[Bonjoy]

Here are a couple of good new (or sort of new) south peak problems from the end of last year, as mentioned in BO2013 thread.

Blackfoot 7c – Rowsley Wood. FA Dan Warren circa 2009. Sit start on the left of the long slanting prow on a good finger jug and foothold. Crimp and heelhook your way along the lip to finish up the arete.

I did this thinking it was an FA but in fact Dan had done something much the same about five years ago calling it Blackfoot. It’s a good climb and worthy of inclusion on any prow lovers tick list, especially if they are also a lover of the crimp.


West facing, clean, tree sheltered and with a short flat walk in. To find it park on the first hairpin encountered travelling east on the last left turn before the A6 on the Baslow to Rowsley road (you need to pass the bend, turn round and approach from above if you don’t want to get stuck when pulling out of the parking). Walk up the road to the next bend and continue straight on (north) along a decent path which isn’t marked on the OS map. The climbing is visible on the right after 250m.
Other than Blackfoot there isn’t much else there unfortunately. You can do an earlier finish on the main prob at 7b/+, a sit start off a jug to the right arete at 6a+ (a lower start to this is a very hard proj), there’s a nice pumpy warm up traverse starting from the deluxe bivi cave that’s about 6a and a couple of easy up probs on the left wall. Below the prow is a promising looking roof but anything on it will have to be some sort of eliminate to make the best of it. 

The other thing is also at a new bit of crag:

Dad’s Arete_A Belly Full of Brad Berries 7b+ – Endcliffe Wood (near Stanton)



A nice steep little arete of a quarried boulder climbed from sitting. Gratifyingly devoid of positive holds it climbs like one of those glassy sharp arêtes in font, requiring the right divots to be squeezed in just the right order. Gritlad got a video of this which will no doubt pop up at some point soon. Apologies for exceeding the syllable quota on the name, but couldn’t resist following local tradition…

The boulder is below a SE facing slope among tall trees on the gloomy east side of the Stanton hill so can be a bit slow to dry after rain. Park as for Stanton Quarry (a few hundred metres N of Stanton Lees) near the track leading into that quarry. Walk downhill toward Stanton Lees until a footpath sign pointing off left is encountered. Drop down right a little until the edge of a quarry comes into view. Walk through the quarry (someone has cleared a path for god knows what reason) until you pop out onto a hill on the other side, push on about 100m then drop down and right through more open woods. At the base of the slope cut back right (west) on yourself and follow the base of the slope for 100m or so. You should now see the boulders.

[cofe]

Nice work yoot! Don't understand the (driving) directions for Blackfoot - is parking on Chesterfield Lane, up and east of Rowsley below Fallinge?

[Bonjoy]

That sounds right. Road bikers will probably know the hill as it has some of the steepest hairpins in the peak

[Pantontino]

These look great - and some quality power yelping on Blackfoot!

[Fiend]

Bonjoy could you get any more camoflagued on Blackfoot??! If you had a beige beanie you would truly be the invisible boulderer.

Good stuff of course. Did you pick up the power screams from Spike?

[Bonjoy]

Note to self - get beige beanie.
Truth is I can't seem to get up 7b+ or harder without a squeak of some sort. Most unseemly.

[bolehillbilly]

I added a few new (or  not so new?) easier problems at Endcliff yesterday which i thought were worthwhile.  As said it's a good spot with easy access, quick drying and plenty of winter sun. I'll post some details later...

Either my visit or Bonjoy's post was timely?

[Mike Tyson]

3rd yelp the best for me. Good effort!

[bolehillbilly]

I added a few new (or  not so new?) easier problems at Endcliff yesterday which i thought were worthwhile.  As said it's a good spot with easy access, quick drying and plenty of winter sun. I'll post some details later...

I meant to type Rowsley Woods’ rather than Endcliffe which just goes to show I can’t multi-task.

There's a small circuit of Font 6a ish problems at Rowsley which I climbed on Friday afternoon. 

Below the prow is a promising looking roof

This is the obvious overhang 10m above the path.
1.  Left to right lip traverse from sitting to a mantle/rockover at the apex Font 6a  or 6a+/6b  if you eliminate the obvious foot ledge .

2.  Right to left lip traverse to same finish Font 6a/6a+.

3.  Direct line just right of centre from a sit start 6b (better than it looks).
All worthwhile and quick to dry

On the main block above containing Blackfoot climbed the aforementioned easier ones…
4. 

there’s a nice pumpy warm up traverse starting from the deluxe bivi cave that’s about 6a

finished around and up the arête is an excellent problem.

The easier up lines on the wall through the traverse look okay, are on good rock but were wet/damp.

5. 

a sit start off a jug to the right arete at 6a+ (a lower start to this is a very hard proj)

started this further right on some crimps, feet on the back wall again very good.

6-8.  About 50m to the right is a small prow/beak which has 3 steep variations finished by rollovers all about 6a.

There’s a typically rubbish low fi phone in shoe film on my vimeo for anyone interested.
https://vimeo.com/user2437426
Expect the usual: bobble hat, chalk bag, traffic noise... 

Maybe worth a watch if you were thinking of checking the place out.