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First 9a for Australia (Read 11569 times)

JackAus

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First 9a for Australia
August 18, 2013, 08:52:17 am
Alex Megos has just done the FA of a long standing project in the Blue Mountains.

Bolted by Garth Miller (I think back in the late 90s), loads of people have thrown themselves at "The Red Project" at Diamond Falls.
Not sure on the name yet, hopefully not something shit like Das Pumphouse...

tomtom

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#1 First 9a for Australia
August 18, 2013, 12:11:25 pm
Pumpenhaus mate.. ;)

r-man

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#2 Re: First 9a for Australia
August 18, 2013, 12:26:18 pm
Wheel of Life is 9a though? First on a rope then.

JackAus

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#3 Re: First 9a for Australia
August 18, 2013, 01:16:05 pm
Pumpenhaus mate.. ;)
Thought it was obvious that I didn't need the  ::)

Wheel of Life is 9a though? First on a rope then.
9a+/V15... Yeah first route/on a rope.

r-man

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#4 Re: First 9a for Australia
August 18, 2013, 01:33:00 pm
If you want to do slash grades it should be V14/9a/V15/9a+   ;)

Or 9b if you have to battle a drop bear just after the crux.

JackAus

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#5 Re: First 9a for Australia
August 19, 2013, 06:42:07 am
And its now called "Retired Extremely Dangerous".

JackAus

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#7 First 9a for Australia
August 19, 2013, 07:19:53 am
Someone really needs to school that kid on problem naming.

remus

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#8 Re: First 9a for Australia
August 19, 2013, 09:05:43 am
Someone really needs to school that kid on problem naming.

Word.

Looks like a class line though.

SA Chris

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#9 Re: First 9a for Australia
August 19, 2013, 09:08:42 am
+ to the above. Beware, dropbear would be a better name.

Grubes

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#10 Re: First 9a for Australia
August 19, 2013, 09:15:56 am
I like the name geeky comic book(/film) reference and keeping with the project name.

SA Chris

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#11 Re: First 9a for Australia
August 19, 2013, 09:32:32 am
Aha, didn't get reference.

And great pics from our own control freak.

JackAus

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#12 Re: First 9a for Australia
August 19, 2013, 12:06:56 pm

Control freak

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#13 Re: First 9a for Australia
August 20, 2013, 03:39:03 am
Was pretty impressive to watch - I photographed him the weekend before also flashing an 8b and doing another route next to it first go, that takes in the same start but a different finish and weighs in at around 8b+\8c. He's by far the smoothest climber Ive ever seem and its really difficult to judge how hard the moves are as it all seems so effortless.

SA Chris

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#14 Re: First 9a for Australia
August 23, 2013, 02:55:03 pm
I heard you were elbowing Simon Carter in the face like a proper pap! :)

In other news https://www.facebook.com/#!/VerticalLifeMag?hc_location=stream

Quote
In a little bit of previously unreported news, Simon Carter has just told us that Alex Megos did a new link up in the Hollow Mountain Cave that is even harder than the Wheel of Life (which he though was 9a/35). The new link up is called Wheelchair (9a+/36)


The climbing gets harder, the names get shitter.

Doylo

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#15 Re: First 9a for Australia
August 23, 2013, 02:58:16 pm
He's a lot better at climbing than naming FAs  :lol:

r-man

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#16 Re: First 9a for Australia
August 23, 2013, 03:18:10 pm
I like how he gives things silly names. To the rest of us, they might seem like grand, epic lines deserving awesome inspirational titles, but he's ticking them off in a day or two - they clearly aren't monster projects for someone at his level. Cue daft names. Wait until he projects something for a month, then see what he comes up with...

...And I'll love it if its equally irreverant.

Doylo

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#17 Re: First 9a for Australia
August 23, 2013, 03:52:10 pm
Strange that Oz has only just entered the 9th grade given the rock there and the beasts that visit .Wales has had it for 17 years and its much smaller

JackAus

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#18 Re: First 9a for Australia
August 23, 2013, 03:55:47 pm
Strange that Oz has only just entered the 9th grade given the rock there and the beasts that visit .Wales has had it for 17 years and its much smaller

Have to remember that the climbing population is so much smaller here..... Definitely about time... Only got the first 8c+ in 2006... And there's only 4 of them now... (think its still 4)(and the first one is only half hour away)

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#19 Re: First 9a for Australia
August 23, 2013, 11:20:14 pm
What and where are the 4 8c+s, out of interest?  I'm kind of surprised Garth never got this done.  I used to sit on the boulder balcony at the St Peters wall in Sydney and watch him casually flash all the epic roof testpieces, spending more time shaking out than most people spent on the whole route.  I reckon we're going to see a lot more big numbers in Australia in the future.

JackAus

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#20 Re: First 9a for Australia
August 24, 2013, 12:09:37 am
White Ladder - Nowra 2004 (thought it was 06!)
Mr Pink - Blueys 2006
Too Hot To Handle - Blueys 2007
Sneaky Old Fox - Blueys 2009
Southern Delight - Gramps 2012 (Forgot Killian had done this)

JackAus

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#21 Re: First 9a for Australia
August 24, 2013, 01:06:19 am
I heard you were elbowing Simon Carter in the face like a proper pap! :)

In other news https://www.facebook.com/#!/VerticalLifeMag?hc_location=stream

Quote
In a little bit of previously unreported news, Simon Carter has just told us that Alex Megos did a new link up in the Hollow Mountain Cave that is even harder than the Wheel of Life (which he though was 9a/35). The new link up is called Wheelchair (9a+/36)


The climbing gets harder, the names get shitter.

Quote from: Ben Cossey
He told me that he did something starting at Sleepy Hollow (v11) into Stimulation (v11) via a snippet of Stuck South but climbed backwards. I'm pretty sure that'll be it!

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#22 Re: First 9a for Australia
August 24, 2013, 11:07:19 am
I'm surprised Garth Miller never did a 9a in Oz, he seemed plenty strong enough from his bouldering!

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#23 Re: First 9a for Australia
August 24, 2013, 04:15:47 pm
Strange that Oz has only just entered the 9th grade given the rock there and the beasts that visit .Wales has had it for 17 years and its much smaller

It's not confirmed that Wales has any 9's though is it.

Doylo

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#24 Re: First 9a for Australia
August 24, 2013, 08:36:46 pm
2 votes for 9a from Carson and Caff. How many more does it need? Also Ben Moon and Pete didn't seem to quibble

 

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