[kingholmesy]

My short question is how can I best train ancap on my beastmaker?

I will add a bit more background though, not least because I'm not sure I actually know what ancap means. 

I want to improve my sports redpointing.  Target routes are in the 7b+ to 7c+ range, 20 meters or less, with shorter sections of quite sustained hard-ish climbing but no single stopper moves.

There are a couple of routes where I've done all the moves quickly and done some good links, but that I don't feel close to leading because I feel like I've powered out before the crux sections - not super pumped, more that I just can't keep making reasonably hard moves.

So, what do I need to train to do these types of routes?  And how can I best do it on a fingerboard, given the shit walls near me? 

All advice gratefully received.

Ta, Luke.

[Luke Owens]

I always have the same problem of being able to do all the moves easily but powering out.

In the summer I had a 7b+ project. It ended up taking me about 7 sessions in total to get it ticked. I went from powering out all over it to ticking it reletively quickly.

I think the one thing that helped the most was the Feet-On Campusing which I did with a Beastmaker and a chair for the feet.

In April all I could manage was (It felt like the living end):
5 x (1:30 on, 2 mins rest x 3 - Rest 6 minutes)

This was way too much and took about an hour and a half! The massive 6 minute rest was also pointless and made it a lot easier. I slimed it down and then did the below. No long rests, seemed to suite the shorter routes.

By the end of the summer with reletive ease I was doing:
8 x (2 mins on 2 mins rest)

I feel this massively helped my Ancap but, in general I have rubbish Aerocap. I cant recover on rests no matter how good and training Ancap just allowed me to blast through the moves.

More recently I've been training on indoor routes and powerful big moves on big holds are not my forte. My high point indoors is 7a but I found the powered out feeling I was getting was due to lack of rest and over-training.

Some old threads of mine:
Feet-on Campusing -
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,22064.0.html

To Redpoint or Not to Redpoint - http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,22166.0.html

And a recent one on "Powering Out":
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,23330.0.html3

Hope this helps.

[kingholmesy]

Thanks for the reply Luke, and especially the links to your earlier threads.

The route I'm trying has 7 or 8 moderately hard moves, followed by a similar number of easier moves, then maybe 8 to 10 quite hard (for me) moves to a jug.  The last couple of moves will definitely be the redpoint crux, though I'm yet to get there on lead.

Compared to this, the routines that I currently do on my fingerboard are either:

Foot-on sessions of 2 mins 10 secs on the board, followed by 3 mins rest x 5 sets.  Rest for 6 mins and then do another 5 sets.

Or

Repeaters - 7 secs on, 3 secs off x 5 sets.  Rest 5 mins then do another 5 sets.  Further rest 5 mins then do another 5 sets.


Does anyone have a view whether this is a good use of my time.  I feel like I should maybe replace the first routine with something that entails fewer but more intense sets?

[nai]

Never tried it for a sustained period but you could try this:

[kelvin]

Repeaters - 7 secs on, 3 secs off x 5 sets.  Rest 5 mins then do another 5 sets.  Further rest 5 mins then do another 5 sets.


Does anyone have a view whether this is a good use of my time.  I feel like I should maybe replace the first routine with something that entails fewer but more intense sets?

Firstly - I'm a pretty rubbish climber.

Last year I was struggling with power endurance so had a session with Alex Fry, who's pretty strong generally and known for setting powerful routes indoors. I had been doing repeaters much like yours above and whilst my fingers got stronger, I was still running out of steam two thirds of the way up a route.

He told me to do repeaters like this. 14 reps of 7/3 with one foot on - 8 sets of those. Thing was, he only allowed me a minute's rest between sets. Yep, just 1 full minutes rest! Never seems long enough but with a foot on it's doable.

Maybe worth a try? Seems a more 'climbing' realistic way of doing repeaters for routes as I'm not often gonna cut loose on a route or have more than a minutes rest on the way to the top.

[Nibile]

Years ago I used to do sessions like this:

1 min on the sloper + as long as possible on the small rung followed by
20 seconds on the big rung + 5 pull ups (in 10 seconds) x 2 + as long as possible on the small rung.
Hence the two minutes on the beast.

Otherwise I used to do this session: 15 different 10 seconds hangs with 3 pull ups on the small rungs after each hang. That was one set.
IIRC I used to do 2 sets with a short rest then a good rest, all three times so six sets in total.
That was good volume for me: 90 hangs (15 minutes of hanging in total) and 270 pull ups.
 

[kingholmesy]

Ta for the replies.

Kelvin - is that all you would do in a session?  Excluding a warm up that's less than 30 mins work, which is all good given that I have family duties, but doesn't seem that much if I'm only climbing/training 3 or 4 times a week.  Also, I assume that for the repeaters you use a variety of grips such as slopers, half crimp, back, middle and front two?

Nibble - if I attempted 270 pull-ups in a session I think my lats would be fucked for a month.

[kingholmesy]

Hmm, so I just gave your workout a go Kelvin.  I did 10 sets of various grips, with 1 minute rest between each.  TBH although it got a pump going, I didn't feel like each set was intense enough to be training what I need to target for the routes I want to do.

What I want to emulate is the difficulty of doing 10 to 15 sustained moves.  I| think I need to do fewer, harder sets with longer rest between them.  Any more suggestions for this, given limited access to decent training facilities?