[dave]

You're tall Dave you don't weigh 82kgs and don't climb 8a, so I don't mind sitting here being told I'm talking bollocks when my outrageous statement has pulled up one name so far.

Seems all the "evidence" to support your claim is based around you picking a few names out of a hat then dismissing them based on guesswork of their weight.

No further questions your m'lud.

[rosmat]

http://www.freakclimbing.com/modules.php?name=People&rop=showcontent&pid=18

might be a bit old but apparently 78 is the max for malc and I am sure he was unbelievably light in his late teens/early 20s (there was a profile in OTE or somewhere where he said his weight which was approaching 9 stone or something stupid but I might be confabulating)

Yeah, that's well out of date now. Malc was around 9 stone when he did Hubble, but he is huge in comparison now. He's been doing a lot of weights for years, it's all muscle but he is a big guy these days, and still brutally strong.

[rosmat]

Here's the article. I found it easily, by googling "malcolm smith broccoli"

http://www.planetfear.com/articles/What_Happened_to_the_Young_Ones_Malcolm_Smith_100.html

Aye, but that was 11 years ago.

[Johnny Brown]

What Dave said. I think what Dense is saying would carry a lot more weight if we were talking 8B or above (which is the level most of the examples raised are operating at anyway). 8A isn't that hard any more is it?

He has also confirmed I am even better than I thought I was, so a worthwhile thread.

[Doylo]

Malc told me he mainly trains on the weights these days and thus is a bit heavy for hard climbing. I bet he can still climb 8A (and the rest) though!

[rich d]

 

Malc told me he mainly trains on the weights these days and thus is a bit heavy for hard climbing. I bet he can still climb 8A (and the rest) though!

Come on Shark let's have an interview so we can find out exactly how much Malc weighs nowadays.

[Doylo]

What Dave said. I think what Dense is saying would carry a lot more weight if we were talking 8B or above (which is the level most of the examples raised are operating at anyway). 8A isn't that hard any more is it?

He has also confirmed I am even better than I thought I was, so a worthwhile thread.

Yes there can't be many 80kg + climbing 8b.

[mrjonathanr]

I think what Dense is saying would carry a lot more weight if we were talking 8B or above

Excellent.

[Jim]

this thread has inspired me to climb 8b just to prove JB and Dense wrong!

[Doylo]

this thread has inspired me to climb 8b just to prove JB and Dense wrong!

I'm backing ya 

[GCW]

this thread has inspired me to climb 8b just to prove JB and Dense wrong!

I was thinking the same thing. You, me and Lagers against the doubters!  8A here we come!

[a dense loner]

Dave and Johnny, what are you talking about? Let's do the 8b list after the 8a list. Throw some names at it instead of trying to be amusing. I still count 3 who climb 8a now, or recently. The other guys don't weigh 82kgs, with no knowledge of malc. Let's say we say we've reached 10 names, we'll be hard pressed to find another 7 I know but let's say for the sake of argument. That's 10 out of 100,000. That's too big a number for my tiny mind to comprehend so we'll cut it to only a 1000 boulderers in Britain for the exercise.
So 10 out of 1000, pretty small number I'd say. Might go as far as to say 1 in 100. With 7 names missing from the list and ignoring the other 99,000 boulderers. Pretty small minority?
Like Simpson said " I want the names"

[Sasquatch]

I agree with Dense on this even though I'm on the big end.  I'd say for 5'8", 60-65kgs is optimal climbing weight.  Add about 2-3kgs per inch.  That's skinny, but well within the high end athlete ranges.... Doesn't mean there aren't exceptions, just what most would fit into.  Everyone thinks of Fred as a "big" guy, but he's 5'10-5'11ish and I'm pretty sure in his prime weighed about 70kgs. 

[a dense loner]

Dunning? Steve's really tall by all accounts, so could maybe join the club.
Percy? Weight of dreads replaced by weight of wallet?
Both post on here at times so would be interesting to hear back.

[lagerstarfish]

this thread has inspired me to climb 8b just to prove JB and Dense wrong!

I was thinking the same thing. You, me and Lagers against the doubters!  8A here we come!

I suspect that the only way I'll get to 8A is by starting eating for one and getting below 82kg

mind you, Tomtom is trying for it and I felt like I could climb as hard as him when we were out the other week...

[abarro81]

Dunning? Steve's really tall by all accounts, so could maybe join the club.

I had a couple of conversations with Dunning at the tor last year where weight was mentioned. IIRC he said he was currently 12 1/2 or 13, but when he was doing Hubble and Hooligan he was something obscene like 9 1/2!  The first part of the conversation made me feel good about myself, needless to say the revelation of his previous weight made me feel like a right fatty!

[tomtom]

mind you, Tomtom is trying for it and I felt like I could climb as hard as him when we were out the other week...

Thats because you have quite some latent sloper pulling strength - very impressive. Either that or you've been training all year in secret and were just hustling us

[John Gillott]

I agree with Dense on this even though I'm on the big end.  I'd say for 5'8", 60-65kgs is optimal climbing weight.  Add about 2-3kgs per inch.  That's skinny, but well within the high end athlete ranges.... Doesn't mean there aren't exceptions, just what most would fit into.  Everyone thinks of Fred as a "big" guy, but he's 5'10-5'11ish and I'm pretty sure in his prime weighed about 70kgs.

The Sharma / Ondra comparison is the one that is often given. Sharma chunky but, unsurprisingly, as the videos show, no love handles on him. Six feet tall and 75kg according to wiki:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chris_Sharma

[Johnny Brown]

If he's really six foot he's a terrible slouch. Obviously a lot skinnier now than his bouldering days though.

[willackers]

Ditto Willackers, surely - but does it count if all your 8as have been dynos?!


 

Cheeky sod. I'm 12st 8lb and I've climbed a few 8A's, some of which have been dynos

[abarro81]

No wonder you get pumped so easily

[John Gillott]

If he's really six foot he's a terrible slouch. Obviously a lot skinnier now than his bouldering days though.

Yes, though I presume he could boulder as hard / harder now than back when he was young (8B+ crux on La Dura Dura he says)?

[Monolith]

Crouch had something of a microgut on him recently. Noticeable by his absence. Must be all those curries coming home to roost.

[tomtom]

:D

[Doylo]

Dunning? Steve's really tall by all accounts, so could maybe join the club.

I had a couple of conversations with Dunning at the tor last year where weight was mentioned. IIRC he said he was currently 12 1/2 or 13, but when he was doing Hubble and Hooligan he was something obscene like 9 1/2!  :

Doesn't sound like Hubbles ever had a 10 stone+ ascent