Quote from: lagerstarfish on December 18, 2013, 07:02:08 amjust make sure he doesn't fall into the trap of bouldering for funIf he comes to my camp that will never happen. It will be bouldering for survival.
just make sure he doesn't fall into the trap of bouldering for fun
Maybe you're a non-responder to hypertophy stimulus... http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/health-17177251Anyone else see the horizon programme last year about aerobic responders and non-responders? Pretty cool. The genetic test they used is available commercially from XE Genomics.
Quote from: Nibile on December 18, 2013, 08:47:31 amQuote from: lagerstarfish on December 18, 2013, 07:02:08 amjust make sure he doesn't fall into the trap of bouldering for funIf he comes to my camp that will never happen. It will be bouldering for survival.I heard your flat was spartan but what they meant was Spartan
The genetic test they used is available commercially from XE Genomics. It currently only tests for aerobic fitness but there's talk of one in the future which can test for strength.
I went from being able to climb some v10's in 3-5 sessions, to being able to climb most v10's in a session, and upped my max from v10 to v12. And I'm 100% confident the finger training was the reason, as I was literally doing 3 MAW session in a week and climbing 1 day outside. That's it, no campusing no climbing in the gym, nothing else really. But I'm not 100% convinced they did any better than repeaters or some other mechanism for fingerboarding would have done, as I didn't/don't have a long experience with fingerboarding in general. My fingers were without a doubt my weakpoint, so by actively addressing them, I saw massive gains.
Hi Pete do you have a link for this as I've googled XE genomics but can't get anything useful
Quote from: Sasquatch on December 13, 2013, 07:02:14 pmI went from being able to climb some v10's in 3-5 sessions, to being able to climb most v10's in a session, and upped my max from v10 to v12. And I'm 100% confident the finger training was the reason, as I was literally doing 3 MAW session in a week and climbing 1 day outside. That's it, no campusing no climbing in the gym, nothing else really. But I'm not 100% convinced they did any better than repeaters or some other mechanism for fingerboarding would have done, as I didn't/don't have a long experience with fingerboarding in general. My fingers were without a doubt my weakpoint, so by actively addressing them, I saw massive gains. I think the above is worth highlighting in that it illustrates that (in this case for an experienced climber where fingers really are a weak point) how much can be achieved to improve at bouldering in so little time if the activities are focussed enough. The same was outlined by John Kettle in a recent UKC article http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=5597 where he went from Font7B to Font7C+ in a year on an average of 2.1 sessions a week of training and/or climbing averaging 6hours a week. It begs the question whether less can be more, and more can be counter productive (sometimes) ? In any case more isn't an option for most of us timewise and because were not conditioned for it.
My end goals aren't bouldering ones so more volume of climbing/training is required than the above I think. Activity on 5 days a week is possible taking mon and fri as rest days with an easier week once a month. Ill do the fingerboarding on Tues and Sat mornings so that I'm fresh for them and can go bouldering later in the day. If 5 days proves too much Ill have a rest day on Weds too.
My current thinking is to stick to the Max hangs twice a week for a month or two (or the gains stop) on the #10 rather than the #5 (or is it the other way round) then switch to repeaters/intermittent hangs for a bit more fingery endurance as the season approaches. I'll go bouldering 5 times a week indoors and outdoors stopping strong and introducing more variety. I'll develop an intimate relationship with the undercuts on the Foundry 40degree board and do longer linkups for AnCap/PE again as the season approaches. Might throw in a little weightlifting too.
Shark The bits where you say you'll throw in repeaters and ancap as the season approaches - this is totally the wrong way round. These things are your base and should be trained first, I.e now. They take longer to develop than power hence training them first. It's also likely you'll get more improvement from your max hangs if you do them after a solid base of repeaters. Everything else sounds grand but my advice is to spend two months doing repeaters and ancap, then switch to max hangs as the season approaches.
Sort of +1 to what Sasquatch said, except that repeaters are sort of in between hypertrophy and ancap for the forearms and will improve both.
I don't really understand the physical/metabolic subtleties of hypertrophy or ancap, but there's got to be significant cross-over given the work and rest times, especially if you work at the strengthy end of ancap, say 12mvs ish or maybe 30sec and something like a 1:4 work:rest ratio.
Hypothetically it could be thought of like this(THIS IS COMPLETELY MADEUP TO SHOW A CONCEPT):1 Rep = 100% MAX STR2 REP = 95% Max STR, 5% Hyper3 REP = 90% Max STR, 10% Hyper4 REP = 80% Max STR, 20% Hyper5 REP = 70% Max STR, 30% Hyper6 REP = 60% Max STR, 40% Hyper7 REP = 40% Max STR, 60% Hyper8 REP = 20% Max STR, 80% Hyper9 REP = 10% Max STR, 80% Hyper, 10% Str End10 REP = 10% Max STR, 70% Hyper, 20% Str End11 REP = 60% Hyper, 40% Str End12 REP = 40% Hyper, 60% Str EndEtc.
I heard your flat was spartan but what they meant was Spartan
I can see why nobody pays good money for a personal training committee
Shark: Can you calculate the gains you've made through each cycle of MAW you've done? Take the % increase vs. total hanging weight.
Quote from: Teaboy on December 18, 2013, 10:25:01 amHi Pete do you have a link for this as I've googled XE genomics but can't get anything usefulMy mistake it's XR Genomics not XE. Here: http://www.xrgenomics.com/I see they've canned the cheaper basic test and now just offer the 'predictor test+' which comes with a long report, yours for £150. They did send me another test kit when they lost my original saliva sample (not blood sample as I said earlier - that was an omega 3/6 ratio test, too many tests!), but I never got around to re-doing it and it's sitting there unused.