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UKB Power Club Week 204 Mon 6th - Sun 12th Jan (Read 12165 times)

IS2

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Mon: Routes at Sunderland, warm up then 8 routes on the 23m walls. 6b-6c... first session since October .. felt good.

Tues: Gym 30 mins HIIT on bike, changed to 2 minute intervals, 3 x core circuit, warm up and bench press session low intensity 30kg max, legs .. toe press and glutes and press, low intensity to rehab slight hamstring pull. Shoulders set with theraband, forearm antagonists with dumbell and weighted stick.

Wed: 45mins runs, Shoulders set with theraband, forearm antagonists with dumbell and weighted stick. 3 sets 20 press ups and 3 sets 10 burpees.

Thurs: Winter bouldering comp at Eden Rock, good session, excellent problems 24 done and felt close on a couple of the harder ones

FRi: 30 mins run, weak attempt at warm up on the Stayne, but very cold and tired... so rapid retreat to Hotel.

Sat: 40 mins purgatory running round the steps circuit at Finchale, almost passing out on step 130 of 155 on the up sections each time, felt like Rocky before training.. Shoulders set with theraband, forearm antagonists with dumbell and weighted stick.

Sun: Boulders at ClimbNewcastle... warm up then working hard on 6c / 7a blocs.. got some but mainly backside kicked.

Still on schedule for Sharkathon.

shark

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2. DIY is shit and can lead to potential divorce - get someone in instead.

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JackAus

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STG: Finger recovery then V7 and DWS project.
LTG: V11

M: AM DWS before it gets too hot.
Had 5 attempts today. A couple of slaps for the top. Really need to lock allot deeper before the slap. Still about 8 inches short from topping.
Mentioned this last week but had my worst fall so far.
Mid-crux, 10m off the water, coming out of the roof and onto the face. Right foot up around my ears on a very slopey hold, bump rh to the micro crimp intermediate and the second I catch it well, foot slips. Windmill my fat arse into the water with enough rotation and height to have feet down but torso flat. Instantly winded and struggling under water. Only a couple metres from a exit ledge but took me about 30s to swim there, struggling. Sat on the ledge getting breath back for a couple of min before I could scramble out.
Video is pretty funny. Will have to post it when I get my laptop fixed.
Only had 1 attempt after the big fall. Tbh, was still in allot of pain, just forced myself back on it so I didn't get scared and wind up hating the line.
Did another lap off the 45m 7a traverse and had a couple attempts of some of the lower lines.
T: Hot. Worked until about 830pm then went for a night bouldering session. Rained when I got to the crag (massive roof cap on entire crag) making it really humid and sticky. Didn't climb that well. V7 project started to get wet fairly quickly, everything else is either miles too hard or I've done it... Left about midnight.
W: Felt rubbish so just an easy hour on stationary bike before working late again.
T: AM DWS. Felt pretty rubbish again. Warmed up on 7a traverse (not something I normally do. Normally just get straight on...). Timed my rests and limited myself to total of 2min spread over 2 rests. 2nd is always the longer of the 2...
Then only 1 attempt at project. Fell in the crux, held the cut, struggled to place foot then didn't hold the crimp. Didn't feel good, decided to do lower lines.
Did 2 lines, 1st is out of the first rest on traverse and 2nd is out of the 2nd (about 3/4 of the route).
Both about V3 (lower wall is only about 5m high, so lines are getting boulder grades) but both very fun. 1 involving 2 precarious mantles and the other  a wicked dyno that I flashed. Left chalk bag in the rest thinking I'd fall so did the full traverse again to get it. Struggled, pumped out of my mind... Only just made to 2nd rest...
Work late...
F: Work early. Finished at noon. Drove 2hrs to Canberra . Got word of an older, unknown V12 very local to me with loads more potential around it...
Didn't do any exercise but my work is fairly physical. Lots of lifting shit.
S: Boulder near Canberra. Already have no skin so pulling on tiny granite crimps will be fine, right? 2 of us cleaned up 4 new lines climbing 2 of them, getting V3 and V4. The V4 took us ages to work out until I found a hidden hold unlocking the whole thing. Repeated it much smoother for video. Very good climb. Shredded fingers...
S: No climbing, no work. Easy 1hr on the stationary bike before drinking through the afternoon playing with Lego....

Overall, finger is on the improve... Didn't feel good on the night boulder but then the rock at that crag always seems to savage my hands. Dws, as usual, it feels fine until the very crimpy crux. And granite bouldering, it wasn't too bad as I did my best to avoid small holds...

Kicked off my developing year. Only 99 more new lines to go...
Sunday and Monday rest. Then back on the project first thing Tuesday morning... Fingers fucking crossed...

Here's a vid of me on the project just to give you an idea of the line. It is pretty much all over if I stick the slap to the break.
This is from a week or so ago, no its not the belly flop...



Facebook, yes but should be public.


webbo

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STG Diet
LTG Diet for longer than 1 day.

Mon. Board mirror session failed due to massive power fade, possibly due to being on fasting diet. Weight 11 st 13.11 lbs
Tue. Turbo 1hr.
Wed. Turbo 1hr i planned to go on the board but felt too knackered again probably due to fasting diet.
Thu. Board pretty good session did a project although it needs to be done in better style.
Fri. Board mirror session. Diet went west due to missus inviting friends round for meal.
Sat. Dumbell session. Bike 3 hours freezing.
Sun. Board 15 problem warm up followed by a circuit of 6 problems 5 times. Bike 3 hours even colder.
Weight today Tuesday 11st 8.6 lbs 

kelvin

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2. DIY is shit and can lead to potential divorce - get someone in instead.

Word

Correct. Use professionals and keep people like me in work.

Dolly

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M Pilates
T Foundry board - felt nails and I struggled
W Gym core and some aero at the gym
T Big long good session in the shed. Battered afterwards
F
S Knackered
S Despite a cold dry early morning in Sheff it was disappointingly wet at Birchens. Thought it was going to be too cold for eatswood. Did some easier problems including Hornblower which was very good but I didnt find easy at all. Rain came in so left it.


Generally a good almost booze free week. My knee still not right but I'm losing weight. As soon as its a little warmer I'll be down to eatswood again to (hopefully) polish off the traverse

Luke Owens

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Had a great week this week. Major breakthrough on the indoor routes and a boiling hot day out at Porth Ysgo on the weekend!

Monday: Lunch gym session:

6 x 8 Offset Pullups (Alternate Hands)

10 Dips
10 Tricep Curls
3 x 10 Bicep Curls (15kg)
3 x 10 Bentover Shoulder Flys
3 x 10 Lunges (35kg)
3 x 10 Hanging Leg Raises

Evening:
30 Mins Aerocap

Tuesday: Indoor Bouldering:
3 x V0-V1
3 x V2-V3
5 x V3-V4
2 x V5-V7
1 x V7 (2nd go, this was soft and not V7)

Tried a couple of other V7's and some hard V6.

Finished off on some roof problems and got pumped. While pumped I jumped on the Piscobloc pumpy 6c route and managed it with ease (Happy with this!).

Thumb Weights:

All with left & right hand:
10kg x 10
12kg x 10
15kg x 8
18kg x 5

Wednesday: Rest

Thursday: Indoor Routes:
20 routes in total, did my nemesis the 6c+ roof 5 times!

5, 5+, 6a, 6a, 6a+, 6b, 6b+, 6b+, 6c+, 6c+
6c+, 6c+, 6c+, 6c+, 6b+, 6b+, 6b, 6a, 5+, 5+

Friday: Rest

Saturday: Porth Ysgo:
The Ysgo Flange - V2
The Ysgo Flange (Direct) - V3/4
Truth - V1
Higginson's Scar - V4 (One of the best!)
Incredible Shaking Man - V3
Perrin's Crack - V2
Here Comes The Sun - V2 (Highball!)
Closer - V3
The Ysgo Crack - V1

Latched the big move on Jawbreaker (V5) 4 times but couldn't get the heel on. Skin was trashed, need to start that end of the beach first next time.

Sunday: Rest - Wanted to do aerocap but skin completely gone.

iain

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Enjoying climbing but no psyche for training at the mo so giving power club a break for a while.

Duma

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STG - get up to speed without reinjuring anything
MTG - keep niggles in check, run regularly, get out more. If I do any hard stuff that'll be nice too.
LTG - 8A, 68kg

M - sleep till midday after nights, drive to cornwall, drink too much
T - walk along coast, watch waves, play on beach, drink too much
W - back to bris, collect bits for new bike
T - Redpoint for relaxed potter. any training benefit almost certainly cancelled out by burger and pint in bar afterward
F - more bike bits arriving, work.
S -  work, build bike
S - work
 
69.5kg

kelvin

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Enjoying climbing but no psyche for training at the mo so giving power club a break for a while.

Psyche comes and goes eh? Enjoy   :)

stvey1987

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Monday -  Stretching (~45mins) to increase flexibility.
Tuesday - Indoor bouldering after work, ~2hrs 45min. After warming up got on the newly set circuit V4-V5.
Wednesday - Rest, light stretching.
Thursday - Indoor bouldering after work, ~ 2hrs 30min. After warming up got on variety of newly set problems V4-V6 range, then twice round french 6c+ on circuit wall (failed on second attempt, lost quite a bit of the small amount of fitness I built up before xmas). Finished with some tricep dips (3*6) and some BM 35 pull ups (~10 in total), these felt harder than before xmas again....
friday - rest day.
sat - Outdoors - churnet. Gentleman's rock - tried reversing low traverse into lock it to the pocket, tried martin's mono problem.
sun - 30min core, stretching to increase flexibility.

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STG1 - January Sharkathon
STG2 - Trip to Red River Gorge 1st week of March - OS 5.13a, RP multiple 5.13's. 
MTG - 8B FA

M- Max Hangs, Run 3mi, 90min moonboard session
T- 2hr Moonboard session, 30 min conditioning
W- 30min/4mi run
Th- Max Hangs, Run 3mi
F- Yoga 1hr
S- Max Hang, run 3mi
S- 45min Yoga
Good Week!

 

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