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training for the one armer (Read 2666 times)

quejada

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training for the one armer
January 31, 2014, 10:46:42 am
Being a decent boulderer but relatively new to one armers, I decided to start training them, but I'm faced now with a technical  question you guys surely know how to address.

Basically it's quite simple: when doing (or training) more than one repetition, do you have to go all the way down before commencing a new one, or stopping just before the shoulder 'twist' and fully stretch?

I remember someone a while ago saying that it's quite dangerous going all the way down and twisting the shoulder while fully stretched, you may incur in some shoulder cap injury.. (this instinctively makes sens to me) but recently some experienced and well into training climber told me that instead you should go all the way down, it's crucial in terms of effectiveness of the training.. and if you stop few inches before that and then start the next pull up, you loose a great deal of your work...

all comments are welcome


bigironhorse

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#1 Re: training for the one armer
February 04, 2014, 09:22:24 pm
I hurt my rotorcuff doing one armers from a straight arm. Why do you want to train them though? You would probably make better gains training finger strength or power endurance instead..

i_a_coops

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#2 Re: training for the one armer
February 04, 2014, 09:39:07 pm
It is a REALLY good party trick....

:lets_do_it_wild:

i_a_coops

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#3 Re: training for the one armer
February 04, 2014, 09:46:02 pm
More constructively, if you want to get better at one armers without frying your elbows, my experience is that doing one armers from a dead straight arm is pretty much declaring war on your elbows.

Also, several years ago I went from being unable to do a one armer to being able to do 3 by doing loads of weighted pullups. My bouldering grade increased by zero grades.

3 years later I can only do one from a bent arm and climb 4 grades harder.....

But they are the ultimate party trick.

mark s

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#4 Re: training for the one armer
February 06, 2014, 06:30:02 pm
It is a REALLY good party trick....

:lets_do_it_wild:

is it though,maybe to climbers but even they know how useful they in real terms.non climbers wont be that bothered.

quejada

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#5 Re: training for the one armer
February 17, 2014, 09:15:40 am
my party days are long since gone :(   plus, I never impressed any girl with my climbing tricks...   :(   :(

I'm training one armers as part of a wider training schedule that includes a variety of exercises, one arm deadhangs, lock offs, front lever and so on.. everyday I just find myself with a 45 mins lunch break and since I want to make the most of it, so I usually go back home (5 mins from work) and start working on my fingerboard.
I don't necessarily think training one armers is that useful, I agree that you'd better off training your climbing tecniques, your feetwork, your contact strenght etc..but since once or twice a week I'm training one armers, I thought I'd ask some opinion...

 

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