goals - lost focus a little.

Mon - Boulder room was emptyish. Just had fun trying hard (for me) stuff until - foot popped on a V6 and jaw planted a big hold below my head. Tongue bit clean through and one chipped tooth. Good session till then.
Tue - Boulder room. Kept moving, much better on the overhangs. Foot on campus. 2m30s/2m/1m30s/1m20s with same rests. x2
Wed - Rest
Thu - Boulder room. Easy warm up then under the roof but knee sore. Tried the V6 for a while. Foot on Campus 3m/2m/1m. Battered at this point but top roped 3 6bs I hadn't been on. Definite improvement. Back in boulder room and try the V6 starting moves again.
Fri - Rest due to being mullered.
Sat - Robing Hood and Cratcliffe. No energy, bouldered appallingly but the mission was to improve footwork. Don't feel like I got anywhere, the friction was shocking on the slabs. Or maybe it was me. Highlight? Flashing that chipped hold ladder called Vandals. Yes, I was that bad. 9am till 4pm, so pretty knackered.
Sun - Hungover. I went out on the beer for the first time this year. Urgh. Yoga in a bit.

Goal for the week was to improve mileage. Achieved that. Fingers tweaky today tho and tips pretty raw.

The Stride has some very Font-esque boulders.

It's been pointed out (and I agree) that my footwork is neat enough but my weight transference and body movement is pretty rubbish. I'm not very flexible either. In fact I'd say it's the by far the biggest thing holding back my climbing, hence, the trying to up the mileage. Can't spend ages on routes indoors as it just trashes the knees and they need saving for outdoors, which is why I'm doing foot on campusing for PE instead of 4x4s. It's frustrating but upped the first go to 3min from 2min a couple of weeks back, so 50% better already. It showed on one of the 6bs, were I managed another 5 moves after getting pumped  That was a right surprise.

Must set new goals.

[duncan]

STG - Don’t get injured; 2 sessions a week with a rope on, emphasis on endurance.
MTG - LH&F BHAG in Yosemite this June (E5 OS this summer).
LTG - LH&F BHAGs in Dolomites, Alps etc. summer 2015 and beyond.


M - Shoulder stability / elbow rehab.
T - Building site fitness-lite
W - Step-ups
T - Westway routes x15 to 6b. Elbow fine.
F - Shoulder stability / elbow rehab.
S - Swanage with csl. We did four classics including Marmolada Buttress. Pulled a hold off the start of MB, the dark grey rock - the most solid-looking on the route - dinner-plating like ice. Fortunately I landed on the boulder rather than rattling down the crevasse. This was a bit disconcerting but I had a quiet word, csl was encouraging, and we got it done.
S - Elbow a bit sore today...

Saturday was glorious on the south coast. Boulder Ruckle was almost busy including a team with haulbag and portaledge. I'm not sure how amused they were when I pointed out El Cap was 5000 miles further west. All the routes we did had reassuringly hefty new stake belays - many thanks to those who put in the hard work here.

Pleased with MB, second day out on trad., first E3 of the year, a route that’s leered at me each of the 20 or more times I’ve abseiled into the Ruckle. “Come and have a go...” Like a lot of Swanage routes it’s bark is worse than it’s bite: it climbs well and there is good gear where it counts.

Elbow was fine with the easy stuff at the wall but E3 doesn’t count as easy for me and I’m a bit sore as a result. Hopefully it should settle and the confidence boost is worth a few days off this coming week. Can’t wait for Pembroke at Easter.

[csl]

Goals for March

Climb 3x a week 4/3
1x session a week on a rope. 2/1
2x outside 3/2
7b/E4/7A+ - E3.

Stay under 75kg. - under 74 this week.

Goals for Winter

V8/7B indoors/ Get stronger on Boulders
Book a sport trip. Done.

Mon
Tue - Biscuit. Strength + AnCap
Wed - Strength. Did White V7. Tried lots of hardest circuit. All moves done on a V8+.
Thu - Westway - New routes on the main wall. Onsighting up to 7a. Laps on a 6c on the main wall.
Fri - Rest
Sat - Boulder Ruckle.
Did an E2, Duncan walked up Marmolada Buttress, which was great.
I didn't try anything hard and probably should have - next time Wall of World's needs to go down.
Sun - Pottering at Rivelin. Should have at least tried one of the E4 aretes but group psyche didn't really point to that. Did a few of the classics, nice day out.

Aims for April
Endurance sessions twice a week.
Sport climbing once.
E4/5 in Pembroke.

[TobyD]

Can’t wait for Pembroke at Easter.

along with 75% of the known world. See you there! 

[JackAus]

STG: Fingers, V7.
MTG: DWS Project.
LTG: V11 in a session.

What a poo week. Been raining constantly.

M: Pissing it down. Went bouldering at Lot 33 (massive cave) and the walk in was a river. Everything got soaked before I made it 10m from the car. Ended up just doing a bunch of easy stuff up to V4. Had a throw on a V7, hurt my finger. Went home.
T->T: Rain, work, no climb.
F: Lot 33 again. Still raining but patches of sun. Again just a bunch of easy stuff up to V5.
S: Work late.
S: Sunny! Flying lesson... Very good conditions but managed to make myself sick!

Fuck all climbing this week. Every time it looks like its clearing up and I think about getting out, it just goes and dumps more.

[T_B]

84.5Kg

M - F/boardrepeaters @ lunch. 6 x 7 on front and back 3, then 2 x 6 x 7 on bottom rungs of BM.
T - P.M. Works. Campus. 1-4-7 x 3 on both arms. Getting fully locked on 1-5 on r arm. M'board problems. Couple of new blues.
W - Rest
T - Pulled lower back reaching for vacuum cleaner. In spasm all day - off work.
F -
S -
S - Burb N & W. Testing out back on familiar stuff. Warm in the sun. Movement felt good for back and wasn't troubled by a long afternoon of child care.

Deja Vu with virtually this exact time last year. At least I know to get straight onto the fitness ball. Back still sore as of today and doesn't like jumping off so need to be careful. Feeling somewhat de-motivated.

[tommytwotone]

Assuming that one session of exercise a week counts as training, I'm back in...


STG/LTG: Font 7b


M: Back to work after a week off, pretty manic and stressful
T: Nowt
W: After work Depot session, bit directionless but ended up working one if the V7+ Yellows and eventually got it
T: Nowt, and a few beers in the evening
F: Nowt
S: Early Mother's Day for Fiona inc trip to middle class bourgeois deli market and then champagne afternoon tea at Harvey Nicols
S: Mother's Day for rest of Fiona's family inc. huge Sunday lunch

[Dexter]

M:fingerboarding in the morning
T: session at the wall, went pretty well
W: Sod all
T: another wall session on the board felt a bit tired
F: another lazy day
S: Went out to the churnet, broke a hold of a project (am I getting stronger or just fatter?) 
S: another lazy day

all in all not too bad but could have done with more fingerboarding as I don't think I'm using it to the full potential

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: Don't be too shit in Font @ Easter...

M: Works - Blacks and Wasps - felt ok..
T: Nowt
W: Bike - 40 miles, pretty slow but good to be out.
T-S: Nowt - Had to attend a mates Funeral so spent the rest of the week either inebriated or recovering from said inebreation. 

Shit week..

[JohnM]

66.1 kg

STG: Fisheye (Oliana)
MTG: Indian Summer (Kilnsey), hard mountain trad.
LTG: Hard multipitch sport/trad + big wall

A much better week this one and the muscle soreness I had been feeling from brutal sports massages finally cleared up!

Mon - Less brutal sports massage.
Tues - AM Poor session but a bit sore from the previous evening's massage.  Wanted to do 80 move circuits at a level high enough to promote active pump control but didn't really happen.  Did a few laps on Fish Eye replica moves on the board.  PM - Good session.  Some problems on the board.  Systems board with added weight (10-15 moves).  5 sets of foot on campusing (2.5 minutes for the first 3 and then rapid drop off to 1.5 minutes for last 2 sets).  Weighted pull ups.
Wed - rest
Thurs - AM Gutted to find they had stripped the board with all my replica problems on to extend the circuits board, however the circuits are now better.  5 x 80-100 move circuits (2 x 7c,7a+7a+, 2 x 4 7a+, 1 x 2 7a+, 2 6c).  PM - 4x4s on the lead wall (1 x 7c, 7b+, 7b, 7b and 1 x 7c, 7b+, 7a+, 7a) followed by rapid burn out.  The 4x4s were too hard for me to complete 4 sets but I was pleased considering the morning session and I like to think I get more benefit from training at a harder level?
Fri - rest
Sat - rest hanging out in Bristol.
Sun - Annoying niggling hangover after lack of sleep and 1.5 pints of scrumpy.  I really can't drink anymore!  Brean Down - Long warm up feeling crap but then did Black Snake Moan in about 5 minutes.  Felt like easy 7c+ resting on the jug.  Then tried Milky Bar Kid but fell on the Bull Worker crux which I found hard and then climbed some 7s until burn out.

All in all a good week.  Hopefully more of the same this week followed by tapering off ready for my next trip to Oliana!

[Dolly]

M 10 easy routes inside. I have no stamina
T
W Gym core and aerobic. Managed up to 7 mins on the treadmill with no knee pain - small gains I know but progress
T Foundry The Wave
F Beastmaker max hangs
S I walked the long way to the match if that counts ?
S Did my project from a stand at about 6b+ and worked it from a sitter which will be the real challenge

[kelvin]

T-S: Nowt - Had to attend a mates Funeral so spent the rest of the week either inebriated or recovering from said inebreation. 

Shit week..

Puts the rest of the thread into perspective - don't be too hard on yourself, that would knock most people for six.

[cheque]

First redpoint got the horn

This is going down this season. 

STG- normal middle figers
2014 goals -20 19 E-points, 10 sport 7s, 10 boulder 7s

M- compound strength: pull-ups, push-ups, bicep curls w/ 18kg. Reduced rest times again- felt extremely hard.

T- Rest

W- Rest

T- Rest

F- Uphill heavy carrying. Very poor sleep afterwards.

S- Roaches. Started by backing off VS which is HS in the definitive guide. Then backed off HVS. Proved to be a good decision as I wasn't carrying any of the small cams my partner protected the crux with. I then fell off it on second . At this point I scrapped my plans of ticking 4 E-points over the weekend . Did VSs and HSs for the rest of the day.

S- Fell off an HVS. Nearly fell off it again seconding it. Backed off another HVS, but at least seconded it without problems. Did a VS and easy bouldering 'til dark (after 8PM )

Seriously lacking climbing mojo right now. I've always found trad hard, particularly on grit, but attempting focus on it is somehow making me regress to the levels I was at around 6 months after starting to climb!

[kelvin]

Seriously lacking climbing mojo right now. I've always found trad hard, particularly on grit, but attempting focus on it is somehow making me regress to the levels I was at around 6 months after starting to climb!

Till this winter, I had real issues with grit but lately, I've been looking at the lines on the crags and going for what I fancy - with a cursory glance at the guidebook before I set off. I feel far more psyched than if I'd picked according to grade and seem to be having fun along the way. I've even found I go at routes that I know I'll struggle on, so I can learn and as long as I'm struggling, then the grade is irrelevant.

Had my arse kicked on Saturday too and I was gonna blame the friction... then Pete W goes and does the direct start to Baron Greenback 

[SA Chris]

Week before last can't remember, bit of climbing, mostly packing blah blah blah.

Week on holiday in aviemore.

S - Morning - out on bike with kids in trailer in the snow! did something like  6 km, quite knackering.
Afternoon - headed into woods near cottage on bike, was tipped off about some good single track by a local - good fun, techy rooty stuff, but not easy with camera gear and tripod on back
M - short walk with kids
T - back into woods, did descent again, very good, and one just to right of it, also very good and fast, 1000ft of climbing and decent
W - short walk with kids.
T - out on bike again, got good info on more single track from bike shop. First descent was a great steep rocky gnarly trail full of rock features, all of which handed my ass to me. One to go back for better prepared and armoured up for. Then did a longer friendlier one really enjoyable, all good to know about and worth going back for. Swimming with older binlid in afternoon, quite tiring, managed a few lengths with him on my back before he got bored.
F - walk in morning, out with bike trailer in afternoon, did about 5 km, intended to go on longish cycle track, but took a wrong turn and ended up doing a pleasant loop around golf course instead.
S - Nothing - drove home
S - Nothing - unpacked

First natural single track stuff I've done in ages and really got a taste for it back. Even bought a new helmet to replace my one bought in 2002! Unfortunately due to chickenpox child we didn't get any ski touring done, but biking almost made up for it.

Weight 13st 5 3/4 same as just before the holiday, so good news in spite of too much eating and drinking.

[Luke Owens]

Feeling better now, good to be back on it, had a good start of season routes session on Sunday!

Hoping to finish off Firestarter at the Gorge this week.

Monday: ill

Tuesday: ill

Wednesday: Had a quick session on the Orme on the way back from a Bangor Uni open day with my girlfriend. Got back on Where's My Hippo (7A) fell off trying to hold the one arm swing to match the finishing jug around 12 times...

Evening Abs Session:
3 x 1min Front Plank
3 x 1min Side Plank Left
3 x 1min Side Plank Right
3 x 1min Dish
3 x 20 Wideshield Wipers
3 x 20 Leg Raises

Thursday: Work Gym Session:

3 x 12 Wide Grip Pull-Ups
3 x 10 Dips
3 x 10 One-Arm Rows (17.5kg, both sides)
3 x 10 Front Dumbbell Raises (12.5kg)
3 x 10 Hanging Leg Raises
3 x 10 Arnie Press (12.5kg)
3 x 1 min Front Plank

Friday: Work Gym Session:

3 x 12 Wide Grip Pull-Ups
3 x 10 Standing Dumbbell Upright Row (12.5kg)
3 x 10 Hanging Leg Raises
3 x 10 One-Arm Dumbbell Rows (17.5kg)
3 x 10 Bentover Shoulder Flys (15kg)
3 x 1 min Front Plank

Saturday: Rest

Sunday: Orme with Ally Smith

Warmed up on some crap 6a called "Mumbo Jumbo", never again...

Did "The Bloods" (7a+) first go of the day putting the clips in. Felt good feeling pumped mid crux but still being able to keep pulling!

Did "Julio Juvenito" (7a) 2nd go.

Tried "Mayfair" (7a+) worked out the crux, and also had a redpoint. Fell on the crux, did the crux on lead. One to go back for!

[fried]

The knee is getting slowly better but as I'd manage to cram all my work into 4 days I did nothing from

Monday - Thursday.
Friday - Again a 'no falling' day, and a day off work. I went to Mont Aigu to do the yellow circuit. Not a great choice as it gets hard to follow in place and my knee started complaining about sliding around the hillside trying to find my pad. Did 20 or so problems, then did a fe probs at the start. Would've been better without a pad, but no way I'm leaving that in the car.

Sat - Nothing
Sun - Take the missus and mother-in-law ou to Canche aux merciers again and put them in deck-chairs while I climb. Did the first 10 problems on the yellow circuit, then it rained. Sat under some trees and ate Burek and clove scented black tea (Mother-in-law always brings a yogi bear style pic-a-nic basket with her).

The rained stopped and I redid for the umpteenth time the first 10 orange probs. Took a few experimental fall on Goulette à dom, knee seemed O.K. Did a couple of blues again. Fun day, knee not perfect, but much better.

Weight 74.5kg lost muscle but gained spare tyre I imagine.

[EdGowSmith]

7A:    8/50
7A+:  5/40
7B:    1/30
7B+:  1/20 :D
7C:    0/10

Stretches: 4/4

Mon: Session at the Bunker with Adam and Rory. Put some wooden holds on the systems board and worked some problems on it. Manged a pull-up on index monos on the Beastmaker! Now for pinkies...  Then core and press-ups, went home feeling destroyed.
Tues: Rest day. First day doing nothing climbing-related in a while.
Wed: Went to Anstey's in the afternoon. First time trying Gravitron fresh, and got it second go - felt piss! First 7B+ of the year
Thurs: Short session at the Bunker, just on the systems board. Stretches
Fri: Home board (first time in a while - problems I struggled on before now doable) and Beastmaker. Stretches.
Sat:: Youth Climbing Series final round. Came 4th again, which wasn't great, but it's just routes that let me down. Feeling strong on boulders, want to enter a bouldering comp soon... Then went Bloc centre afterwards - most exhausted I've ever felt after a day of climbing. Stretches.
Sun: Rest day again as feeling destroyed. Stretches.

[Evil]

M - First day in Font. Thankfully not raining! Went to Roche aux Sabots and did some red/blue circuit problems.
T - Raining in Font, took the dog for a walk, and then ate crepes in Barbizon.
W - Bouldering at Éléphant as it dries quickly after the rain on Tuesday. Got to the top of a 6b, but couldn't top it out. Argh. Tried a horrible mantle problem that I didn't finish either, but good practice for the problem I wanted to try at Cuisiniere. Did a few easier circuit problems including a nice blue slab which was basically all on the feet and very good for the footwork (not something I usually go for as I like my shins too much).
T - Bouldering at Rocher Canon. Circuit problems to start with. Spent bloody ages doing some red circuit traverse thing which probably gets 6a, but was really long and tiring, ooops. Had a go on Lévitation without the traverse start (which gives an extra grade), but couldn't do a move off an undercut to come up out of the steep part onto the slab at the top. Need to work on undercut strength, doesn't come up so much indoors. Top out looks a bit scary.
F - Went to Franchard Cuisiniere. Did some great red circuit problems, then had a go at À Bras Plat à Bras. Managed to link the crux moves, and do the mantle finish, but not link it all together. Had a great time though, the moves were cool, and close to the ground, so easier to try moves at my limit. Really want to go back for this one.
S - Doing some circuit problems at Rocher Guichot prior to driving back to the UK. Also took the dog for a bike ride so he'd sleep on the way back, so rode to what I think is Rocher de la Cathedrale, had a look at the problems, and rode back.
S - Back to the climbing wall. Tried some problems set for the Youth Climbing Series on Saturday. Managed to do a couple of them, and not do a couple more (bloody kids with their strong little fingers and optimum power to weight ratios...) Did the first half of a nice V4, but felt too tired to complete it. Bit of a weird feeling on it, but seems like a good problem. Finished with some campussing, and discovered I can do 1-3-5 now with both arms. Chatted to a friend about another Font trip in May...

[nik at work]

M - BM session
T-S - Nothing

Not a classic week, must try harder...

[webbo]

Week off work.
Mon. Feel battered from yesterday's freezing wet bike ride. Board 15 problem warm up then 6 problems 5 times. Bike 2 hrs.
Tue. Drive down to daughters in Hampshire.
Wed. Walk with daughter and dogs. Drive back to Lincolnshire. Board mirror session
Thu. Board harder mirror session than yesterday's. Bike 1 hr intervals.
Fri. Bike 2 hrs 44mins felt hard due to wind.
Sat. Nothing shopping in York with missus and daughter.
Sun. Woodhouse scar. Felt cold when I got there but half way through my warm up I was sweating buckets. I couldn't work out if was me or the conditions. Got frustrated and went home. Session on board that was pretty good. Bike 1 hr.