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Crimping with your thumb (Read 9409 times)

skelf

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#25 Re: Crimping with your thumb
January 18, 2014, 07:41:39 pm
Picture one for me too.
I've even managed to tear my skin at the nail bed due to excessive crimp action with the thumb.  :o

Don't think I can get my fingers into the position of pic two. Freak!

SEDur

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#26 Re: Crimping with your thumb
January 18, 2014, 09:08:45 pm
My fingers don't extend like in either picture (looking like they are going to snap) very well, so I never crimp like that.
I tend to use my thumb as much as possible though, either on another part of the hold or turning the hold into a sort of pinch style affair.

In the past on some really gash holds (undercut sidepull of out of my boots), I have tried to throw my thumb well over my index and middle finger in a sort of bizarre claw shape. It doesn't really work as well as half crimping though.

mindfull

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#27 Re: Crimping with your thumb
January 18, 2014, 09:21:01 pm
Different for different people with different abillities ... I think. How much can you flex each finger and other muscles in the hand, how are the muscles in your forearms recruited, ...
Rhetorical question IMHO. Will depend on your talents and weaknesses, and training. This is not yet a definite science?

 

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