[Will Hunt]

I've got a fully stamped and signed off permission slip to go somewhere in Europe for a week's climbing. I'm currently thinking about Font (never been before), Chorro (been a couple of times before but it will be warm), or Verdon.

I've seen a couple of threads on here about Verdon but none really marketed at the out and out punter. On nicely bolted sport I can sometimes flash 7a (though I doubt the enduro kind at the moment!) and reckon I could happily cruise up 6c. I really like long, exposed sport routes (think Zeppelin/The Navigator in Chorro).

However, I have a jelly brain and if its going to start getting overly run out then I probably wouldn't stray higher than 6b. If its going to be full on trad, I can imagine in the very exposed gorge then I'd probably want it to be no more than HVS.

So is Verdon for me or shall I rule it out and go to Font/Chorro for some easy comfort?
Any tips on areas, guide, required gear would be much appreciated.

[SA Chris]

So you've got 2 options as far as I can see, both at opposite ends of the scale and both "must do" destinations for the all rounder. Sod El Chorro if you've been already.

Verdon has loads in a spread of grades, just look at the list on UKC. There's everything from single pitch to long routes (La Demande is 13? and the hardest is 6b+) and even some aid. It is an incredible place, and worth a visit for anyone. However there are some intimidating abseils and the occasional runout. If you really don't get on with the place there are dozens of other friendlier crags within an hour or so drive.

Then there's Font, which is amazing and a must do for every boulderer, I can't believe you've never been already. Prepare to have your mind blown.

[lagerstarfish]

one day in Font, 3 days in the Verdon, then decide if you want/need to stay there or have more time in Font (after a rest day)

[Oldmanmatt]

Verdon is full of low end sport, well bolted and seriously spectacular. Worth the trip just for "True six" (I can't recall the route name properly right now, but you ab in off the Corniche and it climbs a spectacular arête on good pockets, 6a (definitive)).

[Lopez]

Verdon is full of low end sport, well bolted and seriously spectacular. Worth the trip just for "True six" (I can't recall the route name properly right now, but you ab in off the Corniche and it climbs a spectacular arête on good pockets, 6a (definitive)).

Do you mean "Trous Secs"? 

[Oldmanmatt]

Tha's t' jobbie! Not got my French head on today...
One of those routes that stands out from my youth.
Not complicated.
Deliciously exposed.
Just felt good.

[Paul B]

If you've got a wishy brain then I wouldn't go to the Verdon personally, it'll be a stressful holiday (and who needs that? A question I've been asking myself a lot lately) and you won't get the most out of it or yourself.

Often the classic "easier" routes can be fairly stiff or a little "classic" in style (chimney / crack). Despite this there are many good routes and if you do decide to visit you could start on the steady stuff and see how you fair before progressing, often routes the guides use have a fair few more bolts than the others (and usually have the more friendly abs like the Dalle Grises).

Just don't go on Wide is Love or climb at the hulk then jump on something you'd imagine would be of the same grade, it'll be a unpleasant shock. I also think Demande is often underestimated by people expecting a low 6 sport climb.

It isn't worth coming simply for the single pitch climbing (IMO).

Don't buy the Rockfax guide. The local guide is far from perfect (lines shown different on multiple pages) but it is far more so (and you get a warm fuzzy feeling knowing that you've been forced into contributing to the bolting effort).

[Teaboy]

Won't this depend on the time of year? I'm not usually one to whine about conditions but I went to Font in June and it really was demoralising, Verdon is your only summer option.

If you're out to climb as hard as you can and improve your grade go to Chorro (in winter!) but as climbing experiences go I doubt there is anything to beat Verdon (I've never been to Yosemite or the Himalayas though). It's an amazing place, the rock is stellar, the swimming is great, the village is nice. It's obviously a bit of pain logistically as neither I nor anyone I know has climbed there for 15 years despite going euro cragging several times a year. There are bits that aren't too exposed as you ab down to tree covered terraces but avoid things like Reve de Fere, Frimes and Suvellier et Punir (actually don't avoid as they are ace). There's also a lots of climbing on the other side of the Gorge which may not be too exposed but I've never been so not sure. I do know it is shady though.

As others have said don't underestimate la Demande, I decided to whip up it one afternoon on a rest day. I spent a week recovering from the dehydration!

[Lopez]

Tha's t' jobbie!

A quality route indeed, and i only climbed it because there was a hot girl topping out on it and it made for a good chatting excuse 

From what i remember though, the route is 6c, with the hardest moves being a traverse on monos and tiny pockets with a great sequence on sidepulls and undercuts in either the 1st or 2nd pitch (can't remember which).

The top pitches must be the ones you remember at 6a/b. Excellent exposed climbing, with the size of the holds increasing with the steepness until you are hanging on jugs from the lip with 300 metres of nothing below you. One to do wearing Lycras and a bandana, and don't forget to chalk up while hanging one-handed 

[metal arms]

Verdon in the summer will be blisteringly hot on the rock if the sun's out.  When are you wanting to go?

I am also a bit of a wuss but I have done a few of the easy routes (logbook on UKC if you want to check 'em out).  If you cruise 6c on sport Verdon will be brilliant fun even if you only climb well within your comfort zone.  It is a really spectacular place.  The only advice I'd give is always use prussiks and knot the end of your ropes!  The worst fear I got was getting near the end of my lines with them trailing in the breeze and not being able to see the belay with only the rope wrapped round my leg to ease my sweaty hands.  Might have been this one...

I agree with Paul B about getting the Local topo if you do go.

[roddersm]

Hey will I'm a total punter and have been out there several times and its awsome.

There are loads of easy routes there but best thing is not to compare the grades to sport grades that you would climb elsewhere or indoors. I know of a very well known female 8a climber who backed of a 6c out there! Start well within your level and see how it goes.

Take loads of quickdraws and 2 50 metre half ropes as most routes are 40 meter plus.

There also are some good routes in the surrounding crags like le mirror du fou and you can always up sticks to Buoux, Ceuse or somewhere else if le Verdon doesn't float your boat.. Venasque is good if its really hot... 

Try and do as much research as you can up front and whatever you do don't ab down the wrong line!

[Paul B]

Verdon in the summer will be blisteringly hot on the rock if the sun's out.  When are you wanting to go?

I obviously missed this, don't go during the Summer! We were waiting until 3pm to ab in at the start of October. You'll simply get baked alive everywhere but the Duc and even that will get hot fast. Its mildly frustrating that as conditions start to get really good for the Gorge, La Palud begins to slowly shut down making it a fairly dull place when you're not climbing.

If you're dead set on going on holiday during the summer have you considered somewhere like Ablon instead? I haven't been myself but others I know have, its high, not far from Annecy etc.

...and as for Buoux, in the Summer?

[Jaspersharpe]

Buoux in the summer is fine for lower grade stuff (or higher grade stuff if you're an idiot).

Climb in the morning and the evening and you can still get loads done. Most of the 200+ 5 to 7C+ routes I've done there I did in the summer holidays.

Plus Mauvais Sang at 5am, but I'm an idiot.

[Oldmanmatt]

I've done Verdon in August.
But I kinda like the heat, so...

Always found a shady spot to play on at different times of the day.

As I recall we would climb morning and evening, with an afternoon siesta/swim in the bottom of he gorge (where shade could be found).

There were a lot of Viper sharing the pools with us though...

[Paul B]

Buoux in the summer is fine for lower grade stuff (or higher grade stuff if you're an idiot).

but why make your life difficult and limit your climbing opportunities by going 'out of season' (especially on a holiday rather than a prolonged break from the UK)?

It makes no sense when there are plenty of venues which would offer a lot more at the given time of year.

I recently went to Buoux in Oct and it ruled a lot of the climbing out (not only a few of the routes I was lusting after but similar for my other half who has very different requirements), even when the sun came off things in the evening, the rock was radiating heat until it was well past dark. So much so that I ended up smearing my face on a hold for purchase due to the sweat pouring off every inch of my body, desperate not to slip off backwards.

[Will Hunt]

Thanks for all the replies. I should have mentioned that this is for October so it should be a little cooler then.
Having read the above it sounds like it may be best to leave Verdon for another year and get to Font. Just got to try and find some people who are actually free and keen to go away at that time!

[Oldmanmatt]

Tent.

Car.

Weather forecast.

Nothing mentioned here is more than a days drive from any Ferryport, or a half day from each other!

[tomtom]

Plenty of fine bolt clipping in France to be had - Ardeche is a pleasant place to be (and you'll be outside of french hols season..)

[Jaspersharpe]

I recently went to Buoux in Oct and it ruled a lot of the climbing out (not only a few of the routes I was lusting after but similar for my other half who has very different requirements), even when the sun came off things in the evening, the rock was radiating heat until it was well past dark. So much so that I ended up smearing my face on a hold for purchase due to the sweat pouring off every inch of my body, desperate not to slip off backwards.

This sounds like bad luck. Only recall the odd day being that hot in the middle of summer!

[Jaspersharpe]

But having reread the thread, if you only have a week and it's October you're going and you've never been to Font...... just go there.

[SA Chris]

Yup, esp. if you are struggling for partners.