Quote from: Stu Littlefair on October 14, 2015, 08:03:25 amI've got some advice Nibs but you're not going to like it! [...]Alternatively Nibs could first try to make a significant improvement in strength... but I would venture a guess that is a way slower and much less sure way to improvement for him...
I've got some advice Nibs but you're not going to like it! [...]
And again, on this matter, back to my original question: should I do few sets to failure or many shorter sets with incomplete rests?
If after 2-3 weeks you don't see improvements throw my suggestion away and I buy you a drink
Quote from: filz on October 14, 2015, 02:01:46 pmIf after 2-3 weeks you don't see improvements throw my suggestion away and I buy you a drink Do we know each other?
OK, after having lunch my mind is clear. Clearly full of questions. Would lifting weights be detrimental to building aerobic endurace as Stu mentioned? And if so, why? Should I do what he advised me to do, on dedicated sessions or could it be successfuly done after bouldering? Which level of pump should I achieve and keep? Should I keep training anaerobic endurance as before, with the foot on campusing?
Nothing more to say from the stamina plodders? Where are they when we boulderers need them?
My questions are:Would I be best putting in a block of "easier" circuits more in the 10 minute light pump category for a few weeks to increase my aerobic capacity? Could I combine this with some dull fingerboard strength work?Should I leave PE (AnCap / AeroPow?) for closer to the time that I'll actually be getting out and working on problems?
Respectively, in my opinion...- Yes. But think more like a couple of months than a couple of weeks. I'd do some longer (20-30min) blocks too- Yes, I would positively advise it.- An pow and aero pow yes, an cap no - do that now.
It's on the 45 circuits board, 33 moves long and apparently ~7c+ route grade. I started doing from move 10, so I've been mainly doing ~22 moves. A first I was failing at move 15, but now have done it twice to the finish (there's a bit of a crux at 15, but it's reasonably steady overall).Today I started working from move 6 and failed again at the same point as I was before. (now move 19)However, if I start pushing towards the far end will I getting into AnPow territory rather than staying in AnCap? Should I continue doing it from move 10 but shorten rest times? (I'm currently fully resting between attempts)
I may have asked this before (and it's not a total hijack looking at the post above) but I'd also like to better understand just how to know which energy system is failing / the weak link. For instance I thought in the RRG I'd fall off with my arms feeling massively pumped etc. However, it seemed like I'd just come up short on a move (after repeating it for the 30th time), AnPow?*
I may have asked this before (and it's not a total hijack looking at the post above) but I'd also like to better understand just how to know which energy system is failing / the weak link. For instance I thought in the RRG I'd fall off with my arms feeling massively pumped etc. However, it seemed like I'd just come up short on a move (after repeating it for the 30th time), AnPow?**as I was a bit of a slacker I don't have many instances of this so I could have just punted things.
When you were starting at move 10 and failing at 15, then that's just bouldering! Might be worth making this move easier if you plan on doing reps of this circuit/section.
Fultonius - there are a myriad of session structures you could use to try to target an cap but I don't think any of them would involve resting fully between attempts... (Having said this, Tom may have one like that and come along and surprise me)
Me too... Tommmyyyy! RRG is pretty burly right? I wouldn't be surprised if you just got powered out, which I normally associate with AnCap or AnPow.
Back to my first question (which I think you answered) - I'm best not to try the full 33 move circuit but repping what I'm currently doing. (maybe making a move or two easier if I'm struggling on it, and maybe even shortening by a few moves.