UKBouldering.com

Minos (Read 2666 times)

Sidehaas

Offline
  • ***
  • stalker
  • Posts: 295
  • Karma: +12/-0
Minos
September 11, 2013, 08:55:43 pm
I'm keen to get on a 7c+ soon and always thought Minos looked great.  I understand the start is the crux.  can anyone tell me how hard it is roughly in Font terms, and whether it's worth going down for a visit with a pad before getting on a rope?  What's the move like/any crucial beta for an ambitious punter?  Thanks  :)

205Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1150
  • Karma: +126/-0
#1 Re: Minos
September 11, 2013, 09:28:05 pm
Unless you have a patient belayer who enjoys getting kicked in the head / knackers every time you fall off the crux it's probably worth taking a pad  ;)

The crux is almost certainly the start unless you're rubbish at slab moves. I'm pretty useless at grading but I thought the start was in the Font 7a+ / 7b area.

The beta is fairly straightforward. Start on the crimps and stand up with your left hand into the obvious undercut sidepull. Left foot goes on an obvious smear on the ramp and right foot goes into an egyptian on a polished edge to the right. Stab your right hand in the glued on blocky pinch and from there I built my feet and went over again with my right hand to a crimp at which point the holds get better. All depends on how much you like butch undercut moves with an outstretched left hand.

If you want my honest opinion I'd probably try something like Why Me first. If you don't get on well with that you probably won't get on well with Minos. There are certainly easier 7c+s at Cheedale that are of a similar quality (Toys for the Boys / Orange Sunshine).

abarro81

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4305
  • Karma: +345/-25
#2 Re: Minos
September 11, 2013, 09:34:45 pm
My guess would be 7A/+ ish from the floor to the rest where you join celebration

Sidehaas

Offline
  • ***
  • stalker
  • Posts: 295
  • Karma: +12/-0
#3 Re: Minos
September 11, 2013, 10:02:06 pm
Cheers guys!  Sounds like it will be hard but doable with some work.  It just inspires me more than those others Chris - I'll try to get down there with a pad at some point.  As for long moves off left undercuts, I spent last weekend doing that on Obscene Toilet so am in practice :)

205Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1150
  • Karma: +126/-0
#4 Re: Minos
September 11, 2013, 10:19:29 pm
Cheers guys!  Sounds like it will be hard but doable with some work.  It just inspires me more than those others Chris - I'll try to get down there with a pad at some point.  As for long moves off left undercuts, I spent last weekend doing that on Obscene Toilet so am in practice :)

Good work on Obscene - not trying to put you off but I'd say Minos has a substantially harder crux though.

If you're set on doing it might be worth trying Celebration first as they share the top 2/3rds and there's a baffling slab move at the top which ensures interest is maintained till the end but could easily spit you off on redpoint.

Sidehaas

Offline
  • ***
  • stalker
  • Posts: 295
  • Karma: +12/-0
#5 Re: Minos
September 12, 2013, 07:25:48 am
Yep, cheers Chris.  I figure if I have a go at the start with a mat then ill work out pretty quick if I think its not going to go, or if I think it will, then I can get that wired and do celebration or just pull through to work the upper bit.  Appreciate it should be harder than ot!  But at least off the ground its easy to work...

Johnny Brown

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 11442
  • Karma: +693/-22
#6 Re: Minos
September 12, 2013, 10:06:21 am
This was my first 7c+, probably my only one in fact. I think I did the start move three times - once to prove I could do it, then on two redpoint attempts. No idea how to grade it as its basically a strength move - I even did at bit of a scream. I don't remember any baffling slab move at the top, but I did drop my first redpoint on a tricky section moving left below a little roof at half height.

Basically have a play on the start to see if it possible, then forget about it until you wired the rest.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal