[abarro81]

Sometimes I like to pretend I'm a sport climber by climbing 20 moves on a rope instead of over a pad...

I'd have thought that over a 20 move route you'd still need a good aero pow ideally, especially since moves outdoors can be quite slow to climb in comparison to indoors.

[Sasquatch]

   I thought 20 moves was a monster enduro fest. I figured PE was 5-10 moves.... Maybe I need to rethink my Red training.  Are the routes there more than 15 moves?

[abarro81]

Not if you're as tall as me.

[Muenchener]

I did quite a lot of Aerocap type stuff: circuits on easy-ish slightly overhanging ground for 10 mins on, 10 minutes off, for 4-6 sets, aiming to cultivate a moderate pump each time. It monopolises a section of wall so not one for Tuesdays at 7.30pm.

I did a few weeks of this recently, and finding a suitably vacant bit of wall was indeed the crux. It involved either getting up very early in the morning, or climbing in the dark on the outdoor section of my local wall on evenings when it was so unappealing outside they didn't switch the floodlights on, complete with numb fingers during and screaming barfies afterwards on at least two occasions. So good alpine training all round.

[petejh]

Alex - great article. Is your 'size of tank, size of inlet/outlet pipe' analogy for how different energy systems relate to and affect each other based on any scientific evidence or is it something you made up to make it easier to visualise what's going on? Any links?

[ghisino]

a few examples to see if i understood.

recent sport trip:
-satisfying performances when redpointing shorter routes or routes with a rather short crux section (up to 10 moves)
-quite bad on the occasional longer, mid-intensity route. Felt as if once i got past "comfy" intensity, a countdown leading to extreme pump started, no matter if it was really very hard or just medium-hard. Pumped stupid and recovering really slowly when back on the ground.

does that translate, in the pdf's terms, in good ancap/anpow and bad aeropow?

another one:
boulder traverse with a good rest in the middle. When dialed perfectly, probably two 1-minute sections of similar intensity plus the rest.
Feeling solid on both halves in isolation (climbed both 2nd or 3rd go), though i start to get slighly pumped n the last moves.
The rest feels much poorer than expected-unable to recover fully despite amost entirely hanging off a bomber foot cam (can't let go completely though, as the ground is too close!).
The first 3-4 moves out of the rest still feel ok then i'm suddenly shut down, half pumped half "no power left".

again, the problem is bad aeropow?
recovering on a shakeout, is that influenced by aerocap?

would projecting the traverse in the following way be more aeropow training or more ancap? Would it serve the needs of an upcoming sport trip? :
-have a redpoint go. If i fall off in the 2nd part, rest on the ground 30 secs to 1 min then try to climb the 2nd half in isolation.
-rest completely in between attempts (10-15 min)

thanks..