[Fiend]

@ Slackline....

Yes, thank you, I did see that. I also saw his comments like:

this sort of straw clutching is depressing.
I'm swimming against a tide of total blind idiocy here
The forum is UK Bouldering not UK Alice in bastard Wonderland.

And about twice as much again of sarcasm amounting to the same thing.


GCW: Schrodinger's crimp!! The problem is, once you successfully pull on the crimp, it is now a climbed problem, and one will never know whether it was previously climbed or not...

[petejh]

Perhaps we should have a little symbol in the profile bit on the left - like the 'instant message' symbol but to show that you either are or are not a believer in G od. A symbol of a little fishy perhaps... 

Trouble is 99% of us on here are unqualified to have an opinion on whether JG did Shadowplay, VNB, Walk Away ss or Il Pirata. Jasper and Fiend included. And if he did do even one of those then it obviously makes his claim of the others (including Hubble) much stronger. Like Nemo points out, it really doesn't take much effort for John to hook-up with a couple of strong wads to go and see if he can remember the moves on Shadowplay and one or two of the others. Likewise it doesn't take much effort on the part of said wads to take time out from their busy bouldering/filming schedules to contact John to arrange this. John hints in the interview that he'd like some of his hardest things to get a bit of attention, so all it requires is for a couple of people to show willing and make the effort to communicate and arrange to hook-up, and for John to reciprocate. Doesn't need to be filmed.

[Nick B]

it doesn't take much effort on the part of said wads to take time out from their busy bouldering/filming schedules to contact John to arrange this. John hints in the interview that he'd like some of his hardest things to get a bit of attention

Many of John's harder problems (At the heart of it all, Shadowplay etc...) have been looked at by quite a few people operating at a world class level. Admittedly never with John present, but you'd think with the experience these people have they'd be able to conceive a sequence or perhaps pull on to the holds.

[petejh]

I know, which is why he needs to be there to show them what he did, or it all comes out in the wash as BS. It's the only way.

[Doylo]

Hasn't Greg seen him on At the Heart of it All? Gregoire?

[petejh]

You've seen the grips on Shadowplay no?
http://www.hardclimbs.info/ascents/john-gaskins-shadowplay
 

[Probes]

     

Jasper for someone who seems to be on the side of "asking for clarity", that is a pretty obfuscatious answer 

I give up.

Finally

What the fuck is that supposed to mean? Seriously, I realise I'm swimming against a tide of total blind idiocy here but what the fuck?

My comment was made because it's very easy to have a look at who posted the last positive karma and equate that to my previous post. I said "I give up" because I didn't think it would be necessary to point this obvious, simple shit out.

I expected better on here, it's a fucking shame. The forum is UK Bouldering not UK Alice in bastard Wonderland.

For the record, I'd love it if John proved the fact that he can climb hard problems by actually climbing a hard problem in front of someone or on film. He says he's climbing 8B at the moment on a regular basis (a lowly level for him) so that shouldn't be tricky. In fact, it should be a lot less tricky than managing to not climb anything hard ever in front of anybody despite being the best climber in the world for more than ten years.

I'm not calling anyone a liar, I just like seeing good climbers climb hard stuff, well. It tends to be all the evidence anyone needs to prove that someone is a good climber.

Agree with that Pete, would be good to see a few more folk around here. The God botherers alike. They'd then realise that these problems are actually conceivable by those with the ability and maybe they'd take the God worshipping with the pinch of salt it should. Its really not difficult if you feel you need to, to rationalise how these problems go, and how John would be capable of doing them. Seeing these problems tried and being around them... Ive never questioned there plausibility. I'm not going to try and do it for you, do it yourself you obviously need to, you might finally give up (thought you had already). A great interview and partial insight slowly being tainted. Shame. Thought Ukb was better than this.

[SA Chris]

I just hope he doesn't read this. Will look like a bit of a smack in the face after agreeing to give the interview and share the session, when he's obviously not into the whole publicity thing.

Happy Christmas everybody.

[Fiend]

True.

Sorry for my role in prolonging any debate. I just wanted people to be open about their positions - something I want in any of these "controversies". I'm not that bothered about any controversy itself, well apart from still wanting to know more about the Si Connor thing, but that's only because he's completely demented.

At the end of the day it was a pretty enjoyable if unrevelatory interview, and I still like the picture of John on VNB, that looks ace.

[Greg C]

Seeing these problems tried and being around them... Ive never questioned there plausibility.

That's a very broad brush approach, however I agree with you on the whole. That said, I disagree regarding Shadowplay. On this I'm more inclined to agree with Nemo and possibly even Gaskins' own assertion (see interview); that it possibly isn't climbable anymore. Therein lies a big issue: it's Britain's hardest boulder problem and I think anyone with a passion for British bouldering would like to know categorically whether it still exists. If Gaskins ever had any interest in its place in history (which presumably he did as he reported it in the first place), I would have thought he would have liked to have laid the issue to rest and travelled the 17 miles from his house to the climb to check out whether it is still in the same state. For goodness sake, he agreed to an interview which is featured on three national climbing websites, including the BMC's. Surely he realised they (Simon) might have asked him about his hardest ascents and be angling for a few juicy insights? Whether it's easy for you or anyone else to think they can conceive of how a line is climbed, I don't think it's too much to ask for a first ascentionist to give a coherent description for what they've done.

You've asserted on here and Facebook that it is obvious where A Moment of Clarity goes. Well yes I know what you are saying, but are you suggesting that when it comes to documenting a climb we are to ignore the information given by the first ascentionist in preference of where the best line goes? Because to my mind what John said he did (stated over numerous emails) on that piece rock doesn't sound like the line you or I would probably conceive of from viewing it on either a rope or from the ground. Incidentally, I asked him to go up there with me when he first reported it (apparently 15 months after climbing it) as I have long been in awe of this climb and was thrilled at the prospect of seeing it climbed, even if just on a top rope. He said no because he wouldn't be able to do it anymore and that was that.

[Greg C]

I just hope he doesn't read this. Will look like a bit of a smack in the face after agreeing to give the interview and share the session, when he's obviously not into the whole publicity thing.

Happy Christmas everybody.

Obviously there's two main assertions going on in this thread, but from my own point of view I believe he's climbed everything he's claimed but have long been confused regarding the details of a small percentage of John's hard climbs. I really don't think there's any harm in outlining these holes in the collective knowledge if it's done in the right way. To be honest I was really hoping he was going to plug these gaps in the interview, alas.

Nevertheless, Happy Christmas to you too. 

[gme]

I personally think john did all the things he claims to have done. They are either really hard, have changed since he did them, most likely, or no one has really gone and put in the effort required to do them as they are pretty uninspiring problems in obscure places. They all look pretty shit to me.
There have been many instances of disbelief being down to people not trying. Careless torque being a classic example where many doubted Ron had done it and it was deemed 8B or more. Turns out people just didn't try it enough, now it's been done a few times the aura has gone. No doubt that many could have done it years ago. Brad pit is the same.
Smiley buttress?  Because Ben said it was living end no one bothered trying. Turns out to be 8A/B and I guess within reach of a few.
The only thing that I find wierd is john not remembering sequences on shadow play, it must have taken him a bit of time and effort and you would think he would remember every nuance.
Other than that I thought the interview was a bit boring, a verbal version of si Pantons article. But I don't know what everyone was expecting.

[kelvin]

The only thing that I find wierd is john not remembering sequences on shadow play, it must have taken him a bit of time and effort and you would think he would remember every nuance.
.

I have a crap memory but I thought this odd - I'd want to sort it if I was him, especially as it's only down the road.

It matters not in the end. It looks a crappy piece of rock to my eye, unlike The Rail thing that got done this year and for me. I'd have thought you really gotta want to climb a line to be motivated to spend time on it. Shadowplay just looks rubbish. Spend days projecting that or head over to Engelberg and project the V15 that Ondra could only manage the moves on... seems an easy decision to me.



If I've learnt anything from the interview, it's that his choice in boulders wasn't the best, even if his climbing was.

[dave]

Choice of boulders not the best? He had some rock near him and found a few things he was psyched for, seems like a good choice for me. He saw enough quality to satisfy him. Not everyone wants to move to sheffield or colorado. i've got more respect for that than people who live in the UK and have to fly to switzerland to do anything hard.

[slackline]

If I've learnt anything from the interview, it's that his choice in boulders wasn't the best, even if his climbing was.

Not everyone wants to or can dedicate themselves to traveling/living around the world solely climbing the hardest thing in the world, there other things in people's lives that get in the way, like companionship/partners, jobs (some people enjoy their work as well as climbing), family life etc. .  Thus convenience outweighs choice of boulders.

I.e. What dave said.

[kelvin]

Everyone is different I guess. Seeing as I've got a two hour drive to the nearest piece of rock in any direction, the venue and crag matter to me immensely but it's been my choice to stay living here and take the hit in time and fuel to get outside.

My thoughts were more along the lines that a sponsored wad has the choice - problems like on Fuchs Stein or something like Shadowplay. I wouldn't have thought many would choose Kentmere.

[abarro81]

My thoughts were more along the lines that a sponsored wad has the choice - problems like on Fuchs Stein or something like Shadowplay.

Doubt Gaskins ever made enough from sponsors to live on did he?

[moose]

He was sponsored by Boreal, that always struck me as more of a handicap than a boon to his climbing!

[Monolith]

I think Kentmere is a beautiful spot and Shadowplay a great (if potentially damaged) line. Everything I'd look for in a hard bloc problem.

[Probes]

Seeing these problems tried and being around them... Ive never questioned there plausibility.

That's a very broad brush approach, however I agree with you on the whole. That said, I disagree regarding Shadowplay. On this I'm more inclined to agree with Nemo and possibly even Gaskins' own assertion (see interview); that it possibly isn't climbable anymore. Therein lies a big issue: it's Britain's hardest boulder problem and I think anyone with a passion for British bouldering would like to know categorically whether it still exists. If Gaskins ever had any interest in its place in history (which presumably he did as he reported it in the first place), I would have thought he would have liked to have laid the issue to rest and travelled the 17 miles from his house to the climb to check out whether it is still in the same state. For goodness sake, he agreed to an interview which is featured on three national climbing websites, including the BMC's. Surely he realised they (Simon) might have asked him about his hardest ascents and be angling for a few juicy insights? Whether it's easy for you or anyone else to think they can conceive of how a line is climbed, I don't think it's too much to ask for a first ascentionist to give a coherent description for what they've done.

You've asserted on here and Facebook that it is obvious where A Moment of Clarity goes. Well yes I know what you are saying, but are you suggesting that when it comes to documenting a climb we are to ignore the information given by the first ascentionist in preference of where the best line goes? Because to my mind what John said he did (stated over numerous emails) on that piece rock doesn't sound like the line you or I would probably conceive of from viewing it on either a rope or from the ground. Incidentally, I asked him to go up there with me when he first reported it (apparently 15 months after climbing it) as I have long been in awe of this climb and was thrilled at the prospect of seeing it climbed, even if just on a top rope. He said no because he wouldn't be able to do it anymore and that was that.

No slight on your need for clarity on Johns description dude, the photo was merely to indicate to those unfamiliar with the crag, that the line is very obvious when seem in scale against a person, and the adjacent routes. 

[abarro81]

the photo was merely to indicate to those unfamiliar with the crag, that the line is very obvious when seem in scale against a person, and the adjacent routes.

As someone unfamiliar with the crag or problem, whilst the line may be very obvious, I've certainly not got the impression that theproblem is necessarily obvious.

[a dense loner]

  this threads amazing.
Gaskins is a controversial figure, no one can doubt that so what did people think would happen as soon as he was interviewed. Controversy.
I've heard people say he's really nice and humble, I've also heard him described as a very strange egocentric. Lots of people haven't believed a word of what he's said over the years while lots of people have believed every word. What else is the outcome gonna be? It can't be anything else!
He had a reputation among certain people before going to the Jura, when there he did zerberus quickly and gossip. When challenged by the first ascentionist, who is out of his mind btw, it turns out he did something else entirely. So now what goes thro the f.a's head?he already had seeds of doubt planted in his head from friends and then the guy describes a different problem and can't do the moves on the actual one. Which is an absolute path compared to gossip. This is all on the net already and is widely known.
Then there's every single hard boulder prob f.a in Britain, and hard repeats. Not one witness, not one that I know of nor it seems anyone else. This isn't to say he hasn't done these things but some people don't do the blind faith bit.
People seem to be talking about kaizen as some sort of crazy proof, kaizen hasn't been repeated. The big bloody starting hold fell off. A new version of kaizen has been done. Without going on about stuff like athoia and walk away let's cut to the chase with the big guns.
Shadowplay, the problem that didn't even have a name for a while. Touted as the hardest problem in the world by some, even now. Can't remember sequences? Let's see I build a model of Hubble on my board and train on it specifically. Il pirata I have a 1% success rate on a single move. For people that are unaware that means I've had at least 100 goes on this prob. I'll remember the sequence. Shadowplay is not these problems it's a league above, I'd remember.
As for moment of clarity, from reading what's already been wrote on this. No one has the faintest idea. Apt name I see.
Now people can take away what they want from the above. I know John was tired the day he met bock, it's already been stated. He's been seen by a couple of people doing a couple of moves. Wtf? Seriously? Is this what's supposed to sate the appetites of the masses? Now this doesn't matter to john, he doesn't climb for others. My opinion wouldn't matter either since when it comes down to it I work hard to be shit.
However, the stuff that's been claimed if looked at in the cold light of day would raise 2 eyebrows on anyone with eyes.

[abarro81]

I work hard to be shit.

Too right. Most would have caved and done some climbing after a few hours at the wall but you stick resolutely to drinking coffee and dishing out abuse. That's dedication. 

[a dense loner]

Stick to what you're good at I always say.
Let's not go off the rails too much here.

[fatdoc]

I just hope he doesn't read this. Will look like a bit of a smack in the face after agreeing to give the interview and share the session, when he's obviously not into the whole publicity thing.

Happy Christmas everybody.

Best post of the year for me.. FFS people....  last time I used that little pic thing I got the bad karma I own... No doubt I'm about to get avoed... But this it frankly so fucking awful I don't give a shit... Merry fucking Christmas...