[csl]

Goals
Climb more UK 7c and 7c+
Trad - climb some trad! - Done
Run again - done, sort of!

Mon- nothing
Tue-nothing
Wed- Run 11.5km
Thu- Drove to Wales, climbed Ivy Sepulchre and Left Wall - Felt totally fucked from running the night before!
Fri- Cloggy - Great Wall first thing, then meant to do Pinnacle Arete Hand Traverse Connection but couldn't find the start without a guide. Walked down and went to pac man boulders, my feet/legs hurt so much i couldn't bring myself to try anything!
Sat- Should have been doing snowdon race but sacked it off due to heat, lack of training and tired limbs from the last 2 days. Went to the Cromlech Boulders and onsighted Bog Traverse, V4. Was then too knackered for anything else!
Sun- nothing!

Was a bit worried about essentially doing my first trad of the year after 3 weeks of no climbing. Left Wall was fine apart from serious leg pump and painful toes! Seconding the gates afterwards saw me climbing like a bit of a freak in order to avoid my legs cramping up!
Great Wall was awesome! I led the first pitch, felt ok! But once again the leg pump and painful toes made it harder than it should have been. Second pitch felt pretty ok on second, would have been slightly scarier to lead tho. Shame we couldn't find the bottom of the next route but i was happy to head down for a Georgio's Ice Cream!
Just wish I had either trained for the Snowdon Race and actually done it, or had not bothered running on wednesday evening because i think that was probably to blame for my legs feeling buggered for all the climbing.

Need to get out a bit more regularly from now on.

[nai]

vstg - Bowderstone holiday crushage
Autumn goals - E4 & 8a

M - AM, garage bouldering but only lasted an hour before being enticed away to go MTBing, 14km.
      Eve - garage 10 easy problems, repeated five times, five minutes rest. Absolutely Smashed it

T - 20 x 20 moves, 1 min on, 25s off. Skipped a set after 10 so extended rest. Hard work
      1km+ swim

W -  tried fingerboarding for first time in six months, hard. 6x10s hangs

T - Chee Tor trad mostly, tried a sport route to but wasn't really the weather for it

F -  AM - 18km MTB ride
      Eve - garage bouldering, felt good, a long term project went down, made up a few that felt as unlikely as that one did six weeks ago, see how long they take....

S - much needed rest after seven days on

S - fingerboard, better - could hold the 45s and low slots today but much cooler so maybe that's why it felt easier...? 2 x 5 minute Core sets

Decent week, good improvements following a light week.
EDIT: Short week this week, gonna try and get six sessions in the next four days then it's two weeks family holiday which will be somewhat less intense, quite excited at the prospect of going to the Bowderstone though, must be 20+ years since I was there and I was only climbing HVS at the time so it was pretty useless.

[kelvin]

Forget the rest - good work on the ice cream CSL 

Mon - Tremadog. Onsighted One Step in the Clouds and Merlin Direct.
Tue - Tryfan Bach. Fell a move or two from the top of some dirty, manky 9m VS crack that reminded me of being in the Peak. Second ever leader fall on trad.

Nowt the rest of the week as been busy working late. In fact work is taking over. Ah well.

Pleased with the fall. Missed a foothold and knew it was 50/50 if I made it, gutted but it wasn't a route that matters anyway.

Tremadog was a good day. Merlin Direct was quality, as was the 4c pith on One Step. Soloed about on Tryfan Bach in my guide tennies. First time back there since my first ever trad lead and it was nice to be in the shade. Hopefully the Cromlech next weekend.

[webbo]

Mon. Board, continued working through list of problems in order. Did another 10 after warming up.
Tue. Bike out for 40 mins 20 secson 40 secs off x 5 2 sets.
Wed. Board easy version of 16 mirror problems very hot.
Thu. Nothing.
Fri. Nothing.
Sat. Big G sportive 100miles 2,600 metres of climbing riding time 6 hrs 6 mins 5400 calories used. very hot and humid. Due to having a compact chainset didn't have walk any hills, although I was amazed how slow its possible to go with out toppling over.
Sun. A bit sore. I seem to have taken a layer of skin of my groin. P.M. board 30 problems climbing quite well and even seem to have reasonable body tension even though my core feels like its left home.

[shark]

11.3-7

M.
T.  AM. Fingerboard, weights, assisted one armers.  Hard to get going. Disappointing scores on the weighted deadhangs - hopefully just conditions
W.
T. AM Tor. 7am start. Rock immediately felt slippery. Two goes on AM on TR but hard work. Tried Obscene Toilet on TR after but too tired to get up easy initial flake. Finished by 10am
F.
S. Drove to Swanage. Walked to Conner Cove with family including mutinous daughter. Team there. Did the Conger but would have been terrified trying Freeborn Man without doing some jumping practice first so left it at that.
S.

Frustrating week. Reckon Anger Management would have been game on with decent conditions. Lost motivation to diet and weight has come back on quickly. Down South for rest of week with family. Lined up a day at Cheddar on Tuesday. Still feel a bit chesty so reluctant to start running again until it clears up.

[T_B]

STG - To be fit enough to do some DWS in August
LTG - lose 3Kg (from 88 - 85Kg) and get in bouldering shape for trips to N'umberland in September and Font in October

85.5Kg (have dropped 2.5Kg in 6wks) 

M - campussing. 1-4-6 on both arms on small rungs. Deadhanging.
T - quick sess at the Tor after putting kids to bed. Powerband, then Staminaband from after crux to final pocket move of P/band. Trying Strict Blue Band (nails)
W - rest
T - First crap sess in 6 weeks, maybe due to heat? Started off on circuit board but kept slipping off then tired quickly trying wave problems.
F - campussing. Could barely manage 1-4-6. No pull. The heat? But then felt quite good on fingerboard. Lots of different grip types.
S - chasing after 2 yr old at Folk Festival in Endcliffe Park. Knackered.
S - Anston Stones. Very condensed, not much dry. Got stuck into Dark Art (8a?) and did all moves and linked to slap round lip for pocket. Psyched to get back on it when the starting holds are dry!

Didn't do any PE or stamina this wk, which doesn't bode well for getting pumped DWS. Just seemed too hot in the Foundry at lunch time. But quite a hard week, with two short but intensive bouldering sessions outside and two campus board/finger board sessions.

[duncan]

STG: DON’T GET INJURED. Continue to rehab. wrist and shoulder.
MTG: Big route in Italy/Switzerland this August (now a STG?). Lose 1kg. Don’t get injured.
LTG: LH&F routes in Alps and USA.


M -
T - Shoulder and wrist exercises.
W - Arch bouldering. ‘warm-up’ V0-1 problems x 20.
T - Short flat run. Shoulder and wrist exercises.
F -
S - Mowingword - moderate trad. including attempt on Alcoholics Anonymous, a recent E3 squeezed in next to Logos. Climbed the line but resorted to a side-runner in Logos as it was 1m away at one point. The bottom 2/3 has good independent climbing, combining this with the top section of Logos would make a good E2 worth a star or two. This needs a suitably Perrinesque name combining Alcohol and Logos. Can anyone improve on In Vino Veritas?
S - Stennis Head - more moderate trad.


Review: wrist and shoulder are slowly improving. Work issues distracted from training and, unusually, climbing this week. Pembroke was glorious, if a little hotter than ideal. We should have been up on Cloggy of course but the shorter drive and simpler logistics suited everyone <insert some nonsense about training specificity for Dolomites>. It was a bit frustrating to not get into The Leap or try anything harder but, on reflection, sensible not to go mad at this point of recovery.

71.5kg, 2.5kg down in 6 weeks, which is pleasing. No special tactics, just cutting down on the snacking. The next 1-1.5kg will be harder.

Plan: Stupidly busy week - host visiting Vikings, attend 5 Wagner operas, negotiate Wagnerian work issues, write grant application, remind offspring of my existence before disappearing again. Theoretically I could grab some climbing on Wednesday or Thursday but probably wiser to conserve energy. It’s times like this when I really miss living close to real rock. Off to Italy next Monday.

[fried]

Not much this week.

I only managed a session indoors, stinking hot, but had a surprisingly good session on burlier stuff. err, that's it.

I was supposed to go to the forest at the weekend, but it was far too hot too even think about getting in the car. Plus I'll be there for 3 weeks starting next Friday (when the hot weather ends and the storms begin).

Did manage to get down to 74.7kg by not having any appetite this weekend.

[Stubbs]

Sat. Big G sportive 100miles 2,600 metres of climbing riding time 6 hrs 6 mins 5400 calories used.

Good time that, especially in this weather!

[cheque]

M- Rest.
T- Car broke down on the way to go climbing.  Came up with new home training method- "campusing" between the holds on my on my beastmaker and periodic bits of doorframe with feet on medicine ball. Falls like quite specific route training (well, as specific as it's going to get in my living room), but kept slipping off 'cos it was so sweaty.
W- More of the above.
T-  Car fixed so Masson Lees hanging draws for beginner mate. 6 pitches but most were chossy 4s/5s. Got a 6b in when it cooled down but not really a training day.
F- Rest.
S- Walking round London.
S- Swimming- 20 or so lengths then 6 mile walk in Chilterns.

Proper fighting weight on Friday which bodes well for Pembroke this weekend. 

[krymson]

10,000 hours the theme this week was maximizing climbing time.

After a bouldering session where i realized if i just came again the next day instead of once a week i could send my projects(basically by only coming to this gym once a week i was forgetting a lot and having to relearn things each time), as well as reading Malcolm Gladwell's Outliers, where he suggests that 10,000 hours is required to get really good at anything, i tried to maximize my climbing time last week to mostly good but  slightly mixed results.

Monday morning - climbed on an overhanging lead wall, did OK but movements weren't compltely smooth and found endurance lacking.
Monday afternoon - route climbing on a vertical, balancy wall. This is my weakness and I learned a lot.
Tuesday - ARC training - stayed on a bouldeirng wall for abt 30 minutes.
Wednesday - Vertical route climbing. I usually flounder a bit, but this week since I had just done vertical climbing monday I did well - climbed smoothly with flow, had a good sense of balance, and improved my ability to read and plan out routes from the ground.
Thursday - Bouldering wall. conversely found that climbing routes all week meant i forgot how to climb hard. while a nice session, did not make progress on any projects here.
Friday - Same overhanging lead wall again - this time even though i was tired, performance was significantly better both because i was trying the same routes, and because movement was much smoother than on Monday.

My general findings this week(~12-14 hrs of climbing) are that microcycles of focusing on routes or bouldering are quite good, but mixing things up can have ... mixed results. My bouldering session this week was not as productive  as usual, whereas my route sessions were more productive than usual.

also, closely packing climbing sessions together can have great results even accounting for fatigue because the previous sesions give a kind of "warm up" effect so you dont have to re learn how to climb each session. They allow for generally more learning than even the same amount of sessions spaced out further.

The problem i found with packing this many sessions togheter is the potential for injury. THis week becaues of switching to a softer shoe and climbing much more vertical than usual, i put too much pressure on my left toe and it was a bit strained for two days. I also aggraveted my left middle finger pulley.

[Dolly]

Mainly worked all bloddy week in a sauna that apparently doubles as an office.
M
T 20 minute run before work
W Finished work at 6 and had a couple of sweaty hours at Clarach bay -  nice place  for a short sess if you're in Aber. Extremely hot , climbed in undies
T
F
S Mynydd Dinas. Lovely place, beautiful views. Almost grit like rock. Obvioulsy very hot. Started to look for probs in Boulder Britain, but then just walked around climbing nice looking bits of rock and enjoyed myself
S work
Another week of working like a dog with not much exercise. Hopefully over the hump and will start more training/running/climbing again

[webbo]

Sat. Big G sportive 100miles 2,600 metres of climbing riding time 6 hrs 6 mins 5400 calories used.

Good time that, especially in this weather!

I was hoping to be under 6 hours. I reckon with my 2 stops I probably just missed out on a gold medal ( under 6hrs 15 mins )

[Duma]

S/MTG - keep niggles in check, run regularly, get out more. If I do any hard stuff that'll be nice too.
LTG - 8A, 68kg

M - TCA eve. Another black at 7B ish - pleased to get this before tom as it's pretty campussy and he'd normally wipe the floor with me on that sort of thing. Got one of the whites at about 7A+ - took longer than it should. Then worked harder things - managed crux move of one of the harder blacks but no link, and did a good link of all but one of the hard moves on a 7C+ ish thing on the mothership. Watched people dyno past the finishing moves of the black I set last week - bastards.
T - Run in stupid heat - 6m 52min - must. go. earlier. Pub in eve for dinner
W -
T -
F - Setting oranges (5 - 6A+) at TCA in morning, then work in eve.
S - Up early to drive to Gower: AM - Routes at shipwreck cove on Rhossili Beach:
Managed to flash King George vs the Suffragettes, and got Wrecking Ball second go. Good to do some routes again. PM - swim, jump off rocks, drink, swim, etc.
S - up late, trekked out to crag, spent day swimming and sunbathing instead. Good weekend.

Scraping along under 70kg.

[Eddies]

Last week I replaced my Moonboard with a Beastmaker 2000


Monday: Room Routine (3 sets of: 30x pushups, 10x pullups, 10x18kg bicep curls on each arm. 3min rests between sets)

Tuesday: Rubicon & Crag-X (V-Hot = Hard Work)

Wednesday: REST - Installed the beastmaker

Thursday: F-Board Session - Repeaters (3 sets of 6reps @ 7secs on/3secs off using 5 different grips and finishing each set with 3-reps of assisted one-armer 90deg max hangs for each arm using the 20mm edge - 2.5min rests between reps, 5 min rests between sets)

Friday: REST

Saturday: Conie Stone - First visit, great lil spot with nice lil problems in the low 7's

Sunday: REST

[Luke Owens]

Monday - World's End - Warmed up trying to on-sight an E2 5c, I never trad climb but I enjoyed the route. Fell off throwing for the wrong part of the top of the crag! Got it 2nd go with ease. Worked the moves on Cigars of the Pharaohs (7b) fell off after the crux on redpoint then felt massively powered out!

Tuesday - Deadhands, Front 3, 20's 35's sloper combo, 4 finger half crimp, middle 2, back 3 & front 2.

Personal bests time wise on ALL the dead hangs did 2 sets of all the above.

Wednesday - Back to World's End - Did Cigars of the Pharaohs (7b) first go with no warm up and didn't even get a little bit pumped. (Felt Easy?!) Weird feeling, lowering off felt like I hadn't climbed anything!
Here's a video of the route:

Thursday - Rest/Packing

Friday - Rest/Stretching/Holiday

Saturday - Rest/Stretching/Holiday

Sunday - Craig Y Llyn Bouldering - Did Voie Normale Stand(6B+/V4)in a few goes after even being anywhere near pulling on a few months ago. Really steep on positive holds. My anti-style and I'm psyched for it to feel easier now! Also came close to adding the powerful sit start which is a hard 7A/V6. Ended the session with a cool 6B/V4 tick of the arete problem there. Good session!