[Bobtheboulderer]

Hi guys! This is my first post.

I'm a 20 year old male, and I've been bouldering for 4 months now. I've seen massive progress the first three months, but lately I haven't really had any breakthroughs yet. I don't have a training plan yet, but because I feel that I'm plateauring, I'd like to train.

When I started I could barely climb a 3 on fontainebleau grading. I now climb 5a-5c (V1, 5.8/5.10?). I've been stuck at this grade for about a month now, I see my progress is not linear. I climb every other day, 3.5 days a week.

I'm really enthusiastic about it and want to become a really great boulderer.

Do you have any tips for a training plan? I saw your resources list but had difficulty finding a great website with a clear plan.

I bet you get this question a lot, so I will apologize in advance. Any tips will be greatly appreciated,

Cheers from Holland!   

[Sasquatch]

First of all, there is no fixed training plan like you would find for a "from couch to 5k" running plan.

In my opinion, your first step should be to figure out what you're currently doing.  How much volume/effort are you actually doing?  Every other day is great, but that could be 30min or 3 hrs.  It could be 30-40 moves or 300-400 moves.  Huge differences.  One of the most important thing for most new climbers to do is get enough "easy" volume under your belt. 

Once you've figured that out and have started getting enough volume, then you will need to identify weaknesses, and work on making them strengths.  Things to look for would be your footwork, balance, hold types, wall angles, etc. 

Good Luck!

[SA Chris]

And don't fixate on grades. Yet.

[psychomansam]

from Holland? Have you been outside yet?

Here's my training plan for you:
Keep going climbing.
Focus on technique.
Get some cheap coaching on movement technique if it's convenient (maybe your local wall does some).
Focus on footwork (silent feet, silent feet).
Go to Fontainebleau.

Do some press-up and dips.
How flexible are you? How strong is your core? You could do things to help with that, i.e. some basic, ideally dynamic, core training, perhaps some yoga.

Do you have a permanent live-in physiotherapist? That's the only way we're likely to recommend you do strength training at this point.

If you ignore this advice you'll probably be injured within a couple of months. All the best*

 

*If you're extremely light, athletic, have been doing a sport for years which mean you have bombproof shoulders, a strong, mobile, injury-free back, powerful all-round core, and happen to have naturally metal-like fingers, feel free to ignore this advice. Although, no promises.

[cheque]

I've been stuck at this grade for about a month now

 

Just keep climbing and enjoy it. If you try hard you'll get better. As Sam says, you wanna go rock climbing as soon as possible- it's many magnitudes more satifsying and really quite different. Plus the longer you leave it the worse the inevitable spanking will feel.

Plenty of time to worry about grade plateaus and training plans further down the line.

[Ti_pin_man]

 

I was in a simailar position earlier this year.  I basically asked the same question and got the same answers:

ignore grades
work on your footwork
just keep climbing

I wasnt happy about the answers I wanted progress!   

you will likely want the same or why else would you post up the question.

So now 10 months of regular climbing my grades have picked up.  How?

I did the above   

There's a lot of truth in the advice BUT the other thing I did was had a coaching session one to one with a good coach, it was a 3 hour session at a wall.  The most useful thing about it was that he could see me climb and told me where I was weak and then gave me some training on how to improve these weaknesses and S L O W L Y they are improving.

The biggest thing I've learned is that getting better just takes time.  There's no magic wand. Like Sasquatch said there's no training plan that will guarentee you getting to 8a from 3+... it just takes time and practice.

The best advice I think is to keep doing it, keep practicing it, keep enjoying it.  Lower your expectations. 

 

[Bobtheboulderer]

Thx for all the tips! It is greatly appreciated. my strength is ok, but my finger strength is really weak. I am planning to go to Fontainebleau this summer(my gym will be closed then and I just can't imagine quitting even if its for 3 weeks).

I have been trying to hang on to the rungs and go up. I can almost do it, but it's slightly too difficult.

I don't weigh much (71 kg) and I'm tall (190 centimeters 6ft2/3). I can do 10-15 pull ups now (when I started I could do 1-2).

My footwork and technique is definitely off. I tend to ignore the footwork sometimes so I can finish the problem faster. My climbing style is really impatient, and not very controlled.

My local bouldergym will give an advanced course after the summer. 

I try to climb really hard and intense. I always try problems that are too difficult. After I'm done with the workout (I work out for 1 to 1.5 hours) I'm usually shaking, and can barely hold a glass. Is that good or am I overdoing it?

Should I buy a gripmaster or a powerball?   

[SA Chris]

I have been trying to hang on to the rungs and go up. I can almost do it, but it's slightly too difficult.

IMy footwork and technique is definitely off. I tend to ignore the footwork sometimes so I can finish the problem faster. My climbing style is really impatient, and not very controlled.

I try to climb really hard and intense. I always try problems that are too difficult. After I'm done with the workout (I work out for 1 to 1.5 hours) I'm usually shaking, and can barely hold a glass. Is that good or am I overdoing it?

Sounds like you are trying too much too soon. Finger strength takes a long time to develop; overdoing it might get you stronger, but will most likely get you a serious finger injury. And at this stage you shouldn't be contemplating hanging on rungs or any kind of campus boarding.

Read what Ti Pin man (and others) said above, and pay attention to it! If enough peopel repeat it will you listen??

Learn to climb well and develop good technique; do not get into the habit of snatch and grab unless you have to

Do not continually fail by trying problems too hard for you; do volume of easier stuff with good footwork and in control.

If you do the above you will develop finger strength over time and probably realise that your fingers aren't that weak it's just pisspoor technique and footwork wihch has been overloading your fingers.

Gripmaster and powerballs are nice toys, but no substitute for learning to climb well.


 

[Durbs]

Beaten to it - no need for campusing at all, you'll just damage your fingers!

If you're super keen, get a finger-board and do some work on the way.

If you find you rush your climbing, force yourself not to. There are lots of exercises you can do; try climbing with "silent feet", or instead of grabbing a hold, hover over it and slowly count to 5 before holding it.

[a dense loner]

I'm glad dave graham never listened to you lot. Hover over a hold? Am I going insane?
Do loads of climbing n training don't buy any toys unless it's a fingerboard, n climb like a possessed moron the whole time you're in font

[heelhookofglory]

I've been stuck at this grade for about a month 3 years now

Me, too. Have fun!