[shark]

Had a few goes on Grizzly Arete yesterday and noticed that there was a seam that runs all the way round the large starting foot block which flexes slightly when weighted. I don't think it is likely to come off any time soon but wondered whether it was  reinforcing with some glue at some stage to preserve the feature and possible foot crushing scenarios.

[Sloper]

I think bits of this have been falling off for years.

[shark]

I think bits of this have been falling off for years.

It is not essential to the problem but would a very unsightly gash if it came away. I would guess it weighs around 30-50kgs. Certainly enough to crush a spotters foot.

[lagerstarfish]

you can probably hold it in place with a well placed ladder

[Johnny Brown]

I was doubly dismayed today at Grizzly arete, first because I couldn't do it, and then when I finally figured out why - this block has now fallen off. It is now well down the hill but appears to be almost completely intact, and the scar is pretty clean. I didn't carry it up because Shark's weight estimate was very good and I didn't want to put my back out.

Looking at UKC there is a note to this effect from early Nov, and also one logged ascent since.

Also something to the effect that with the crimp out right it's now nearer 6c? Must admit although I've watched this crimp get steadily lower and bigger over the last twenty-plus years I've never been able to suss a sequence that doesn't just climb the sidewall past the crux. Be interesting to see how people do this, the few downgrades seem to be from lanksters. My old sequence will still work off a tiny foothold above the old one but will be very burly, I'm guessing 7C ballpark.

Opinions etc? At present I'd be inclined to replace it but I'd like to see how other people do it first.

[T_B]

Did it a couple of times last year using the slopey crimp out right, high blind left foot and reach up left for something crozzly.

As they say “About 6c if yer 6 foot three”.

[Johnny Brown]

Guessing you still used the foothold to get to the crimp  though?

[mr chaz]

This makes me feel better as I tried/ looked at this for the first time Sat morning and was left scratching my head, even more so after reading the logbook comments.

[T_B]

Guessing you still used the foothold to get to the crimp  though?

Yeah stood on something massive.

[Don Jebus]

Wondered what felt off last time I was on it, thought something looked different but it was at night so wasn't certain. The RH crimp is really quite soft now too and could do with some sort of stabilisation before it either erodes into a jug or just a horrible mess. Seems a lot things are getting damaged over this winter due to how damp it's been.

[Bonjoy]

What else needs looking at DJ? Next time I'm over that way I'll have a look stabilising. Worth doing a few things while I'm at it.

[Johnny Brown]

Pic from yesterday plus a screengrab from youtube.

As you can see it's a clean break, which works both ways - it won't look a mess if left but equally a neat repair looks very feasible.

[Johnny Brown]

Had a more determined go at this on Saturday. Got no higher, tweaked a finger.

[Fiend]

Based on those pictures, from an outsiders perspective (who could possibly aspire to at least attempt GA in the distant future), I vote to bolt it back on. I'll lift it up the hill 

[Don Jebus]

What else needs looking at DJ? Next time I'm over that way I'll have a look stabilising. Worth doing a few things while I'm at it.

It was more a general comment on the peak this winter, seems people have been getting desperate and climbing on damp rock. Around RHS it's more the easy slabs where the feet are wearing away, not really worth reinforcing, although it will be sad to see them turn into huge footholds.

Not at the same crag, but I've also heard that the foot for the last move on Great White at Curbar has also disintegrated, leaving a sandy mess.

I think more of us are going to need to learn how to stablise rock over the coming years to preserve the more delicate rock, I'll have to learn from you some time!

[spidermonkey09]

Did this today, still about 7A+ I think but I didn't do it before the block came off. Fiend estimated the weight to be in the region of 100kg!

Presumably the sequence JB proposes to be 7C is an eliminate avoiding the crimp because it's not close to that with it and climbs well. Not sure why one would eliminate it.

[Johnny Brown]

I could never figure out a sequence using the crimp that didn't turn it into an eliminate avoiding the gully. But interested to see what people do. Crimp needs stabilising if it's going to be the only method.

[spidermonkey09]

Ah, I see. My sequence got the left arete as a pinch, as high as possible with left hand, with right hand on crimp sidepull on arete. Right heel in the starting hueco and roll up to the crimp with right hand. Shuffle up arete au cheval, left foot on blind edge, left hand to crozzle on left side of arete, more shuffling and then again to good fluting on left of arete and then a jug. The gully didn't feel close using this method as you're basically clamping the arete.

Crimp felt pretty positive but definitely not a jug, its still quite small. Worth sorting it if its known to be soft so it doesn't go the way of New Jerusalem.

[Johnny Brown]

Ta, will give that a go. Did Fiend do it? How tall are you?

[spidermonkey09]

I imagine getting the foot on the blind edge without some spotter assist is desperate as you simply can't see it. I'm not tall, 5'7'', so should work for everyone. Fiend was on Dry Wit, don't think he tried it.

[Fiend]

Did Fiend fuck even try it!! Deffo above me even at spidermonkey's sandbag grade. I went down and lifted the block off the ground but couldn't walk with it. No way that's 50kg, that would be 2 red plates at the gym and I'd lug those around without thinking. SM's sequence on Grizzly looked fierce but entirely natural and direct (pretty sure he slapped his left hand to a small hold left of the arete before the "where is it up a bit down a bit sideways a bit you're on it" foot faff). I started getting close-ish to Dry Wit which was pretty inspiring to me!

[teestub]

I went down and lifted the block off the ground but couldn't walk with it. No way that's 50kg, that would be 2 red plates at the gym and I'd lug those around without thinking.

Not to derail this too much, but I think it’s difficult to judge the weight of things compared to the gym, where most things you lift up have a nice handle! (Unless you train at an awesome strong man gym with Atlas stones of course).

[Fiend]

I meant just lifting a couple of actual plates off the floor to carry them to the bar... Better friction under the grizzly ex-footblock too.

[shark]

Bet Will reckons this is 25kg - tops

[tomtom]

Bet Will reckons this is 25kg - tops

:D Chapeau