It's so bad that it resembles some of my old training plans.
I'm no expert, but it seems particularly badly thought. There's no idea of macro and microcicles, inadequate rest, etc. Plus, it revolvs around campusing and little more. It's so bad that it resembles some of my old training plans.
Quote from: Nibile on August 10, 2013, 07:22:33 pmI'm no expert, but it seems particularly badly thought. There's no idea of macro and microcicles, inadequate rest, etc. Plus, it revolvs around campusing and little more. It's so bad that it resembles some of my old training plans.I am not defending it, but the macro/microcycles are clearly there. 4 lots of 4 week micros with a 5th week for projecting is a macrocycle... Periodisd power, strength, endurance, power endurance etc.
Yes, I understand. But to me that's a simple timeline: there is no attention to intensity and volume variations. I admit that my opinion can be biased: I didn't like the plan from first glance. The initial question "I want to climb three grades harder within a year" is very silly and would need, in my opinion, a very very different answer from a professional, not just "do this". It's misleading. One year is a long period and it must be tailored according to the climber's needs and starting point. The guy could be bouldering 6a and could be barely able to campus 1-2, yet he's given heavy campusing routines for months on end. The whole thing seems to me just plain advertising. I really really don't like it. It's too simplistic. Of course it's an interesting read, and I don't mean to criticize SEDur in any way for posting it. Sorry for the rant.
I stopped reading when the author suggested front-levers as a good exercise for the core.
Quote from: jwi on August 11, 2013, 09:44:31 pmI stopped reading when the author suggested front-levers as a good exercise for the core.
I struggle to imagine how people that can effectively train their core to anywhere near exhaustion using front levers? How strong lats do you need to have before upper back and shoulder is not the weak link in the front lever?http://www.selfcoachedclimber.com/2012/09/front-levers-and-climbing/
For beginners this might be more useful:Beginner to 7a in 16 weeks
Quote from: jwi on August 12, 2013, 10:13:06 amI struggle to imagine how people that can effectively train their core to anywhere near exhaustion using front levers? How strong lats do you need to have before upper back and shoulder is not the weak link in the front lever?http://www.selfcoachedclimber.com/2012/09/front-levers-and-climbing/OK but it helps to have a strong back and shoulders and the front lever is occasionally useful on roofs
I can think of many exercises that are much more effective for developing a strong core.
Cheers jwi, I'm not sure what all of those are but will get googling!I would have thought a 1 legged squat would be similar to the front lever, the limiting factor is your quad not your core. I can do 4 squats and have a realtively poor core.
Quote from: galpinos on August 13, 2013, 12:33:08 pmCheers jwi, I'm not sure what all of those are but will get googling!I would have thought a 1 legged squat would be similar to the front lever, the limiting factor is your quad not your core. I can do 4 squats and have a realtively poor core.Yes - but unlike the FL 1 legged squats are a useful climbing exercise... I can't do one - and I really really struggle on high leg rockovers as a result.. Long levers excuse part II
Quote from: tomtom on August 13, 2013, 12:41:50 pmQuote from: galpinos on August 13, 2013, 12:33:08 pmCheers jwi, I'm not sure what all of those are but will get googling!I would have thought a 1 legged squat would be similar to the front lever, the limiting factor is your quad not your core. I can do 4 squats and have a realtively poor core.Yes - but unlike the FL 1 legged squats are a useful climbing exercise... I can't do one - and I really really struggle on high leg rockovers as a result.. Long levers excuse part II Hmm. Which part of high leg rockovers do you struggle with? For most people it's shifting bodyweight from down low to over the top of the foot. The actual standing up is rarely the hardest bit, probably why the move is called a rockover, not a standup!On a difficult rockover you have to pull hard with your toe, which seems to engage the bum, back of thigh and calf muscle more than anything. I think.
DeadliftsStiff leg DL (careful!)Good morningsSupermansLeg raiseSingle leg squatPush Sit-upBird dog (starting on toes)Lots of these can be made more unbalanced on a swiss ball