[EdGowSmith]

7A:    1/50
7A+:  0/40
7B:    0/30
7B+:  0/20
7C:    0/10

Stretching: 4/4

Mon: Skin lacking from Dartmoor the day before, short home board session focussing on endurance and then lock-offs. Stretches.
Tues: Tried to climb at the Bunker, felt absolute shit so went home. Did manage a long stretching session though.
Wed: Long session at the Bunker: Beastmarkering, systems board, pull-ups, rings and press-ups.
Thurs: Rest day, long chilled-out stretching session.
Fri: Went to Anstey's with a friend for some bouldering. Everything was dripping apart from the eliminate wall so no problems done.
Sat: Board session and pull-ups then stretches and a bit of core.
Sun: Worst conditions I've ever tried to climb in! Horizontal snow, freezing cold. Went to Saddle Tor and got super close on a V6 only to fall off the mantle three times! Couldn't feel my fingers, however. Then walked to Smallacombe only to find everything soaked.

Training's going well but unless the weather improves soon I'm going to lose all psyche! Need a trip somewhere to get me motivated...

[Luke Owens]

Monday: Lunch session:
12 Wide Grip Pull Ups, 10 Dips

Rock Ring Pull-Ups
Set 1 - Lrg: 10 Med: 8 Sml: 5
Set 2 - Lrg: 10 Med: 10 Sml: 5

3 x 10 Hammer-Curls (15kg)
3 x 10 Bent Over Dumbell Flys (15kg)
3 x 10 Hanging Leg Raises

Pulled a muscle in my neck, couldn't walk/move by the evening. Got on the painkillers.

Tuesday: Rest (Neck still bad, couldn't move it much but could walk)

Wednesday: Lunch session in attempt to loosen neck up (it worked!)

3 x 20 Press Ups
3 x 10 Dumbbell front raises (10kg)
3 x 10 Dips
3 x 10 Hanging Leg Raises
3 x 10 Dumbbell Lunges (17.5kg)
3 x 10 Dumbbell Upright Shoulder Rotation's (5kg)

Evening: 30 Mins Aerocap

Thursday: Boardroom routes (Neck felt fine and had a great session)

5, 5+, 6a, 6a+, 6b, 6b+, 6c+, 7a, 7a

Mates bailed before I could warm down so did:

3 x V2
15 mins Aerocap

Friday: Rest

Saturday: Rest

Sunday: Went to Angel Bay, seals on the beach so couldn't go down.

Went to the Orme did "Hip Hop" (6C+) then did the 7A sit-start twice. Had to bail after half an hour because of some running race round the Orme! (Argh!)

Ended up at Bodafon and worked on "Pumpsville" (7A). Steep (Anti-style) traverse (~20 moves) on pockets and crimps. Did all the moves and some good links but had no skin left to link it all.

Evening: Stretching for 1 hour

[lagerstarfish]

14.8 - 14.10

Monday - fingers hurting from doing a lot (for me) last week. Ankle hurting. Worked on loosening ankle. Hands in hot water because it makes them feel better

Tuesday - same as Monday plus a few press-ups. Back also hurting, so did sensible back stretches/exercises

Wednesday -  set off to do some jog-walking. Hurt too much so went home to sulk

Thursday - managed to manipulate circumstances so that I could get outside while it wasn't raining. Met up with Nai at Burbage North. Warmed up on Tiny Slab - definite lack of bounce in my ankle. Would have liked to do easy mileage, but limited dry rock made that difficult, so went to open my account with The Terrace. Couldn't do any of the moves to start with, but got to where they didn't all feel impossible - did most of them in isolation - didn't link any. Not only did I get out on real rock, but I also managed to not climb on my own. Nice to bump into a few folk.

Friday - ankle and finger pain woke me during the night. Managed pain for the day with reasonable success

Saturday - ankle work

Sunday - took advantage of the slight easing of rain to get to Curbar with Dolly to try do Jihad properly. Difficult to warm up due to very limited dry rock - the spikes on GW were out of bounds due to the damp. Wasn't climbing great, but was happy to get out on real rock with good company.

[mindfull]

@Luke,

Any particular move that did the harm to your neck? I have chronical pains (arthritis & other stuff) in the neck and try to avoid any move that may cause trouble there.

[Luke Owens]

@Luke,

Any particular move that did the harm to your neck? I have chronical pains (arthritis & other stuff) in the neck and try to avoid any move that may cause trouble there.

I only have 30 minutes on my lunch, so any sessions I do then are a bit rushed and I don't warm up properly. It was a cold in the gym and doing pull ups is what did it. It wasn't too bad until afterwards.

[shark]

Ended up at Bodafon and worked on "Pumpsville" (7A). Steep (Anti-style) traverse (~20 moves) on pockets and crimps.

 

[cheque]

STG- full range of movement in fingers.

M- old school compound strength- pull-ups, bicep curls, pushups. Hit target of 18kg on bicep curls- going to start reducing rest times between sets

T- Rest. Watched video of thin, technical wall climbing at Smith Rocks thinking "That's so cool, I must do some more climbing in that style"

W- Notts Wall- huge amount of short pitches on decent holds as usual then worked thin, technical wall climb. 

T- Fingers fucking stiff- basically wiped 2 weeks of rehab work off.  1 hours continuous breaststroke- swimming, not adolescent-style foreplay.

F- Weighted pullups. New 1 rep max is with 24kg- it was 11kg three weeks ago! 

S- Rest

S- Awesome Walls Sheffield. First visit- nice to have a wall with 20m+ routes within 1 hour of my flat! Very impressed in general. Spent most time on the old school moulded style section with cracks, aretes etc. (pleased to be able to walk the long layback crack repeatedly, which was an embarrassing weakness less than 12 months ago) but sampled everything and, for the first and hopefully last time this year, rained 'til I had nothing left. 

Bit of a depressing week- stupid lack of patience resulted in backward injury recovery progress. Just need to be sensible and wait for drier weather when I can do some trad. At least I'm getting stronger.

[Luke Owens]

Ended up at Bodafon and worked on "Pumpsville" (7A). Steep (Anti-style) traverse (~20 moves) on pockets and crimps.

 

Been on it Shark?

[webbo]

Mon. Board 15 problems to warm up, then circuit of 6 problems 5 times. First 4 sets using screw on footholds.
Tue. Nothing.
Wed. Board did one project, worked a couple of others before repeating things.
Thu. Board mirror session.
Fri. Nothing.
Sat. A bit hungover. Leeds wall flashed a v5 and did another 2nd go then did some easier stuff brain not working that well.
Sun. Board mirror session. Dumbbell workout. Turbo 1 hour.
Weight Tuesday 11st 2.9lbs.

[tomtom]

Achy back dominated week..
Made it to Logport wall on friday for some tentative work and for a much better session on Sunday. Also good to bump into Galpinos and Nick *waves*

[shark]

Ended up at Bodafon and worked on "Pumpsville" (7A). Steep (Anti-style) traverse (~20 moves) on pockets and crimps.

 

Been on it Shark?

No - but from your description I'd like to

[Doylo]

Ended up at Bodafon and worked on "Pumpsville" (7A). Steep (Anti-style) traverse (~20 moves) on pockets and crimps.

 

Been on it Shark?

No - but from your description I'd like to

Kilnsey lime too

[Luke Owens]

Kilnsey lime too

Is it? Never been to Kilnsey, would like to if it's got pockets like that!

Do you rate the trav pal? I thought it was good through the steep until the big jug but the last section seemed a bit pointless and sharp after that! Wasn't too sure where it finished to be honest...

[Doylo]

Some nice holds. I thought it was pretty good when I did it (years ago tho)

[Duma]

STG - get up to speed without reinjuring anything
MTG - keep niggles in check, run regularly, get out more. If I do any hard stuff that'll be nice too.
LTG - 8A, 68kg

M - ride bike in woods 40min am, TCA eve, few of the red circuit (6C-7C) felt like I was going ok.
T - fly to Barca, look at Gaudi, walk, drink, and eat a lot.
W - as above
T - as above until mid afternoon, then get robbed. fun afternoon in police station. eve drink and eat a lot.
F - fun morning in consulate, more expense to change flights, fly home in eve.
S - insurance fun, TCA in aft, working more reds.
S -
 
69kg.

[tomtom]

Ah shit Duma that's rubbish (the being robbed and subsequent stuff)

[Duma]

Cheers, wasn't much fun, but we're both fine, so its just stuff really. Was pissed at the time though.