[r-man]

Slackers - yes, that'll be what I read years ago. But I would be interested to hear him expand on it.

T_B - yes overall! Worth stressing because it's a big achievement for a UK boulderer. He came 1st twice, podiumed 4 times and was in the top five 7 times.

http://egw.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?page_name=pstambl&person=628&cat=6

[Nigel]

Sorry can't be arsed to re-read posts, but wasn't the comp where he one-armed the hold the one at Birmingham NEC that was set by Jerry, televised, and presented by Vicky Butler-Henderson? God I have such a wierd trivial memory. Worth a Google from someone who wants the info and isn't at work anyway, I can't do it / don't care.

[Johnny Brown]

presented by Vicky Butler-Henderson? God I have such a wierd trivial memory.

Its a good adaptation for when your eyesight finally goes.

[rich d]

now that the school room is reopening is he booking his train to Sheff with excess baggage weight for his weight belt?

[lukeyboy]

Which makes me think of a question, how into competitions was he and bearing in mind how apparently easily he won the domestic comps why does he think he didn't do better on the world stage?

Didn't he come second at some comp in the states to Chris Sharma?

Read somewhere way back that he was at some international comp where he did this one arm pull up on this really bad hold - Yuji Hirayama I think was the route setter and couldn't believe it, so he kept the hold and every strong climber he asked to try and do a one armer on it but no one else ever managed it so he called it the Malcolm smith hold. No idea where I read this now...
 

Yeah I remember reading something along these lines, I think it was an Arco comp. Don't think it was Yuji Hirayama though.

OK great at least I didn't imagine it all then - Hans Florine?

I'd be interested to know what he thinks about the current crop of top boulderers - Woods, Robinson etc. and how far he feels things have moved on from his peak - were he seemed a cut above the rest in terms of power.

Also what motivated his return to high end sport climbing a few years ago after so many years and does he feel he reached his full potential in bouldering and sport climbing?

I remember meeting him briefly at bas cuvier 7 or 8 years ago, a friend of mine, who knew him, introduced him but I was too awestruck to speak....muttering a brief "how's it going" or something lame like that... legend.

Any time frame on this Interview?

Had a google with no joy. Did find this however, which is quite interesting.

[Monolith]

Sorry can't be arsed to re-read posts, but wasn't the comp where he one-armed the hold the one at Birmingham NEC that was set by Jerry, televised, and presented by Vicky Butler-Henderson? God I have such a wierd trivial memory. Worth a Google from someone who wants the info and isn't at work anyway, I can't do it / don't care.

I was sat on about the fifth row in front of him for this. I remember as clear as day him crimping the join between panels on an overlap on one problem because he seemed to prefer that to the hold on offer.

I frequently try to emulate this. Note to self - you are not Malc. 

[Doylo]

I remember that Vicky bird interviewing Moffatt

[neilpearsons]

Not a mile off

[mini]

With heresay of being to weak to walk to the bottom of The Tor, how extreme did his dieting get in order to reach his optimum climbing strength and ultimate fighting weight? I'm sure that sports nutrition of the nineties was far more extreme than todays.

[cowboyhat]

Not a mile off

Fucking brilliant!

[cowboyhat]

Thinking about it, I can think of at least three examples of people other than Malc doing a one armer in a comp.

Maybe not such a big deal? (One of them was Stuart Little of this parish. Go on, wad him. I saw it. Malc won BTW)

[miso soup]

The point was the hold he did it on.  I read the story too (also fairly sure it wasn't Yuji, possible Hans) and if memory serves a lot of pro climbers haven't been able to hang the hold let alone do a one armer on it.

[slackline]

Q. Is Malcolm comfortable with being called a legend?

[Jaspersharpe]

With heresay of being to weak to walk to the bottom of The Tor,

Where did this come from btw? It's bollocks (I thought dave was joking earlier in the thread).

[Stewart]

Always worth a re-post

[abarro81]

Was he on speed when he did Hubble?

[Bubba]

With heresay of being to weak to walk to the bottom of The Tor,

Where did this come from btw? It's bollocks (I thought dave was joking earlier in the thread).

This gets trotted out every few years.  I first heard it about soloist extraordinaire Phil Davidson having to be carried from his car to some crag in The Pass. 

[GraemeA]

What about Mark Croxall?! Won in Brum, 2005. Oh right, overall...

How many Brits have won rounds in the bouldering world cup? Andy Earl la Reunion in 2007.

Only the 3 golds that have been mentioned although I suspect that Shauna will get one this year.

The controversy was whether Christian Core managed to hold the finish hold or whether he fell off before really holding it. That decided the World Cup that year.

Italian climber at an Italian WC with an Italian judge. No possibility of bias there then.

(I've seen a video of the incident at an IFSC Judge's meeting, 50% said held, 50% said not, I was in the latter camp)

So Shark, ask Malc whether he saw the incident.

And ask him whether he realised what Jerry was doing at the NIA 2001 comp when he brushed the holds for Malc in sequence. No bias there either then 

[GraemeA]

Malc will be at the CWIF tomorrow

[shark]

Q. Is Malcolm comfortable with being called a legend?

I can answer that 

"Not going to spare your blushes -"Malcolm Smith Climbing Legend" would sum it up for me"

"legend" is that all, i want more!! haha, no that's very flattering thanks.

[roddersm]

The point was the hold he did it on.  I read the story too (also fairly sure it wasn't Yuji, possible Hans) and if memory serves a lot of pro climbers haven't been able to hang the hold let alone do a one armer on it.

Yea this is definitely the same story I was thinking of. Can't think where I read it - maybe an old OTE?- basically Malcolm misread a sequence but rather than falling off he did this one-armer on a really bad hold which left the route setters  aghast and no one else was able to come close to performing the same feat, despite retaining the hold as a challenge  Not sure where I got Yuli or Hans from but pretty sure it was someone well know internationally who set the route....that's as much as I can recall... an urban myth maybe but if not a great story.   

[Nibile]

Malc will be at the CWIF tomorrow

Competing?

[bigtuboflard]

Malc will be at the CWIF tomorrow

Competing?

i think i seem to remember seeing him on the qualifier list, yes

[Falling Down]

Does he ever get mistaken for the guy off Soccer Am (Max Rushden) ?

[mini]

With hearsay of being to weak to walk to the bottom of The Tor,

Where did this come from btw? It's bollocks (I thought dave was joking earlier in the thread).

That was a bit tongue in cheek relating to the previous comment. However having said that, I can recall belaying a friend of Malc's (who followed a similar diet at the time and also had a replica of Hubble in his cellar) fainting whilst trying Revelations, greatly attributive to a strict diet (weight loss / low body fat) and v strong coffee (muscle recruitment). It maybe hearsay but not outside the boundary of possibilities, hence the interest.

Sports nutrition has moved on bucket loads since the 90's.