[Nibile]

I used to use the small rung of the BM.
Problems: it's quite rounded so I need to pull me in and under with the other hand not to slip off; I hang it more open handed.
I started using the incut rung. I can hold it half crimped with added weight.
Problem: it's bigger so I fear it won't work (I'm an idiot) when I'll pull on smaller holds.

Then, just to assess things: I can hang it with 3kg for left hand and with 6kg for right hand.
Is this normal or good over here? I literally have no idea.

Thanks.

[douglas]

How heavy are you?

[Nibile]

65kg.

[Sasquatch]

Pros of bigger rung:
True one arm, as the other is unconnected, so no possibility of cheating even a tiny bit.
Increased shoulder girdle strengthening
Added weight increases the overall forearm muscle strengthening

Cons:
Increased chances of injuring shoulder.
Bigger hold means more forearm muscle recruitment, and less tendon/pulley finger strengthening.

In my experience, training with added weight on bigger holds has crossed over to small holds very well, but that's n=1, and without a good comparison of the alternative.

As far as is it good or not....  I played with one arm hangs for a while this summer, and had to take off about 12-14kgs to hold the middle slot bottom row on the bm2k.

[Nibile]

Cheers.
Did the session using the incut rung. I also used it instead of the big rung to train back3.
We'll see.
Thank you.

[Nibile]

Incut rung = 14
Big rung = 5
Small rung = 10
I don't know how to refer to the holds on the right side of the board though. No numbers for those! 

[Nibile]

 

[a dense loner]

What's wrong with the mono for max hangs?

65kilos nibs? I think you need to take a lie detector test!

[douglas]

I wouldn't bother training on rung 5 at all it's too big. Pretty sure I hung that at 90kg body weight. The incut rung at half crimp with added weight sounds like the best option

[Nibile]

What's wrong with the mono for max hangs?

65kilos nibs? I think you need to take a lie detector test!

Nothing wrong with the mono, except that I can't! 

Really, I weigh 65! Does it seem too much or too little?

[a dense loner]

I weigh 76 nibs, I can't weigh 11kg more than you

[abarro81]

I don't know, you are a fat bastard, that's even more than I weigh. I can't hang anything on the bottom row 1 armed, but then I'm a weak route climber and the incut rung feels all weird to me - not comfy as crimp, half crimp or drag, least nice hold on the board IMO

[lagerstarfish]

I weigh 76 nibs, I can't weigh 11kg more than you

I think I can help clear this up.

With the imminent exit of Berlisconi from the upper house, the Italian kilo has increased significantly in value.

[Nibile]

I weigh 76 nibs, I can't weigh 11kg more than you

With the imminent exit of Berlisconi from the upper house,

Never take that for granted.

I swear I weigh 65. I'm hollow inside.

[Richie Crouch]

I found that hanging 14 really hurt the skin at the first joint and creased it up, so I have to let go due to the discomfort. Hold 11 feels like a pipe dream, so I resorted to 15 front 3 and this seems a good challenging stepping stone. All in open grip as I am a bad punter.

Did others use the same hold size progressions or add weight to 14 in order for 11 to feel ok?

[the_dom]

I hate hold 14 so I use a separate rung (approx. 2cm in depth) instead.

[Nibile]

Yes, 14 is not very comfy, but being slightly incut it's good to force myself in a half crimped position. Yesterday I also used it to train back3 half crimp (taking some weight off). With the half crimp skin pain is not an issue, but I can see how it can be with open hand.
I normally use 15 for front3 open hand, it's good, although friction dependant.
Good feelings yesterday, hung 14 with 6 kg lh and 8 kg rh.
I think my open handed strength is better than half crimped so that's why I want to train the latter. Also, half crimp engages my pinkies more. They are almost useless open handed, even on back2.

[Sasquatch]

I'm with Barrows, can't hang anything on the bottom 1 armed, and I don't even have the excuse of being a route climber.  Do have the excuse of weighing 77kg though.....

Hold 11 feels like a pipe dream

Do you mean 10, which is the sloped crimp, or 11, which is the mono?

[gme]

When people say hold them how long do they mean for. 1-2 secs (ie falling off slightly slower) or 7-8 secs.

[Sasquatch]

For me, I can't hang any of the bottom ones for even 1-2 seconds......

My usual method is to hang stright arm and try to lift my feet off the ground(no jumping of course).  That way there's no "slowly" falling.  You either get your feet off the ground or you don't.....

[Richie Crouch]

Do you mean 10, which is the sloped crimp, or 11, which is the mono?

Yes sorry... hold 10.

If I can finish off my project for the year, I am hoping to become the weakest person to ever climb font 8B. 

[Nibile]

On holds that I can't really hang, I start by doing little jumps as if I were one arming the hold, trying to control the descent. It's a very brief hang, repeated for a few times in a row. Eventually I get to hang the hold after some time.
As for max hangs, of course it depends on how max you want your hangs. 2 seconds is very max, 6 is max, 10 is not mqx anymore.

[the_dom]

For me, I can't hang any of the bottom ones for even 1-2 seconds......

My usual method is to hang stright arm and try to lift my feet off the ground(no jumping of course).  That way there's no "slowly" falling.  You either get your feet off the ground or you don't.....

I weigh 88kgs!

If it helps, I find that, instead of jumping, I pull up on my rung and the slopey BM 2 finger pocket and try to lock off for as long as possible. After a few sessions, I'm able to lock the hold and, after a few more, get some upward movement.

[joe dobson]

how are you guys holding the position arm wise? I've found that I can do a one armer on hold 5 but locking it out for a repeater session (6 sets of 7 secs on) bloody hard (I use a rope to take some weight off).

I tend to hold it slightly bent (so about 160/170 degrees) or are you guys doing it straight armed or even locked at 90 degrees?

[Nibile]

To me, the harder the hang, the more tension I have to generate.
So while I can deadhang good holds with a relaxed body and (almost) straight arm even with added weight, on smaller holds I want to pull as if doing a one armer, putting arm and shoulder under tension even if not bending the arm too much.
Completely straight arms and loose shoulders are a good way to injury.
I am quite sure that the isometric effort of heavy deadhanging proved very effective for one armers and general pulling power.