small update after 8 consecutive days of fine climbing in annot and verdon (off topic: the trad climbing annot is even better than i thought. Not sure it is worth a trip from the UK but still really, really good...)
to stay in topic. Even if i did not have true restdays, i only really tested my day-to-day fitness at the end of the trip, one day in "estamporanée" (verdon classic crack system including a famous OW) and the next having a miniproject on a indiancreekesque system of thin cracks and corners, in too warm conditions and with half a liter of water for the day...
as far as the multiday fitness goes it was already better than 2 months ago, even though i still felt tired the day after estampo...
as far as sidetopics go...
finger cracks and slabs oddly felt easy this time...don't know if it's a matter of rock/style (mostly corners rather than true splitters, used to sandstone feel, etc), local grading, or real improvement.
OW were very random, despite always having the same grade (6c), sometimes they spanked me, sometimes they were easier than expected, even though a rough pattern says that smaller OW sizes (handstacks, kneelocks) feel physically harder and more technically requiring than wider ones (armbars, chicken wings).
