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No Mercy (Read 3265 times)

dave

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No Mercy
January 07, 2003, 02:18:22 pm
These are a couple of the photos of big TommyW in the peak from that german site.


Looking at this problem at the weekend (in the strictly visual sense you understand) i assumed it finished straight up the arete, but here unless I'm mistaken he's on the finishing holds of Autumn. Has anyone tried this problem, and if so how whats the score? there was some chalk on it on sunday so someone out there is trying. Also has it had a repeat? Cheers.

Bubba

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#1 No Mercy
January 07, 2003, 02:34:56 pm
Amazing bit of camera bullshit going down there, isn't there? It turns a vertical(ish) wall into a heinous o/hang - why?

Sure somebody on here or CT was talking about attempting it recently....might be worth a search. And yes, that does look like Autumn to me. I think he may have been confused that day which is why Brad's SitStart got 8a.....

dave

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#2 No Mercy
January 07, 2003, 02:42:46 pm
I don't get why they tilted the camera to make westworld look like a slab!

Facking craizy.

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#3 No Mercy
January 07, 2003, 02:50:55 pm
Perhaps this is the German approach to photography. I'm gonna go do that tasty looking slab, Action Directe...

dave

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#4 No Mercy
January 07, 2003, 02:58:19 pm
We all know what the german approach to photography is, and it ain't suitable for viewing at work thats for damn sure :wink:.

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#5 No Mercy
January 07, 2003, 03:03:51 pm
Theres a site somewhere that has some horrendous climbing soft-pr0n - I laughed me teets off - girls languishing about in brand new harnesses and nowt else. Completley un-sexy and ridiculous but probably gets some saddo onto the vinegar strokes somewhere.

dave

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#6 No Mercy
January 07, 2003, 03:27:37 pm
Theres summert like that on some foreign site that someone posted a pic of on here, with a distinctly russian looking komrade bearing her threpn'y bits. dead classy........NOT.

I was dissapointed to find my christmas stocking berift of the 2003 stonenudes calendar, alas. Oh well, its was a long shot, asking my bird to buy it for me and everything :lol: ........

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#7 No Mercy
January 07, 2003, 03:31:47 pm
Quote from: "dave"

I was dissapointed to find my christmas stocking berift of the 2003 stonenudes calendar, alas. Oh well, its was a long shot, asking my bird to buy it for me and everything :lol: ........


She missed a golden oppurtunity to have the last laugh there and get you the version full of naked blerks  :D

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#8 No Mercy
January 07, 2003, 04:14:29 pm
Yep, I've tried it. To be fair the way Willenburg is doing it is a fairly natural finish, although you could go more direct. The meat of the problem is the first move, the way I was trying it was LH on the arete (good hold! obviously), LF on a way shit smear, and spring off the ground to catch the pretty good tilted edge up and right. Cue massive barn-door! Almost caught it a couple of times, but to be honest that kind of thing isn't exactly my forte as I don't have much contact strength. A beast would probably find it OK. The move may go RF on aswell.

After that it looks OK, RF on arete, LF toehook, LH up then RH to the leftmost of the Autumn crimps. You could then slap for the top with your L (looks OK), but what Willenburg has done is done a move R onto the better crimps on Autumn and then finished. Much of a muchness really.

Really nice problem anyway, I might try it again; it'd be nice to have a go in cold weather, that's if it lasts 'til after the exams...

dave

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#9 No Mercy
January 07, 2003, 04:25:45 pm
I should have had a go really on sunday, but my skin was fucked. If i were you i would get there in the morning, cos by the time we got there (2:30ish) that whole wall was bathed in sunshine and red hot.

 

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