[Luke Owens]

All booked for a family trip to Font for a week at the end of October with my partner and 1 year old son.

I know these threads have been done to death but I'm just too psyched! I've previously been to Font for a day on the way back from Ceuse last year for a day and we just ran around sabots climbing anything in sight so I don't know much about the area's.

I'm looking to hopefully get a 7A ticked while I'm out there (Only done 2 in the UK) and get on plenty of easier stuff too. I know about the main area's which are easy to get too, any suggestions on other problem's/area's (mainly area's) other than the below?

My partner climbs too and she's psyched for some easy circuits. All the 7's are ones I'd like to try (Not expecting to do them all!).

Roche aux Sabots
Jet Set - 7A
Graviton - 7A
L'Oblique - 7A
Le Jeu Du Toit - 7A
L'Angle à Jean-Luc - 6C
Chapeau Chinois - 6B
L'Auriculaire - 6A

Cul de Chien
Le Toit du Cul de Chien - 7A
Presse Citron - 6A

95.2
Retour Aux Sources - 7A
Le P'tit Toit / Le Tourniquet - 6B+
Duel dans la Lune - 6C

Cuvier
Holey Moley - 7A
La Joker - 7A
Duroxmanie - 6C
La Marie Rose - 6A
Science Friction - 5C

Elephant
Le Coeur - 7A
Le Lépreux direct - 7A
La Voie Michaud - 6C
Le Surplomb de la Loupe / Le Toit du Loup - 6B

Petit Bois
La Baleine - 7A+
Big Jim - 6C

The only reason I've put Petit Bois down is because the pockets on Big Jim look amazing, no idea if this is a good place to take a little one? Anyone know any other good pocketed/mono problems?

The above will probably keep us busy for the week...

Cheers!

[fried]

Petit bois is fine for little ones as there are plenty of small boulders at the beginning, plus a yellow/ blue/ red circuit. Just be careful with the weather as it's the dampest place in the forest with very little, consequently it's a bit gloomy unless the sun is out. The rock is also soft, so take care to let it dry out properly.

I was climbing with a group of lads for the best part of a week and they rated Big Jim as the best problem they'd tried in the forest. Also have a look at La Baleine (7A) and for something a bit easier Quelle conque (red 11) (5C) is a gem.

Elephant is the only other place that comes to mind for pocketed stuff.

[finbarrr]

great list, couple of pointers:
when in bas cuvier, don't spend too much time:
- looking for Science Friction (there is a nice slab of that name in Apremont)
- trying la joker, it's hard as

[nai]

My family's favourite font area by far is Sabot, easy approach, sand to play in and if you can get over or avoid the crowds there's good circuits and problems at all grades.

Graviton is ok but the top holds work better on a cool day, I found Oblique hard and tricky to avoid dabbing but may be ok if you're taller. Also Danjeur Majeur Assis (red 10) is ok if you're after any old 7.

Petit Bois I liked, family thought it ok but beware that La Baleine is quite high with scope for swinging off in many directions (again top holds conditions dependent) and Big Jim is mahoosive, definitely ones to join in with when there's a few pads already down.

Family won't go to Cuvier and can't really blame them, it's not pleasant for them, nothing below orange and everything on that circuit hard, polished and some quite high.  Saying that Duroxmanie is awesome but you'll need a spot.

The problem up at Mont Pivot near to Sabot is supposed to be good on pockets, forget the name but there's not much there.

[Fultonius]

Roche aux Sabots
Jet Set - 7A
Graviton - 7A

On the corner of this block there is Elecubration http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=88539 which is worth a try if you're floundering on Graviton.

L'Oblique - 7A  (one of my first 7As in the forest - not too bad if you are reasonably dynamic)
Le Jeu Du Toit - 7A
L'Angle à Jean-Luc - 6C
Chapeau Chinois - 6B
L'Auriculaire - 6A

Cul de Chien
Le Toit du Cul de Chien - 7A 6C+

Sa Pelle au Logis is another easy but good 7As in Gorge aux Chats. Enjoy :-)  This reminds me - I haven't been to Font in AGES!

[SA Chris]

Me neither, family trip in spring hopefully

this thread may have been written with you in mind, if you haven't seen it already.

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,4415.20.html

[dave]

Cul de chein is a good place for binlids to run around but it is a bit of a trek in, too sandy for a pushchair so you'll be carrying in.

[T_B]

There's some good stuff on this thread:

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=19618.0

[dave k]

"Graviton is ok but the top holds work better on a cool day"

Did this during the days it got 7B! The secret I seem to remember was moving slightly left to top out. Definitely made it feel more like soft 7A, than 7B

Holey Moley and Joker are problems that took me more than one visit

Le Coeur - Is definitely conditions dependent- tried it on a warmish day when I was bouldering well and got no where. Went back last spring on a cool day (a decade later or so) and it felt fine. 

[Luke Owens]

Cheers guys! Forgot to mention we're staying in Noisy-Sur-Ecole so practically right next to Sabots.

Family won't go to Cuvier and can't really blame them, it's not pleasant for them, nothing below orange and everything on that circuit hard, polished and some quite high.  Saying that Duroxmanie is awesome but you'll need a spot.

Think i'll tie in Cuvier with Apremont. I only really want to do Duroxmanie and Marie Rose. Don't want to spend long there. Apremont seems to have more easier stuff too.

Sa Pelle au Logis is another easy but good 7As in Gorge aux Chats. Enjoy :-)  This reminds me - I haven't been to Font in AGES!

Cheers, Gorge aux Chats looks awesome so will check it out.

Revised list, included the circuits that my partner can do plenty of problems on:

Roche aux Sabots
Jet Set - 7A
Graviton - 7A
Elecubration - 7A
L'Oblique - 7A
Le Jeu Du Toit - 7A
Danjeur Majeur Assis - 7A
L'Angle à Jean-Luc - 6C
Chapeau Chinois - 6B
L'Auriculaire - 6A
-
Yellow & Blue Circuits

Cul de Chien
Le Toit du Cul de Chien - 7A/6C+
Presse Citron - 6A
-
Yellow & Blue Circuits

95.2
Retour Aux Sources - 7A
Le P'tit Toit / Le Tourniquet - 6B+
Duel dans la Lune - 6C
-
Orange, Yellow & Blue Circuits

Gorge aux Châts
Ca Pell au Logis - 7A
Pareur de Pareur - 6C
Travaux Forcés - 6B
Arachnée - 6B
Dallain - 6A
-
Blue Circuit

Cuvier
Holey Moley - 7A
La Joker - 7A
Duroxmanie - 6C
La Marie Rose - 6A

Apremont
La Conque - 7A
La Lune - 6C+/7A
Jiu Jitsu - 6C
La John Gill - 6A
Science Friction - 5C
-
Orange, Yellow & Blue Circuits

Elephant
Le Coeur - 7A
Le Lépreux direct - 7A
La Voie Michaud - 6C
Le Surplomb de la Loupe / Le Toit du Loup - 6B
Le Surplomb de l'Éléphant - 6A
-
White, Yellow, Green & Blue Circuits

Petit Bois
La Baleine - 7A+
Big Jim - 6C
Quelle conque (red 11) - 5C
-
Blue Circuit

[SA Chris]

Noisy-Sur-Ecole

In my Franglais mind this translates to Noisy at School. But isn't.

(sorry - offtopic!)

[rodma]

"Graviton is ok but the top holds work better on a cool day"

Did this during the days it got 7B! The secret I seem to remember was moving slightly left to top out. Definitely made it feel more like soft 7A, than 7B

Idid it that way too, prior to realising that i had cheated so went back and did it properly.

http://bleau.info/sabots/2123.html

I found it easiest topping out legs first and palming my way up the slab, whilst facing the ground, felt pretty dicey.

[finbarrr]

Apremont is pretty dreadfull to get around, especially with a family, "ju-jitsu" and "egoiste" area is alright if you have a good guidebook (not the old purple one). 
go along the low / old tarmac road, not along the high Grand-Randonnee
science friction is a no go with a stroller.

easy access and lots of problems: Franchard Isatis /
And Franchard Cuisinere has many great problems also, though a bit further walk (have to park as for Isatis nowadays)

[rodma]

Apremont is pretty dreadfull to get around, especially with a family, "ju-jitsu" and "egoiste" area is alright if you have a good guidebook (not the old purple one). 
go along the low / old tarmac road, not along the high Grand-Randonnee
science friction is a no go with a stroller.

easy access and lots of problems: Franchard Isatis /
And Franchard Cuisinere has many great problems also, though a bit further walk (have to park as for Isatis nowadays)

At the first part of cuisiniere you get to (just beyond the top of the hill that you climb once you have left the forestry road), there are two very different style probs to try

Beetlejuice and Excalibur

This part of cuisiniere (and the rest for that matter) is pretty hilly, although nowhere near the jumble that apremont is.

[SA Chris]

Agree with finbarr, Apremont is a bit of a jumble, not ideal with a pushchair and circuits are a bit scattered, I would put it low on the list.

[Luke Owens]

Thanks guys, will scrap Apremont, don't want any epics!

Isatis and Franchard Cuisinere sound like better options. Just looked at them and I'm surprised I've overlooked them! How about these:

Isatis
El Poussah - 7A
Little Karma - 6C
Surplomb de la Coquille (Conquérance) - 6C
L'Entre Toit - 6B+
L'Angle du Sérac / L'angle Facial - 6B+
La Power-Lolotte / le Surplomb Statique - 6A+
-
Orange & Blue Circuits

Cuisinere
Beatle Juice - 7A+ (Will have a look, looks awesome probably too hard for me)
Excalibur - 7A
Tranche de Lard - 6B
La Superbe - 6A+
Moondance - 6A (This looks awesome!)
Orange & Red Circuits

[nai]

Agree with finbarr, Apremont is a bit of a jumble, not ideal with a pushchair and circuits are a bit scattered, I would put it low on the list.

Indeed and am I a philistine or is Science Friction not really worth the trek to find it?  We've been twice four years apart and both times my wife's said she won't go back. (yes the second time was a sly trick by me, we left early)

If you want to tie Cuvier in with another area there's always Rocher Canon. Popular with the group we go with, good yellow, blue and red circuits plus a few decent harder things like Kalin Des Kims and especially Chausserre des Prises:



The second problem in the video is from Canche Aux Merciers which is another good family area, lots of lowish circuits, softly graded if memory serves (I say this as the girls in our group managed most blues while normally orange would prove tricky). Not a lot of harder problems but that problem is ok and there's a funny 6C with a lie down start that finishes with a chest height mantle, seems daft to go to Font for that but it's regarded as a classic for some reason.

[nai]

You got in before me.

Re Cuisiniere, it's a bit hilly beyond the area around Excalibur, hard with young kids, but there is a 7a arete Bizarre, Bizarre that's worth finding for a soft 7a tick.

[i.munro]

Might just be me but I'd ditch the toit de cul de chien.

Trying to cope with the hideous polish and struggling to avoid  the recently  chipped holds  in order to get the 'historic' chipped holds  just seemed pointless.

[ben]

Some more suggestions/feedback

Isatis
Surplomb de la Coquille (Conquérance) - 6C
This is a bit of a trek behind Isatis (but worth it), probably worth leaving the family enscounced somewhere
+ you can try Lapin ou Canard while over there

L'Angle du Sérac / L'angle Facial - 6B+
You can also try t'other side of the arete, l'Angle Ben's

Composition des Forces 6c which is in the main area you get to is worth seeking out.

Cuisinere
If you get up into the main area (bit hilly/tricky with buggy as said), the two 'Moutons' are also good (5/6 pattes)

If you go to do Duroxmanie, you should try Festin de Pierre as well
If you're trying Gravitron you could also try the 7a to its left (Gravillon?), l'Oblique and Jeu de Toit

[Richie Crouch]

If you're mrs fancies going off for a circuit, you can offer to look After the littlun' and encamp yourself beneath beurre marga at isatis, should keep you busy for a while!

[Luke Owens]

Re Cuisiniere, it's a bit hilly beyond the area around Excalibur, hard with young kids, but there is a 7a arete Bizarre, Bizarre that's worth finding for a soft 7a tick.

Cheers, will seek that one out!

Might just be me but I'd ditch the toit de cul de chien.

Trying to cope with the hideous polish and struggling to avoid  the recently  chipped holds  in order to get the 'historic' chipped holds  just seemed pointless.

Is it really that bad? It look's a great problem but we'd only going there for that problem and my partner wants to see the Chien. Would free up time to skip it though!

Some more suggestions/feedback

Isatis
Surplomb de la Coquille (Conquérance) - 6C
This is a bit of a trek behind Isatis (but worth it), probably worth leaving the family enscounced somewhere
+ you can try Lapin ou Canard while over there

L'Angle du Sérac / L'angle Facial - 6B+
You can also try t'other side of the arete, l'Angle Ben's

Composition des Forces 6c which is in the main area you get to is worth seeking out.

Cuisinere
If you get up into the main area (bit hilly/tricky with buggy as said), the two 'Moutons' are also good (5/6 pattes)

If you go to do Duroxmanie, you should try Festin de Pierre as well
If you're trying Gravitron you could also try the 7a to its left (Gravillon?), l'Oblique and Jeu de Toit

Cheers, how big of a trek? I'll give it a miss if it's too far.

Think Cuvier will be a quick hit for Duroxmanie then head else where.

If you're mrs fancies going off for a circuit, you can offer to look After the littlun' and encamp yourself beneath beurre marga at isatis, should keep you busy for a while!

Sandbag??

[nai]

Might just be me but I'd ditch the toit de cul de chien.

Trying to cope with the hideous polish and struggling to avoid  the recently  chipped holds  in order to get the 'historic' chipped holds  just seemed pointless.

Is it really that bad? It look's a great problem but we'd only going there for that problem and my partner wants to see the Chien. Would free up time to skip it though!

As said in one the other threads it's a trek, probably a 20 minute walk-in with a section across deep sand proving frustrating and time-consuming, if you have a buggy you'll be dragging it backwards through the sand and carrying your kid. When you get there the red circuit is ok (some gems but there is everywhere) but in terms of easy 7s the roof is just about it and now you have to make sure you eliminate the chip to get the grade. Then there's a committing back-to-floor move/pop to get the decent hold round the lip.  As a classic font rite-of-passage it's right up there but in terms of the effort to get a family there and try to tick a 7a then there are better venues.  If you have rain this is an area that dries quickly though so worth bearing in mind for such days (if you've been to 95.2 already)

If you're mrs fancies going off for a circuit, you can offer to look After the littlun' and encamp yourself beneath beurre marga at isatis, should keep you busy for a while!

Sandbag??

Heard a rumour that Ben Moon struggled on/failed on/didn't flash it, probably not true but it's the sort of problem you can imagine being problematic no matter how strong you are

This is making me want to go to Font now< Easter's a loooong way away and the half term forecast is so much better than the UK.

[SA Chris]

Might be worth checking if all the car parks are open before setting off, we got scuppered by one being closed last time we were there (can't recall which now!)

[finbarrr]

Surplomb de la Coquille (Conquérance) - 6C: great problem, climbs very nicely (left sit start is 7a, i think)

little karma : not a nice as it sounds

bizarre bizarre : nice

beatle juice: complicated (too many holds, not enough good ones)

La Power-Lolotte / le Surplomb Statique - 6A+: very nice

beurre marga: supposed to be really good. i'm sure it's 6B+ if ...  no never mind, i didn't know how to pull into the wall

at franchard sablons:
http://bleau.info/sablons/612.html

[SA Chris]

And if you are with a little one take ample supply of bepanthen to nick it for soothing your raw fingertips.

[i.munro]

I'm sure you know this  but I can't emphasise enough how much it helps to take a chunk of door mat and a couple of towels. Sand gets everywhere & it sticks.

[slackline]

Wiki Sub-section of Fontainebleau for recommended places to go with kids and places to avoid

Perhaps someone with knowledge, experience and a spare few minutes could fill it in (I've no kids so don't have an opinion on venues in this regard).

[fried]

I'll do it this evening. I'm home alone.

[rodma]

beurre marga: supposed to be really good. i'm sure it's 6B+ if ...  no never mind, i didn't know how to pull into the wall

it is really good fun, took full beta from a local followed by quite a few hundred goes before i had it dialled enough that i could then run back round to stronger mates that were trying surprise and sandbag them on it.

[T_B]

I've been to Cuisiniere a few times with a pushchair. It's just the last bit that's a bit of a mission, but it's my favourite area so I'm biased. And once you're up there I think it's a good kiddy area. It's one of the best areas too if it's really hot, which is worth remembering. Retrofriction is a good, techy 7a. Le Mur Cordier is probably the most popular 7a there cos it's such a nice/obvious feature to look at but it's pretty grim to climb. La Jouissance du Massetar is steady if you're tall?

As others have said, Apremont is not great with kids, apart from Egoiste and the stuff left of that (I thought Jérémiades assis was more like 7a than 7a+).

I wouldn't bother with 95.2 unless you have to. As one of the quickest drying areas you'll end up there at some point if you become a Font regular.

Rocher Guichot is v close to where you're staying and is 20 seconds from the car. It's a good place to check on conditions if it's been damp overnight. Jour de Reve is a great little 7a http://bleau.info/guichot/1461.html

[ghisino]

just on the side of Roche aux Sabots, if you want something away from the crowds: Zen 7a.

Roche aux Oiseaux is also close by and usually less crowded. Brazil soft 7a?

The big stone of la Roche d'Hercule offers a few very fine highballish problems at grades 5+ to 7a/b, good flat landings, zero walk in, one of the best chunks of sandstone in the forest.  Can be crowded but it's local families having a walk rather than climbers!
Pilier de la roche d'hercule is a must @6b+ or 6c+ for the sitstart.
Gazoline 7a is also a classic problem starting from an obvious hueco on the left, even though the "classic" beta shown in pictures is morpho and a total nonsense for short people.
A few hundreds meters away mont ussy has decent circuits and a couple of easier, but more serious highballs.

Buthiers has a bit of everything and flat walk ins though it can be crowded, dirty and noisy since it hosts a multi-sport leisure centre.

[Fultonius]

If you're in Isatis and are any good at dynos/tall have a bash at Vin Rouge. http://bleau.info/isatis/1238.html Path if you're 6' and bouncy, desperate if not...

DFBclimbsLePareDessus: 

[Luke Owens]

Thanks everyone, tons of good advice/options! 

Think i'll tie in the Cuvier quick hit with La Roche d'Hercule as it looks awesome! Would probably need to tie this in with somewhere else too, one problem at Cuvier and 2 at d'Hercule...Then go chill out at Mont Ussy as ghisino suggested? This looks like a place that could be quiet? Or go somewhere else?

I would still like to go to 95.2, Retour aux Sources and Duel dans La Lune look incredible!

Also, which would be the best place to go first? Just so my Mrs can get into it and not be put off straight away. She's a good but not so confident climber so somewhere with the best/most sandy landings I guess, Sabots?

Updated list, Starting to think this may be too much for one week!:

Roche aux Sabots
Jet Set - 7A
Graviton - 7A
Elecubration - 7A
L'Oblique - 7A
Le Jeu Du Toit - 7A
Danjeur Majeur Assis - 7A
L'Angle à Jean-Luc - 6C
Chapeau Chinois - 6B
L'Auriculaire - 6A
-
Yellow & Blue Circuits

95.2
Retour Aux Sources - 7A
Duel dans la Lune - 6C
Le P'tit Toit / Le Tourniquet - 6B+
-
Orange, Yellow & Blue Circuits

Gorge aux Châts
Ca Pell au Logis - 7A
Pareur de Pareur - 6C
Travaux Forcés - 6B
Arachnée - 6B
Dallain - 6A
-
Blue Circuit

Cuvier
Duroxmanie - 6C
La Marie Rose - 6A

La Roche d'Hercule
Pilier De La Roche D'hercule Assis - 6C+/7A
Gazoline - 7A

Elephant
Le Coeur - 7A
Le Lépreux direct - 7A
La Voie Michaud - 6C
Le Surplomb de la Loupe / Le Toit du Loup - 6B
Le Surplomb de l'Éléphant - 6A
-
White, Yellow, Green & Blue Circuits

Petit Bois
La Baleine - 7A
Big Jim - 6C
Quelle conque (red 11) - 5C
-
Blue Circuit

Isatis
El Poussah - 7A
Surplomb de la Coquille (Conquérance) - 6C
Beurre Marga - 6B+
L'Entre Toit - 6B+
L'Angle du Sérac / L'angle Facial - 6B+
La Power-Lolotte / le Surplomb Statique - 6A+
-
Orange & Blue Circuits

Cuisinere
Bizarre, Bizarre - 7A
Retrofriction - 7A
Excalibur - 7A
Le Mur Cordier / Acier Damas - 7A
Tranche de Lard - 6B
La Superbe - 6A+
Moondance - 6A
-
Orange & Red Circuits

[lukeyboy]

95.2 is a pretty good starting place (though a bit trickier to find than some areas), nice sandy landings, not too high, good slabs / low grades.

Whilst what has been said about Cuvier (busy, polished, deviants come out once it gets dark) is all true, it is still just such high quality that you have to give it a go IMO. I think it's one of the best areas for a high concentration of 7a's which range from forest classics to worthwhile, sounds like what you're after - helicoptere, joker, charcuterie, conque a doigt, langouste royale, vaudoue systeme, holey moley, abattoir to name but a few.

[SA Chris]

First day - sabots is a good bet, but not if it's a weekend, the place is like a zoo and can be a bit intimidating. Although you could start on some of the quieter bits round the edge, and move to the middle once folk start leaving.

Canon is a good first day option too, I don't see that on your list?

[Luke Owens]

First day - sabots is a good bet, but not if it's a weekend, the place is like a zoo and can be a bit intimidating. Although you could start on some of the quieter bits round the edge, and move to the middle once folk start leaving.

Canon is a good first day option too, I don't see that on your list?

First day will probably be a Sunday so would be better to go to one of the quieter places, i've completely overlooked Rocher Canon... too many areas! Could be a better option to tie it in with Cuvier/La Roche d'Hercule rather than Mont Ussy?

[SA Chris]

Is that a question or a statement? IMO I think you are trying to rush around too much and cram it all in; you won't get everything done that you want to, and it will be a pain piling the family into and out of the car several times a day and dashing around trying to tick everything you want. Will cause too much stress all round, and potentially put people off going again.

Take time to chill out and smell the pine needles, enjoy the fine patisseries, fresh bread and cheese and take it easy at least some of the time.

[Luke Owens]

Is that a question or a statement? IMO I think you are trying to rush around too much and cram it all in; you won't get everything done that you want to, and it will be a pain piling the family into and out of the car several times a day and dashing around trying to tick everything you want. Will cause too much stress all round, and potentially put people off going again.

Take time to chill out and smell the pine needles, enjoy the fine patisseries, fresh bread and cheese and take it easy at least some of the time.

It was a question but you're right, I am getting very over excited... I also need to remember i'm on holiday and chill out...

[slackline]

I'll do it this evening. I'm home alone.

Thanks for doing this, hope you don't mind me reformatting it into a table.

[nai]

Sabot might not be that bad on a Sunday, sure it's popular but you're spared the student groups at this time of year which can make up large numbers, might find there's just a lot of French folk/families enjoying their weekend.  It's easy to find, has a quick approach, generally good landings, a low yellow for your Mrs to gain some confidence and some blues and reds for you to get a taster of things to come.  Base yourself in the trees near the yellow to start then maybe move in once you've done a few problems.  Don't rush to get on the harder problems, take your time on some appealing circuit problems and get used to things, you'll find plenty of reds to shut you down at first without having to get on the harder things. If you're lucky there'll be a local on hand to give you the beta, you may well need it on Angles de Jean Luc and Pierre Otee (14) both of which will feel the living end until you find the knack.

Another option, while a long walk, is Diplodocus - 20 minutes approach but up a fire road so ok with a buggy, nothing hard there but a very pleasant place with nice yellow, orange and blues circuits to get you going and guaranteed to be quiet.

[ben]

..to give you the beta, you may well need it on Angles de Jean Luc which will feel the living end until you find the knack.

Or indeed one may never find the knack..

[fried]

I'll do it this evening. I'm home alone.

Thanks for doing this, hope you don't mind me reformatting it into a table.

No problems, it looked a bit cluttered before. I haven't finished it yet, so if you want to point me in the direction of the instructions for adding to the table...

[slackline]

if you want to point me in the direction of the instructions for adding to the table...

I wrote some pointers here (includes link to Wikimedia help page for tables).

Easiest would be to copy a line that already exists, place it below then change the text, that way you shouldn't go too far from the simple template.

[fried]

Is that a question or a statement? IMO I think you are trying to rush around too much and cram it all in; you won't get everything done that you want to, and it will be a pain piling the family into and out of the car several times a day and dashing around trying to tick everything you want. Will cause too much stress all round, and potentially put people off going again.

Take time to chill out and smell the pine needles, enjoy the fine patisseries, fresh bread and cheese and take it easy at least some of the time.

It was a question but you're right, I am getting very over excited... I also need to remember i'm on holiday and chill out...

This is good advice. Choose one place per day and if you feel up to it you can always sneak out for an evening session, otherwise you're just going to knacker yourself.

I'm not sure when you're arriving but half-term starts next week in France, which means that Holland, Belgium and Germany won't be far behind. It will likely be busy.

For a first hit, I'd go for either

Sabots:- Plenty to do even if crowded and the blue circuit is fairly graded if polished, the red is another story...
Isatis:- Likely to be busy, but mostly flat landings, not too high and the blue/red/ white circuits are classics.
Canche aux merciers:- Smiliar to the above, but more technical climbing, more holds.

These  places are busy for a reason, large numbers of problems at various grades, flat landings, not too high , short walk-ins, easy to navigate.

Unless you hate crowds...

[Luke Owens]

I'm back and got completely spanked on everything didn't climb anything harder than 6A...

Was pretty logistically difficult trying to make sure my partner climbed what she wanted and keeping the little one happy. Felt quite rushed once It was my go so found it difficult to try hard or stay on any problem longer than 10 minutes...

If anyone's interested I've wrote it up here:

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,23169.0.html

I really enjoyed it though and so did the family and ate loads of Baggettes and Pains Au Chocolat...

[Jaspersharpe]

Know what it's like when it's just the three of you, trying to keep everyone happy can be difficult and you feel too pressured when you do get time to try something a bit harder and so climb like a twat.

On a trip like that it's best just to chill out and climb loads of easier stuff. Glad you had a good time anyway. 

[Luke Owens]

Know what it's like when it's just the three of you, trying to keep everyone happy can be difficult and you feel too pressured when you do get time to try something a bit harder and so climb like a twat.

On a trip like that it's best just to chill out and climb loads of easier stuff. Glad you had a good time anyway. 

It got to the point where I just wanted to climb easier stuff but had no idea what to get on as I never planned on that happening...

Didn't anticipate myself feeling pressured or stressed trying the harder stuff. Even though my partner is really encouraging and understanding I still felt concious of the little one needing changing/feeding/being tired etc.

I've never been so pumped in my life trying Le P'tit Toit at 95.2... I must of tried it about 10 times in 30 minutes...!

It was a good learning experiance and we'll be more clued up for next time.

[SA Chris]

Chalk it up to experience! At least you didn't get a solid week of rain. Hard to get on anything hard on your first visit, and having to cope with keeping everyone happy (including yourself).

[Luke Owens]

I think the biggest let down of the trip was my distinct lack of Pains Au Chocolat intake. I only had 4, pretty poor really. I did make up for that slightly with 3 coffee and 2 chocolate eclairs and about 6 baggette's. I will try harder next time I promise...!

Also, who said Bas Cuvier is shit, what's that about? I hadn't planned on going there and probably found it the most enjoyable place... Pure comedy seeing people actually trying to climb there when it was hammering it down on the last day as well (?!).