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Unleashing @ the cornice (Read 1660 times)

205Chris

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Unleashing @ the cornice
July 18, 2013, 05:50:44 pm
Anyone got the numbers on this? My current sequence which doesn't seem all that easy is:

Bundle up to the twin undercuts. Right hand into the next blocky undercut, build feet, left hand intermediate sidepull and left hand again to the flat crimp. Right foot on the polished ledge, left foot goes onto a small polished edge out left.

Right hand gets the sharp pinchy hold as a sidepull, build feet and go lefthand into the big undercut.

Even the next bit moving rightwards to the next big undercut felt hard.

Any beta gratefully received as it currently feels a lot harder than other techy wall climbs like Toys for the Boys etc.


Nigel

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#1 Re: Unleashing @ the cornice
July 18, 2013, 06:19:51 pm
Crux beta you have is normal, from tiny ear RH I went up with my left to the crimp, then rocked up into big undercut. Saves quite a few faffy moves out left then back right so worth a go.

205Chris

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#2 Re: Unleashing @ the cornice
July 18, 2013, 06:44:26 pm
Thanks, sounds like I just need to try harder at the crux then. Will have a look at going straight to the crimp.

 

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