[csl]

Goals
Climb more UK 7c and 7c+
Trad - climb some trad!
Run again

Mon - rest
Tue - Kilnsey - RP the only warm up i'd never led clean. Open Road 6c. Tried dominatrix again, 2 goes getting sequence sorted. 3rd time up meant to be a RP but felt mothered, just bolt to bolt to get clips out. Then did Smooth Torquer, i'd tried it pre Ceuse trip so nice for it to feel like a path.
Wed - Leeds Wall - strangely excited to be back at a good indoor wall. O/Sed 2 7a's on main wall and fell at 2nd last clip of a 7b+ and 7a+.
Thu - Kilnsey - Hungover! Back on Dominatrix, messed up a RP when i hadn't worked out a clipping position, it turns out you can't skip the clip in the groove... Still did it in 2 halves minus the top crux so not too bad. Felt worked again by 2nd RP so just stripped it. Somehow managed to Flash WYSIWYG afterwards despite feeling wasted which I'm pretty psyched about, nice that lots of people call it 7b+ but I'm pretty sure its just 7b.
Fri - Board session - felt wasted, but fun!
Sat - Nothing
Sun - Nothing

Good week in Yorkshire! Feeling totally burnt out from a long trip, and finger injury has returned almost immediately after touching UK lime so gonna have a week off climbing before returning to Dominatrix, should go down next session! Then need to get out on some trad and get back on New Dawn or try Biological Need.

[fried]

Incredible, I was just cutting and pasting the Power club date and was trying to work out why it had automatically updated itself.

Monday - Push ups, Pull ups.
Tuesday - Indoor, stinking hot and humid, do a lot of steeper stuf  on bigger holds.
Wednesday - Indoor, Very quickly get nasty aches in my right shoulder and elbow, take a lot of breaks but just do some easy stuff. Still hot and humid.
Thursday - Saturday - Rest my aching body.
Sunday - Still a bit sore but risk a session and it turns out O.K. nothing exciting to report but it was cooler and I did a lot of stuff and add moves to stuff I'm working on, finish with a full easy circuit.

Skipped the BM this week.

[tomtom]

No climbing this week work, TomFlu and a stag weekend in Chamonix have taken their toll on both body and climbing

[nai]

goals E4 this summer, 8a in Autumn, 7C over winter

All been about the board this week:

M - Aerocap (?) session - 4x4 reps of 1:20 on, 50s off. 30 juggy moves. 10 mins rest. Got messy last two sets, kept failing, brief rest then get back on to finish. 480 moves total

T - 10 problems (5-6a ish) back to back (71 moves total), rest 10 minutes. Repeat x 4. Bit experimental, problems a bit undefined.  900m swim

W - set & adjusted a few problems, barely any climbing.

Th - 10 problems (nominally graded 4x 5/+, 6x 6a/+) back to back (74 moves total, takes 5-6mins). Rest 10 minutes. Repeat x 5.  8.7km run

F - Ancap (?) 4x3 reps 1 min on, 2 mins off, 22 moves. Failed last few reps as fingers were uncurling rather than my forearms being pumped.  Is this being powered out?  Have I got the intensity wrong and am actually bouldering?

S-  Aerocap (?) - 4x4 reps of 1:20 on. 40s off, 30-35 juggy moves on 42 degree board. 8 mins rest.  Completed but only just.  Just over 500 moves, proper deep pump on, forearms were wrecked all day.

S - planned to run or ride but had to rest

Decent week although weather scuppered plans for getting out Thursday unfortunately.  Making good use of the board but not sure I'm getting the intensity right, suspect my Aerocap is more Ancap and my Ancap is more AnPow or bouldering 

[shark]

11.4-7

M. High Tor. Weather looked grizzly but turned out OK. Played around on an ab rope on enivisaged route. Not much cleaning required. Shunted the moves on a gri gri then led first go with dreadful rope drag on initial bulge followed by a runout wall above - all very emotional.
T.
W. High Tor again. Muggy and very greasy. Backed off the 6c+ warm up. Followed M1. Had a top rope on the Roadrunner crux - felt as desperate as I rememebered. Partner suffering from hay fever. Glad to finish early
T.
F. Late Eve. Weighted deadhangs
S.
S. Tor am. Bouldered. Getting close on Rattle and Hump. Finally got a sequence that seems to work. Busted after 90mins. Eve. assisted one armers

Over the moon to bag  another quality new route. Booked to go back to High Tor on tuesday with Stacked Sam with a view to straightening out my other one. Will try to be brave.

[cheque]

M-W- Rest/ nothing
T- Edge. 10 pitches up to 6c+, but with a fair bit of dogging. Played on layback flake in bouldering room afterwards- using the decent features for feet I can go up and down it no problem, eliminating them I can't string more than a handful of moves together. Hopefully doing more of this will help the poor laybacking performance I was moaning about on here.
F- Rest. Forearm DOMS sets in exactly 24 hours after I'd stopped climbing the day before.
S- Walking round London.
S- Walking round Chilterns. Beastmaker repeaters.

This week I got an amazing new computer and I stayed up late fiddling with it like a feeble geek every day until Thursday. Closest I got to rock was the minerals room in the Natural History Museum!

Indoor climbing for the first time in 7 weeks felt very alien and the sweatiness reminded me why I hadn't don it for so long. Nice to do the sustained, decent rest-free pulling and mileage that it facilitates though. Apart from grit soloing I don't think I've ever done so many pitches in a day before!

Decent forecast for this week I see so hopefully I'll get on my 7a project.   

[Wood FT]

Booked to go back to High Tor on tuesday with Stacked Sam with a view to straightening out my. Will try to be brave.

go for it!

[kelvin]

Nice work Shark! Seems you're on a decent roll 

Left notebook in the van so it's about this...

Mon - Routes on TRope. 2nd 6a on steepening comp wall.f4 1 set of 4, f5 did two sets of 4, f5 x 2, 6a x 1, 6a+ x 1, 6b fail. Elbow sore.
Tue - Saw Physio about hip issues.
Wed - Worked late
Thu - Routes. Led a f5 twice, no rest. TR a 6a+ (bloody ace route). Tried an horrific 6b! Tried leading the steepening 6a on the comp wall. 2 rests at the top, just not got enough power. Sore elbow, so stopped.
Fri - New set in boulder room. Did all the V0s except one and then played add-a-hold. Good laugh but then Tara Hayes joined in and whupped our asses! Climbing should be fun tho, really enjoyed just larking about and trying really hard.
Sat - Worked, then drank lager.
Sun - Moved daughters stuff from Uni back here.

The physio - got a diagnosis of the hip issue. My right arse cheek is wasting away! Withering somewhat and causing an imbalance. So got a set of exercises to do but it's no wonder my climbing's been getting nowhere lately as I just have no strength for certain movements. Started doing some eccentric stuff for the elbow on Saturday, being a decorator doesn't help mind you but I'm optimistic.

Climbing - Enjoyed this week, just had some fun rather than trained. The 6a+ is a beaut of a route. Holds I don't like, nice movement and I feel like I'm about to fall off on every move from 4m up! Wanna lead this one for sure. In fact, I reckon Thursday was the first time I've led indoors this year 

[Duma]

S/MTG - keep niggles in check, run regularly, get out more. If I do any hard stuff that'll be nice too.
LTG - 8A, 68kg

M - Sailing - lots of pulling stuff so prob some training benefit
T -
W -
T - Wall with daughter, no climbing for me, but note they've reset the mothership, keen for tomo
F - Wall, session on new mothership set. Dropped the last move of three problems repeatedly, but managed to finish one off eventually. Lots to go back for, think this is a good set. couple of beers.
S - lots of beer.
S - lots of food.
70kg.

[Eddies]

Monday: Room Routine (3 sets of: 30x pushups, 10x pullups, 10x18kg bicep curls on each arm. 3min rests between sets)
Tuesday: Cheedale – Warmed up and worked a 7a+ route ‘No Hiding Plaice’. Bad finger felt OK
Wednesday: REST
Thursday: Room Routine (3 sets of: 30x pushups, 10x pullups, 10x18kg bicep curls on each arm. 3min rests between sets)
Friday: REST
Saturday: REST
Sunday: Fingerboard – Repeaters – 5 sets of 10 hangs @ 7secs on 3 secs off – Middle rung, half crimp

Finger feels alot better so eased it back into some training yesterday

[AJM]

W. High Tor again. Muggy and very greasy. Backed off the 6c+ warm up. Followed M1. Had a top rope on the Roadrunner crux - felt as desperate as I rememebered. Partner suffering from hay fever. Glad to finish early

Having seen you'd been out and about new routing there, I did wonder whether when I heard someone calling their partner Simon on Wednesday if it might be you. I think you guys were probably abbing from the top as I was seconding the top of Robert Brown.

You probably heard the sneezing though - I was suffering so badly from the pollen by the end of the day!

[tommytwotone]

STG: "Dirty Dozen" from Yorkshire Grit guide up to and inc. E1
LTG: Font 7b

M: Nowt
T: Gym on lunch inc. Eddies' "Room Workout" in amongst a load of kettlebell and core stuff
W: Brimham after work - did 4 of the Dirty Dozen (Crackeroo, Top Dead Centre, Roadside Crack and Harry's Crack
T: Nowt
F: Gym session on lunch, same as Tues
S: Nowt, out for a few beers in the evening
S: Met Grubes for a Depot session in the afternoon

[T_B]

Back good all week really (bit sore on Tuesday). Started off thinking I would have to ease off the circuits, but it was fine. Two hard sessions; on Wednesday and on Saturday.

STG - being fit enough for some Trad 6/7 July (first weekend or even full day out since September last year!) and some DWS in August
LTG - lose 3Kg (from 88 - 85Kg) and get in bouldering shape for trips to N'umberland in September and Font in October

87.5Kg (Hmm)

M - Foundry @ lunch. Foot on campssuing and 5 x 8 pull ups on different holds (mainly half crimp). Some tentative hangs on half crimp.
T - Back a bit sore.
W - Works evening. Circuit board. Warmed up then 6b, 7a, 7b/+. Then mostly working brown 7c+/8a. Some good links. Did all moves including awkward bit descending in corner.
T - 
F - Foundry @ lunch. Foot on campussing (more moves than Monday) then 3 circuits of new circuit on board. Pumped.
S - Works 2.5 hours! 1 hour doing some bumble bees at a steady pace and trying not to fall off onto back. Good to do some up problems. Then 1.5 hours on circuit board.  7a, 7b/+. Then 7c+/8a in two sections. Then 5 x 7a with trying to add on the 6b and failing half way. Hard session - knackered.
S - Bit of fitness ball stuff.

Next week I plan to do more of the same as well as some deadhanging as my fingers are starting to feel strong again. Need to do some ball work as totally slack on that last week. Also need to eat less cake 

[Luke Owens]

My main aim at the moment is to get on anything that is steep and powerful. Even if it means dropping the grade and getting an ego bashing in the process. Determinded to get better at a style I find hard!

M: Rest
T: Rest

W: Dinbren - Warmed up on a powerful F6c, did it first go.
Tried On-sighting a F6c+ with a really steep bouldery start - fell off then did the move quite easily. Really hot and greasy, should of saved it for better conditions. Will Redpoint it next time.

Got back on the F7b+ proj, adjusted and found better beta for first boulder problem but couldn't even do the upper section today - Felt really tired and couldn't do any powerful moves. Need to warm up properly next time.

T: Rest
F: Rest
S: Rest

S: Ty Newedd - Steep routes - On-sighted a F6b+ then went the wrong way on the on-sight of a F6c, worked some beta and got it 2nd RP. Very tricky and harder than most F6c's I've done.

Put the clips in on Black Wednesday awesome route, a very steep and technical F7a+, managed to work out the bottom crux and did all the moves in isolation, final move is a steep dyno. Felt boxed and couldn't link anything on it. Hopefully will feel easier when I'm fresh.

The steep route campaign continues!

[shark]

W. High Tor again. Muggy and very greasy. Backed off the 6c+ warm up. Followed M1. Had a top rope on the Roadrunner crux - felt as desperate as I rememebered. Partner suffering from hay fever. Glad to finish early

Having seen you'd been out and about new routing there, I did wonder whether when I heard someone calling their partner Simon on Wednesday if it might be you. I think you guys were probably abbing from the top as I was seconding the top of Robert Brown.

You probably heard the sneezing though - I was suffering so badly from the pollen by the end of the day!

Sam's eyes were streaming from hay fever. Rock was too greasy for anything hard that day. Major comedown after monday. What else did you get done?

[Dolly]

M
T Warmed up on the Wave then worked out a _circuit  on the board which was much more fun
W Gentle run along the front in Aberystwyth. First time since knackering my back. felt OK
T Half a sess on the wave at lunchtime then a really good shed session in the evening
F
S Shed. I did another circuit. Don't know what's getting into me
S Took the girls to the mini Climbing works.


Back was generally starting to feel better but then I bent forwards shaving this morning and it twinged again FFS

[Eddies]

T: Gym on lunch inc. Eddies' "Room Workout" in amongst a load of kettlebell and core stuff

Hi TTT... How did you find it, and what did you mix it in with?

[tommytwotone]

I found it...effective I think is the word. Woke up on Weds morning and could barely brush my teeth I was in so much pain!

Did a quick 500m row to warm up, then the room workout (though only 20 pushup / 10 pullup / 20kg barbell curls combos), then kettlebell diagonal lifts (i.e. off floor next to right foot with left hand, extend left arm diagonally up and left, repeat other side), kettlebell swings, kettlebell standing side bends then leg raises and crunches.

[shark]

Back was generally starting to feel better but then I bent forwards shaving this morning and it twinged again FFS

Glad you are on the mend

[Dolly]

Back was generally starting to feel better but then I bent forwards shaving this morning and it twinged again FFS

Glad you are on the mend

Cheers. I've got 3 circuits in the shed ! 2 of which I can't do if you fancy it ?

[AJM]

Sam's eyes were streaming from hay fever. Rock was too greasy for anything hard that day. Major comedown after monday. What else did you get done?

Nothing else there, bit of a mojo fail. One of those days. Psyche seems to be back now though so hopefully get up there again soon

[Muenchener]

STG: Anything from this list of Frankenjura classics
MTG (2013): Frankenjura VII onsight; Alpine multipitch VI; Welsh trad E2
   Redpoint UIAA VIII-, then 7a, then 5.12a. This should allow for a satisfying amount of Big Grade progression in a relatively short period of time
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

M: rest
T: Physio, knee exercises
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Heatwave: 35 degrees and humid. I have zero motivation for plastic at the moment anyway. Main agenda of the evening was a planning meeting for the München DAV North Wales Expedition. Also did a couple of easy routes and an hour's desultory bouldering.
T: Bike to work 20km
F:
S:
S: Wall, Boulderwelt. A couple of things on the "6B to 6C+" circuit go in a handful of goes each, but anything harder feels like the living end. I am not good lurching between blobs nor tbh do I see any reason why I need or want to be, it has little relevance to anything I might actually want to climb. Prefer the other local bouldering wall at Thalkirchen where tenacity on little crimps is rewarded.
   Bike to & from 20km because the physio says it's good for my knee

[webbo]

Mon. Back sore. Board session in evening which eases it. Just do an easier 16 problems and each ones mirror image.
Tue. Back less stiff first thing but stiffer through out the day.
Wed. Back crap.
Thu. back felt much easier. Board in evening, tried project from last week a few times but no joy. Linked a few harder starts and finishes to exsisting problems and repeated 2 problems that I've only done a couple of times.
Fri. Bike 1 hr.
Sat. Hungover go on board when I finally got moving. did project first go but then got steadly more pathetic. Turbo 1 hr.
Sun. Leeds wall managed a v6 and another thing that felt hard but didn't have a grade. Pretty good session.

i think my back problems were a result of the previous sundays bike ride, pleased it cleared up fairly quickly.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: Rehab elbow... Then decide.

M,T: Elbow excercises.
W: 5 mile road run - Interval session, speed and hill work - God I hate road running! (did manage to beat the dog in a sprint tho)
T: Climb @ The Works - Planned to go really easy, got bored.. Did wasps and yellows - gonna pay for that!
F: 9mile(ish) fell run - Burbage, millstone, lawrencefield, longshaw, froggatt way - Didn't eat enough beforehand and bonked about 7 or 8 miles in - staggered back to the van after falling in a bog
S: Bouldered @ The New Heely boulder with Butters and Lagers... It's actually quite good (if a little high sans pad)... The proximity to The Sheaf does however negate much of it's intrinsic training value (medicinal beer only used to aleviate elbow pain of course).
S: Fucking agony... Stupid fucking elbow's supposed to be on the mend - Bit the bullet and and am now seeing a propper physio (read: masochist Aussie).

Good to run. Running on the road sucks. Good to climb. Climbing Hurts. Good to run. Running without eating enough really hurts. Good to climb. The heely boulder hurts my elbow. Fuck it! Gonna drink beer and do some gardening!

Bollocks to it all - hopefully I can get the elbow sorted before the July Euro trip. Seriously considering some easy alpine climbing and snow plods 

[Ti_pin_man]

Finally some progress.

M - 3 hours at Bowles rock getting my a$$ kicked for the first time in ages by real rock, long over due. 
T - cycled 20 miles
W - cycled 20 miles
T - 3 hours indoors, managed to complete five routes, various grades, that I hadnt completed last week.
Nothing else this week except my other halfs birthday - food and alcohol

Generally really pleased with ticking those indoor routes off and loved outside bouldering again even though we and the guy i climb with, both got a spanking.

Onwards and upwards.
Shut up and climb.