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Warming up for fingerboard / Beastmaker session (Read 24057 times)

Sasquatch

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hot damn...  2 dogs, and 2 kids.  My warmup lasts for about 2 hours  :great:

tommytwotone

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progress...enhanced warmup including some pull ups on Una's garden swing frame. Managed 5 x 5 x 5 secs now!

Ti_pin_man

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usually for me its a 50/100 star jumps, then ten shoulder rotations front and then 10 backwards followed by some theraband sets and then a couple of jug deadhangs.

I do exactly the same except without the star jumps, shoulder rotations, or theraband stuff. Why am i always injured?

Added in the Theraband bit for exactly that reason, five months carrying a shoulder injury, no fingerboard or almost no climbing, theraband has slowly helped get my shoulder back to the point its doesnt hurt.  So now as I'm starting to get back into it I leave it in as a shoulder warm up.  It helps stable-ise the shoulder. 
Aside from that the star jumps work a treat.  Get the blood flowing, warmed up and the arms/shoulders moving.

Nibile

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As I've said before on this matter, hard fingerboarding is a full body task, so it's essential to have a full body general warm up, but also a full body specific warm up, recruiting as many muscles as possible, and not just doing a fingers-specific warm up.
Strength is a systemic quality, and it's bigger with the higher number of muscles involved, also due to major CNS recruitment and activation.
So, a set of high jumps will give lots of benefits to your DH session, more than just going through smaller holds tout court.

seankenny

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I have a set of rock rings, a pull-up bar and a couple of pulleys. I attach a weight to a rope and loop it to the rock rings, rather like a lat pull down machine in the gym, then start doing easy pulls with a low weight, and work upwards. I try to do about 100 reps in total - it takes a while but gives a thorough warm-up and is the nearest I can find to doing lots of easy bouldering in the gym.

Pebblespanker

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Weak old punter version, Beastmaker 1K

Hanging from Jugs 10 secs x 3
Press Ups x30
Pull Ups x5 (bar or Jugs)
Windmills 20/arm both directions
Hamstring Stretches (for general flexibility) 6/leg
Frogging (for general flexibility) 6 x 10 secs
6x 7/3 Repeater on Jugs, 3 mins rest
6x 7/3 Repeater on deep 3F pockets, Front 3, 3 mins rest
6x 7/3 Repeater in Half Crimp on largest edge, 3 mins rest
Rest 3 mins and start FB routine

Longer warm up time than most but I am also older than most and more cautious as a result.  I also change the ordering of my FB max hang exercises/prehensions just to work out the best ordering. Some days I will have been for a run before starting.

 

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