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Comus @ Stanage (Read 2209 times)

Fiend

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Comus @ Stanage
December 12, 2013, 12:05:39 pm
Got completely shut down by this. Just wondering if I was missing anything:

Stand in break. RH in peg/ballnut pocket just right of flake. LH up to very sharp 2/3 finger pocket pinch in middle of flake. LF up to good juggy rocking block in break. Stretch up and touch edge of lone 2 finger pocket in wall above. Unable to move.....and???

Johnny Brown

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#1 Re: Comus @ Stanage
December 12, 2013, 06:27:41 pm
I've always just bouldered it out. There is a reach, you commit, and it eases off rapidly. Sorry not to be more help, I wanted to do it the other day but there were too many punters around.

nic mullin

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#2 Re: Comus @ Stanage
December 12, 2013, 07:20:17 pm
I found the gear in the pocket (I had a small cam in there, which pulled when I fell on it anyway) got in the way of where I wanted my left foot, both to hold, and move off the "lone" 2 finger pocket. Without the gear in there it was much easier. As JB says, after the long move from the 2 finger pocket to the first of the breaks at 20 feet or so, it eases off and is about VS to the top.

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#3 Re: Comus @ Stanage
December 12, 2013, 07:30:09 pm
So basically I need to get on the Beastmaker duos  >:(

Boredboy

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#4 Re: Comus @ Stanage
December 12, 2013, 07:34:38 pm
I remember a long reach which felt committing then easy after.

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#5 Re: Comus @ Stanage
December 12, 2013, 07:41:36 pm
It was full extension for me to get the pocket. Where is the "midget" emoticon?

 

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